Bought my latest X5 on Monday (11/2004 4.4i). Got warm in Adelaide today, so rang "Adelaide Auto Air" and the dude was in here in 2 hours. Aircon now icy cold.


Also did the panoramic roof fix. Stupid rear tilt BS!!!

Replaced these:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e9487697fd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f348a0723d.jpg

Forgot the exact name, they are the anti roll bar links. If you hear a clunk every time you hit the tiniest bump these are the culprit.

For some immediate relief a dozen wraps of electrical tape on all four ends will keep you sane while parts are ordered and you have time to install. (I was surprised how effective it was! The clunk was gone. After a couple weeks it started to come back as the tape disintegrated but now the new parts are in!)

Pretty easy job. 4/10 difficulty. Needed one 6" wobble extension to get to the bottom nut. Most of the difficulty was holding the ball side from spinning as it wanted to pop off the wrench. I used my high power impact wrench and one nut was pretty rusted on it might more like 6-7 difficulty with ratchet wretch.

To move the roll bar a bit to install the new part I had my son use a 4' piece of 2x2 and a jack stand. (needed to lift about an inch to align it).

I lifted both fronts off the ground with a floor jack so there was no torsion on the bar.

Next up: the thrust bushings which are completely shot.


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They are sway bar links.

Thanks. Probably didn't need to quote my entre post to refresh my memory but I am glad to have that back in the brain.

I reinstalled the "chin" plastic airfoil that goes between bumper and skid plate. Been off for months while I got my oil leak fixed and engine bay scrubbed clean. I also replaced the foam sound absorber that goes on the skid plate as it was gross beyond words


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Sway bars are commonly called anti-roll bars, since their purpose is to reduce how much the car rolls in turns. "Sway bar" is just an abbreviation of "anti-sway bar."

Repaired the Driver side power folding mirror for the..... third time!
Finally think I got it. Thank god for spare parts.

These suckers can be pretty problematic at times.:rofl:

Just found my X5 has a digital TV tuner. Yay!

Replaced both motor mounts and CV boots. Only made sense as the axles had to come out anyhow to allow for enough room. On my 4.4 I remove the mount bolts from the top of the motor. This time I did everything from below. The drivers side mount of course was shot, passenger was still very tight, but dhanged it nonetheless.

Next week are the subframe bushings, just because I know eventually they will go out. No symptoms. Truck is smooth, and launches hard out the gate without much drama now. Prior I had a muted clunk-thus drivers mount.

2004 3.0L
Vanos got a rebuild yesterday, just seals as there is no strange sounds.

Did the single on my 99 M3 a few weeks ago, that is a lot harder due to retiming things.

Going to install some LED Foglight bulbs today and give it a good wash

put some Dr lube shudder fix in the gearbox,
looks like my torque converter is on its way out, as the shudder seems to have reduced
unless its just my imagination
I think I have a serious decision coming up.
recon TC and a recon gearbox (I don't see the point on putting a 150k miles tranny back onto a recon torque converter)
we shall see

Installed PCV kit on the wife's X.

Replaced windscreen washer pump.
Polished Mrs X5 headlights
Received my RH Front CV.
Ordered trans filter kit.
Ordered alternator belt tensioner.
Just have to buy a 36mm socket on the weekend as the one I ordered online turns out to be drop-shipped from china and wont arrive in time.

I bought mine from O'Reilly they stock the 12pt size needed for axle nut.

Not the strongest socket mine shows wear on the drive hole but it's done the job a few times.

Coincidentally the socket fits the oil filter cap as well.



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I got one for ~$10 from this eBay seller

factory.surplus on eBay

Not an impact socket but it worked for me :dunno:

A current one here

MM1/2DR 36MM12PT Socket,No 518966, Danaher Tool Ltd

Mike

I'm actually in shock... The socket arrived today.

Here's hoping it doesn't rain so I can get it over with.

Didn't rain. RH CV done.
E38 cleaned and advertised for sale :(
Mrs won't let me hoard BMWs.

Wasn't mine, but my mom's, she picked up an 03 3.0. Needs lots of love. I polished the headlights.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fce164e49b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc4eed114f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...327cc37d9a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2a589552e5.jpg


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I fixed squeaking idle pulley and tensioner, replaced new, broken T-stat and replaced rusted rad drain plug.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ff8dbd481b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9396f0ca59.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5ddd80728f.jpg


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Time to replace the Mrs? No?


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How many miles?

At the time 158k. I've already done the pulleys once before around 130 or so. Tstat failed right when I replaced it preventively.


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Did the drivers side inner and out CV boots today. The forum documentation was a huge help, started to try to remove the outer CV from the shaft but no success so I pulled the shaft and did the inner and outer.

Thankfully I had bought both on he advice of the DiY's! The whole chore took about 3 hours

HAHAHA... She drives an X5 too, so I'll keep her.

Ordered the parts to build a wireless charger for my new note 8 cellphone.

This will allow me to charge the phone by putting it in the lower center console storage area in a slide in clip.

Pulled belt tensioner off in anticipation of the new one arriving and noticed the water pump has a tiny amount of play... Ordered new water pump.

Installed a new set of 2.5 inch midrange speakers in the rear door of the X5. Man what a difference.

https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...m_campaign=pla

Learnt a $215 lesson while pulling out the fan.
WATCH OUT FOR COOLANT TANK RETURN NIPPLE AND HOSE.

They break really easily. :banghead:

Another 8000 miles, so it was time for an oil change along with a new FSR (the old one lasted 171,000 miles - not bad), rear diff service and fuel injector cleaning service. I'd never had the injector service done - skeptical about it since I use Shell gasoline exclusively, but was very impressed with the smoother idle and improved acceleration afterwards. All in all I got out of the dealership for less than two normal car payments ;)

2002 X5 3.0 331,100 miles
2014 428i 30,000 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - Under restoration

Since this is a recent purchased vehicle with 135K. This car is getting a standard maintenance refresh.
-just ordered front & Rear OEM Brake kit from ECS.Also upgrading to ECS SS braided line
kit.
- Suspension refresh kit researching between OEM, Lemforder or Meyle HD.
I am leaning towards Lemforder but would love to hear any pros and cons. thanks

A lot of the time Lem is OEM. I have no issues using Lem or Meyle HD stuff. I have done all 3 of my BMW's(Z4,M3,X5 complete suspension rebuilds) with a bit of mix of them. The quality on these brands are so close it really doesnt matter. Nice thing about FCP is a lifetime war and they list also who is the OEM most of the time

Thanks for the input. I am actually looking at the FCP special on the Lemforder 20 pc kit.

I put the bushings in the tension struts myself, $24 vs 115 each but a lot more labor if you dont have the tools to push the old out/new in

other than a few things like that nothing wrong with that kit

You're able to pull out that pusher fan with the bumper in place? :wow:
Everywhere I've read indicates that the bumper have to come out? :dunno:

Your daughter working on her trike with the manual close by is just precious! :thumbup:

That's not a pusher fan, that's the one that we have instead of a clutch fan.

This mornings job was trans filter and top up. Needed it too, there was probably 3.5 litres that came out and fairly dirty. It took 4.5ish to fill.
Drives heaps better.

Ruined my fuel economy thou... now at 22l/100kms. :yikes: :rofl:

You also have his' 'n' her's X5? Nice. Ours are both '01 black and white


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We also have his and hers X5's but the wife's is an e70. We needed the diesel fuel economy and the bigger interior is nice as well.

:thumbup:

Hers is a Sapphire Black(?) on black 06/03 diesel with sport suspension, seats, nav, and staggered 20's

And mine is Titanium Silver 11/04 4.4 with sport suspension, seats and not staggered 20's :(

Replaced valve body solenoids in the 4.4. Shifts great now. Also replaced exhaust flange gasket on the 4.8is. No more ticking and fumes. :)

Had lean codes 2187 and 2189 I couldn't chase down so brought to my tech. Had to replace drivers side valve cover cracked/leaking. Seems to run smoother and quieter now :)

Finally completed the look; installed an OEM front diffuser from a 4.6iS

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f5...psmtccq7xf.jpg

looks great!

Looks very good. What front flares are you running?

I got it off a local guy who was selling his x5 for parts actually.
but iirc, aren't they off from 3.0D Lemans?

But i like how they look :D

I unlocked my Test menu in my cluster.

Changed the oil Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 and Mann filter

After completing a 2200 mile round trip up to Indiana (half of it pulling a 5x8 U-Haul trailer with 2500# of granite slabs) I can see that my thermostat has been stuck open for quite some time. I sure paid the fuel mileage penalty ARGHHHH!

Torque app says about 188*F temp in cruise. Unlocked cluster test #7 shows about 84*C in around town with OAT of ~35*C.

Well thankfully it was not stuck closed! And I just changed it maybe 15K miles ago when I did all the hoses, belts and tensioners. I'm getting a Behr thermostat unit this time :thumbup:

Sure hate to be in those 210*F temps but the open loop fuel economy sucks!

Mike

I do too. I wish they were still available. :( I might have to try a set of aftermarket ones to see how they look/fit.

I installed a set of aftermarkets on the wife's e70 and was surprised at how good the quality was.

Just received a Wahler thermostat to replace the OEM that has been locked open for the past year. Expansion tank had a pin hole leak that dropped the coolant level enough to stick the thermostat open, but didn't get a chance to change it out. Hope to do this tomorrow.

Last week changed out the rear driver side window regulator (second time) and door actuator.

Tomorrow, need to remove the driver side head light and reconnect the adjustment plate so the high beam and low beams are aiming tin the same direction again.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

It sure does. At least you discovered before winter! I drove my x5 5-6000 miles until it got cold enough outside the heater stopped working outside. Moronic temperature "gauge" that is effectively useless. (rounds up from 160 to 200F all the same reading)


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Yeah the number I see on the base of the new Behr thermostat is 105*C which converts to 221*F, not a happy old school number but I guess the engine engineers know what they are doing.

My 2007 E90 twin turbo runs at 240-250*F oil temp in summer Texas heat :wow: and that's normal without an oil cooler. I have the factory oil cooler parts to add it but just have been procrastinating on that project since the E53 is the daily driver.

I feel better knowing that I use synthetic ATF, driveline fluids and engine oils that have exceptionally good heat resistance degradation :dunno:

Mike

Speaking of thermostats... I still have the "modified" OEM one sitting on the shelf that is sold by Logic 7. Need to install that in my N62. Supposed to keep the engine running around 190 degrees I think without tripping anything. Even if I lose 1MPG... I'll be much happier running sub 200 degree temps.

Swapped out the failed full open thermostat for the new Behr unit today.

Kinda a PITA without removing the fan but my fan wrenches were under the spare and I hate tearing into there. The lower rear bolt on the thermostat was the biggest challenge but I prevailed.

Now running in the 109*C range and opening to cooling down to about 103*C. Sure felt a lot better to me knowing she was in the 85-92*C range :dunno:

Factory dash gauge still indicating straight up 12 o'clock.

Sure hope this change recovers the 20% lost fuel economy, will know soon. I'm not throwing out the other thermostat just yet ;)

Mike

Stored "Bumbo" cuz the Mechanical fan crapped out... will go with electric now( waiting to be delivered)

1-1/4" wrench on the fan nut and a swift hit with a hammer toward the car's left side will take the fan off with less effort than the official fan wrench

I'll try to remember that one Andrew!

Thanks. :thumbup:

Mike

This has always worked for me in the past. As has a thin monkey wrench.

I'll get a chance to compare it to the official tool soon though as I found one on Houston CL for $20 and picked it up at that price.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I prefer impact tools when possible. I find much less opportunity to strip parts and smash fingers. I think the official tool might be nice once the part has been loosened once. I've had my fan off 3-4 times and the first time was twice as hard as the rest.

For other people wondering should they bother with fan removal for the likes of thermostat replace job: absolutely. It makes it twice as easy overall and 1/4 the difficulty of squeezing through the small space left. Once you "knock" the fan off once you'll be surprised how easy that was and how much easier anything else is behind/near the fan.

Pulled the MID to look into why three of the buttons only worked when the unit was cold. After ~10mins of driving, the three centre buttons would stop working. Couldn't call up CDs 4-6, use timers or check distance or speed etc. :(

Couldn't see anything obvious but I removed and re-seated the button connector cable (wide grey ribbon cable with black connector) that runs from the front PCB to the main PCB. Put it all back together and 24 hours later it's still all working correctly, regardless of run time or temps.

$0 fix - what I call a win! :thumbup:

(still need to address a couple of missing columns of pixels but they don't actually make the display unreadable - yet. You can see the missing columns in this video - https://youtu.be/hjuf_vDIWC4).

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Replaced all washer pumps:
front windshield
rear windshield
head lamp

Attachment 72389



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

Now seeing 109*C regularly in Test #7 display and I want my old (stuck open) thermostat back.

I'm recording no appreciable improvement in fuel economy vs the ~85*C operating temps! :wow:

Thanks BMW engineering :confused:

I'd rather have the 20*C cooler temps for the same fuel economy!!!!

Mike

I installed a new ignition switch and seeing as it was the factory switch with over 200k miles on it not to bad lasting wise I guess.

I thought my battery was the problem with it not cranking sometimes and then cranking after trying again. Figuring the steering wheel moving during its auto adjust routine was pulling the volts down to low. Turns out the switch was on the way out. My e46 did this before which clicked in my mind after I replaced the battery :)

Battery was definitely weak but one it was ruled out the switch was obvious. At least its super easy to install on bmw's.

Pulled my screen, and re-seated the ribbon cables. Now it's not yellow (or completely blank)

Also broke the LHF door handle carrier... Knew it was on it's way out since I bought the car, but didn't bother buying a spare yet. :rolleyes:

don't' replace your door handle carrier; almost certainly it broke in such a way that it's a relatively easy repair: Yanking Door Open Any Ideas? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

scroll to post #20, where i detail how to repair with a piece of 16ga spring steel.

It's a design defect that causes these to break; rather than disengage the lock mechanism when the door is locked, bmw chose to 'block' the mechanism; sadly that little blocking arm gets stuck in gummy residue over time and the door stays locked when all indications are it is unlocked. The user does what any user would; pull harder; and they break the hinge on the pot metal bracket.

If you ever notice a 'click' slightly delayed after you unlock your door, that's the signal that the locking bar is 'taking its sweet time' to move to the unlocked position. If you ever pulled and it didn't open but a second pull worked, also a good chance this is why; 100x more likely when ambient temperature is cold; owners from cold climate used to their door seals icing up will assume that is what happened and pull really hard, breaking the hinge.

Fortunately the way the hinge is designed makes it relatively easy to repair; unfortunately the videos are no longer hosted by tapatalk but the pictures are there; i think i used a drill bit to make a little more room but with relative simplicity i wrapped a few wraps of steel wire around the hinge pin where the hinge broke. Not only was it a free repair, it's many times stronger than the original part because not only steel, it's flexible so not brittle.

PM me I can probably find my original unit, i could send it to you you could perform the fix and have a working unit before you take the door apart (just in case of the 1% chance it was something else that broke). It was a little tedious to get the stiff metal wire bent around in circles while holding the hinge together, it would be easier to perform the repair with a second set of helper hands, also there are spring-steel cable-straps that would probably work in mere seconds, i just didn't want to take the chance that i would have to re-do the tear-down of the door in case it moved or something.

That seems entirely too hot. IIRC my replacement t-stat opens about 90C and keeps the coolant about that temp. In my case when mine was stuck 'sorta open' my coolant temp never got to even 80C if the ambient temp was below about 40F, and not even 60C if ambient was below freezing.

Do you have an IR thermometer etc to get a reality check on your coolant temp (measure the temp of the hose), i'm wondering if your temp sensor is off (way off) and '109' actually is 90. Otherwise, it would seem the replacement is 'stuck shut' at least opening way too late.

Cheers, I've already ordered one so I'll probably put it aside and fix the original when the new one comes.
Don't really want to pull the door trim off more than once if it turns out to be something different.

There has to be a cure for this but I must be wording my search wrong...

http://i.imgur.com/0YLQcDYm.jpg

Are those spots under the top sheet of the screen? It looks as if some moisture got inside the display. I had a laptop have a similar problem. I disassembled the screen and washed each layer of plastic (about six) with Windex then reassembled. Fixed good as new. Do they move or change depending on conditions?


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It's air bubbles I think. They don't move. That's the Mrs X5, mine has 3 bubbles.

That's what mine looked like when I replaced it with the aftermarket radio.

I figured the previous owners or passengers tried to use it as a "touch" screen not realizing how it works :)

Yeah, not going aftermarket... Have 2 of these things! And can't be bothered going through all the BS you have so far.

With nav its not what I would call plug and play for sure since you have to run that harness to the back which was NOT fun to do.

Without nav its plug and play.

I was just mentioning it along the lines of that's what happened to my factory one.

The screen is replaceable but I didn't want to put more money in the factory stuff when the factory Bluetooth was bad when I bought my x5 and the replacement Bluetooth module I bought off ebay started acting up shortly after getting it. Since I couldn't buy "new" parts I felt putting more money in used parts wasn't a good move in the long run.

But if your going to keep the factory stuff Id replace it. The spots would drive me nuts :)

Mrs has Nav, I don't, but I have digital TV and my radio is still in the back, so don't really want to replace either. Also Torque Pro wont talk to either of our DMEs so live stats are not possible (via 2 different ELM327s and a wired k-d can, that can talk to all modules. NCS-Expert works fine, Navcoder is a pain but mostly works, BMW scanner 1.4.0 works....).

BT IS an issue, but nothing a grom or bt aux couldn't fix, if we got desperate.


At the end of the day, these vehicles aren't worth putting another $600+ into just to get BT running. It's not going to increase their resale value. Just ask my E38. :/
I was hoping there might an inexpensive way to fix this, but if not, oh well

Weird I figured torque pro would work with it. I own it but haven't got around to trying it. I think I'll go install it on the stereo to see if it works on mine or not.

Hmm seems the stereo came with torque on it so didn't have to install anything. I plugged in my obd Bluetooth adapter and it just worked.

I reduced the pic size to make it fast to upload but it got kind grainy looking. The gauges actually look real on the screen and that way too on the pics before I shrunk them.

Now that's not saying it wont work with yours but it worked with mine. I know there was an issue with some Bluetooth adapters and torque. My stepdad ran into that when he bought a Bluetooth to try with his and it wouldn't connect with the ecm. Mine works on his car but the one he bought wouldn't. I also seem to remember that being an issue on bimmerfest when people were buying them.

I think it depends on what condition an X5 is in and what other updating or mods have been do as to whether on not an aftermarket system will increase the value closer to the max sellers are getting. In addition, it can be done for under $500. Years ago I installed a Mediabridge that requires running wires from front to back. While I haven't done the install as yet (going to make the buy this weekend). Based on that install I don't think I will need to gut the interior to do so. I use the navigation. The Dallas area is growing and changing rapidly, lots of detours and road closures. There is no source for an updated navigation DVD with OE system. With Mediabridge some of the other apps that can only be used on a phone or tablet will work but only audio. In this area any use of a phone etc must be hands free. Because of the performance upgrades I have done I am really looking forward to having the torque app on the screen much of the time. I purchased my X5 new. I like to stay state of the art and in most cases have been able to do so. If that weren't possible I would have purchased an X5M several years ago. I can see where some of owners would not want to make the investment but this is some of the rational that some of us think the upgrade is a good value. It would be nice if there was a source for a heads up display and launch control.

Under $500 in the US maybe, not here... Not if you want some semblance of quality, anyway.
And as for what the cars are worth, Last year the Mrs bought her 06/03 3.0d for $12k (sport everything)
A month ago I bought my 11/04 4.4 for $8k (sport everything).
I could've bought an 03 for closer to $6k.

To spend $700+ each on them, and still lose some functionality makes no sense at this stage.

We also can't use phones here, unless they're in a cradle.... So $20 fixes that problem, and Google is pretty much as up-to-date as you can get with maps.

Don't get me wrong, we love our X5s and BMWs in general (look at my sig for the money-pits I've owned), but there's better things to spend our money on. BMWs are just one of my hobbies. Home Automation isn't cheap :D

BTW, Australia had totally different rules for ODB2... I might find a working BT adapter one day, but that's still not going to reset my fuel economy or clock :D

The aftermarket radio can "hopefully" with the module I ordered. Time will tell on that. Im TOOOOTALLY not one of those that tries to talk someone into doing what I do or whatever so if you love the factory radio, like it or just like using stuff with it Im ALL for it.

I just wanted to add this bit on cost wise if you decide later or for others in countries with high tax on stuff. The unit is under $300 if you catch it on sale and that company will make the value of the box to whatever you want to keep from paying customs according to what I read on their site. I think mine was valued at $40 or something on the label. I didn't ask them to its just what it had on it.

But again I love factory normally and wouldn't of swapped out but the cost of the factory stuff and it being so old and having to buy used was wearing on me is why I switched. I really wanted to stay with the factory but I added up the cost of another Bluetooth module at around $100 or so and $125 for a new screen and the worry about it draining my battery if the next used Bluetooth module bellied up again and it just wasn't worth staying factory for me. But that's just me and why I changed it out. I just wanted to drive it when I bought it. But now Ive gone mod happy since I gave in on the radio swap.

As with anything there is a cost/benefit ratio to adding an aftermarket system to our X5's. I don't think it will affect value much to most buyers, negatively or positively. Done right though and it will be a definitely selling point to some buyers. Of course done wrong and it will be a detractor.

My cost/benefit is always based on the enjoyment factor. Up front though, I'm an audiophile so I value tunability and sound quality. For this reason I've always thought doing an aftermarket system (head unit, amps, etc) was a worth while investment in my vehicles. I can't wait to do a full setup on my 4.8is like I did on the 4.4i. I will be gutting the entire vehicle... maybe even pull the dash out so I can have it leather wrapped. To each their own right. ;)

Were it mine I would take it apart and see if the front can come off. Usually it's just taped on or has a metal frame with a few screws. Worst case you wreck the LCD panel and need to replace the whole thing. If you are mentally prepared for that then likely you will be successful in taking off the protective layer and clean it


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Yeah, considering both ours have it, and nearly every single car we looked at when we were buying had at least 1 "bubble", I thought it'd be a more common problem and there would be a fix on the net. Oh well.

The fix is to replace the LCD. I know there are quite a few threads on here showing the DIY. I believe you can buy the Sharp screen on ebay.

Here's a 20+ page thread on LCD replacement.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...v-monitor.html

heard a Knocking sound on Bank 1 while i was cruising at 50km/h stopped called a tow truck and sent it to my Indy..... :(

FYI- We need to get back to using this thread as intended rather than post and resolve problems. What did you do to / for your eE53 today?

Yeah, sorry...
Went on a drive out the bush then washed 2 E53s and the E38.
Beer o'clock.

I like your repair with the steel wire,
I think that will hold up longer than most cable straps.
It must have been tedious to thread the wire around?
Did you just use pliers?
Could you re-upload your videos to youtube or something?

Your fix deserves its own thread...:bow:

Brake fluid flush today.
and been having the mrs airbag driver stage 2 code .. had to send it in to my indy.
what sucks about it is that it appeared after I sent it in to the dealership for the recall for driver side airbag. Never had any problems prior to sending it in and having the recall service done. They wanted me to pay to look into it and if it was because of the recall that caused the light, they would waive the fee.
Rather send it to my indy.

See my new thread: What is/was broken on your E53 today?

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...7&share_type=t


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Had disastrous time a few days ago with engine fail safe mode, limp home mode, could not reverse out of a slight incline driveway, stalling, rough idle etc on my bunky 4.4....

Was going to have it towed but after it cooled down and started telling me about an emissions error I got it home...seriously thought about parting it out....

Found an ex BMW mechanic willing to read codes so I could start getting a budget for parts, eg replacing MAF, battery etc....

He had a look at it, reconnected O2 sensor displaced by dealer at service, replaced MAF sensor/wire? (for $8), fixed faulty side light, replaced transfer case oil, altered /recoded transmission behaviour (had noticed slam and bad shifts) and a few other maintenance items....

$400....

Drives like new... purrs along... very happy camper today...it's a keeper

Finally got around replacing these last weekend after neglecting them for months :(

1. A/C compressor, expansion valve and dryer insert.
2. Oil filter housing gasket (medium leak)
3. Valve cover gasket (small leak) and vanos seals
4. Passenger side CV axle (boot failure)

My 2004 X5 has only 85000 miles and hopefully I won't have to touch any of these again for a long time. Many thanks to the members who took their time to write DIY guides and how-tos.

I'd be having a conversation with the dealer round about now.

Finally changed the oil in my 4.4i sport. N62 owners, here's your video guide/ refresher:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wohUA-zs3OY

Man what marvelous skill you have pouring oil into the engine valve cover with no funnel and no mess. Impressive. Another precaution that I make when doing an oil change is that I check underneath for leaks before letting it down from the jacks or ramps.

I was think thinking the same thing. That motor would be covered in oil if I did that without a funnel.

One other thing I would of done differently is I would of removed the oil cap first before I drained the oil and on an inline 6 bmw the oil filter cap too.

I know most will think that's dumb but I have learned from years of working on cars to make sure that I can get fluids back into something before I drain anything out.

I have had this happen to me and others more times than I care to remember.

But Ive never seen a howto video on doing an oil change that did that so that's just me and not something I would of even expected to see.

Great video !

Thanks man, yeah should have used a funnel, some supplies went missing. Plenty of years pouring oil by eye - not recommended for everyone though

Good point! I actually do remove the oil cap during most changes, definitely on our other cars. For some reason I just went straight for the drain this time around. I also think letting some air in via the oil cap being removed helps drain the oil faster. Not sure if it actually does or not though.

I haven't noticed that much on 5 quart or so motors but when I change the oil on my diesels and I'm draining 5 to 10 gallons of oil I can tell a difference if the oil cap is off or not :)

So yes it does make it drain faster.

I suggest one at least compare this video with the threads in the HOW TO section that have been there for many years and then decide the best way a first timer should tackle the project.

FYI-this thread is dedicated to---What did you do to/for your E53 today?

Do to is oil change right? As in buying stuff for or repairs to or drove somewhere? Not being smart honestly making sure. I know the thread the other person started is what broke so this is what has changed?

If its what you bought for it then I bought a blendmount billet aluminum mirror mount for my valentine 1 I just got to go in my X5 today.

Also ordered the android software to control the radar detector on the X5's car stereo via Bluetooth. So I will have the huge 7 inch screen showing range to target (cop with radar gun) and its location (in front of me or behind). Also makes entries on a map so it will show in the future where radar was picked up before and allows locking out bad spots via gps/map to avoid having false alarms again.

Supposed to be semi hidden with it being tightly under the rear view mirror and the power wires going into the headliner where the homelink stuff is located at.

Installed oem rain visors and Rola cross bars. Have a Thule box going on later for road trips.

https://preview.ibb.co/nf5kGG/IMG_9626.jpg

Nice ZHP sedan. I also like the OE rain/wind deflectors. I have a set here I need to install but it's missing the driver's front. :(

Example--changed the oil and filter after X miles. Used X brand oil. Another example-- see post 8700.

Thanks, 235k on the ZHP and still chugging along. I'm not sure I can get that mileage out of the N62!

I got the visors from ecstuning, $85 shipped for the set. Not sure if you can buy individual pieces though. I like them a lot, esp here in rainy Seattle!

Are these the micro edge that goes in the window track or glue on ones? I have the micro edge on all my other non bmw vehicles and love them over the glue on type. But I was worried the micro edge wouldn't work out so hot with bmw's window regulator issues.

Yes, the oem ones go into the window channel, the ebay ones are stick on. I haven't seen any issues yet, as long as you seat them correctly they aren't really in the way of the window closing.

Drove it home!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...c06c2a3a_b.jpgIMG_0804 by Al, on Flickr

I took a co-pilot for a spin on my x5 today..

Notice I said ON.

He was upset with how long we had to wait in line for the food it seems.

You know I just noticed I have dash speakers. I didn't know I had dash speakers.

I know I had the tweeter post things on the doors but I didn't know I had dash speakers.

That's adorable


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GEICO Insurance: "Always watching you." :rofl:

Great catch


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I have geico insurance too :)

I should of put my insurance card on the dash when shooting the pic !

About to sell my Baby https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...429331ec35.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...df48acbd24.jpg


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Estoril X53 nice ride! What will your new vehicle be?

Changed out the pressure regulator valves in the valve covers today:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij1j9Xe9nR8

Installed yellow 55w fog light bulbs, not very happy with them.. Went out and took some photos of my 3.0 in the beautiful woods of Washington.

Finally changed my LHF door handle carrier. Not worth fixing the old one coz it is Taiwanese crap like the new one.

Nothing in mind yet still need to sell her but im contemplating [emoji31] i did too much with her and she’s attached to me


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Finished bypassing the factory DSP amp and installing a Kenwood double din. The results were better than expected! Now onto the rear end rebuild..

idler bearings
 

Thought would check for dry bearings on all the idlers and tensioners. All dry, main source of a whizzing sound from the engine. Disappointing that they overmold the bearings and make you buy expensive parts rather than press in a cheap bearing. Will mail order some replacements, but decided to go DIY and repack the bearings from some short term relieve.

oil pressure gauge
 

Fitted an Instalube system to my 2002 4.4, but oil pressure light has packed up, so have fitted an oil pressure gauge, well pleased.

How long have you had it? I just got my estoril 4.8is a week ago. I think we're going to have it for a long time. It's only got 83K miles on it.

[QUOTE=amancuso;1118230]How long have you had it? I just got my estoril 4.8is a week ago. I think we're going to have it for a long time. It's only got 83K miles on it.[/QUOTE

I have her now for 4 years with a smile on my face every time i drive her.


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[QUOTE=estorilx53;1118247]+1 :thumbup:

I have the same feeling with my x5. Sport '01 black/black. I bought via auction through my brother in law and I call him about every 6 months to tell him I love my car.

It has only cost me about $40/mo for repairs for 30 months and that is just amazing to me. I've had to replace all four rotors and pads, cam shaft sensor, DISA which I modded for $75 vs replace for $225, thermostat, refurbished my own alternator for $20, and repaired my door handle for free. I paid for my car in cash (literal stack of $100s) so with no payments I figured out the other month that my gas is effectively free so the 16-17mpg average doesn't bother me a bit!


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Replaced the expansion tank (cracked) and automatic transmission thermostat today. Went really smoothly considering everything was original. I wonder what the next cooling system failure will be?

At 146k, only things replaced have been:
- Thermostat (~3 years ago)
- Expansion tank
- Automatic Transmission Thermostat (since they like to shatter when replacing the expansion tank)

Those are the key words!

The only biggie not mentioned is the water pump.

In the non coolant system, I would deep cycle your fuel delivery. Wife's died about 130k miles. Multiply your average mpg by 5000 and by 7000 that's the expected life span of a fuel pump (gas I don't know about diesel)

To deep cycle fuel system, drive down to single digits to empty. It's the only way to confirm the fuel pump hasn't soft failed.

Both our cars' CPS died about 132k on the clock. If I had an original cps I would buy a replacement and keep it in the trunk. Random stall when coming to a stop is the key symptom.

seats and steering wheel
 

Got a great deal on sport seats and steering wheel, so I switched out my standard manual seats and steering wheel.

I also swapped the seat cushion and back between the drivers and passengers seat - feels like a new seat!

I'm quite amazed at how different the car feels now with the sports seat and wheel.

Standard seats and wheel made it feel quite "executive", but the sports gear really does what it says and makes it feel sportier.

Love this type of instant refresh


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Almost finished my rear suspension rebuild. Both upper arms, end links, ball joints, and integral links. One side is completely done, but my ball joint tool broke on the 2nd one. Everything's in but that. The first went so well. :(

Waited 2 weeks for the tool, guess I'll try a universal one tomorrow.. Or a new bolt for this one.. not sure. Need to get it done tomorrow though.

I ordered parts for the transmission service.

I feel your pain. Stripped three bolts from the bearing press doing two front bearings on mine and wife's car.

I would be willing to bet it's either 3/4 or 5/8 bolt. If not too long you may be able to find a suitable copy bolt at farm & fleet or home Depot. Fine pitch hardened bolt.

I ordered my replacement from Amazon. Did the threads strip on the nut or the rod or both? I was able to finish one job with the stripped thread by using washers to get to a clean portion of the rod but the 3/4 rod was completely toast when I was done so I've since upgraded to a 1" bolt.

Make sure to use plenty of grease on the threads.

reverse camera
 

I've had a reverse camera sitting around for years now; bought not long after the head unit upgrade.

Finally got around to installing it last week and also an external mic (that also was sitting around for ages).

Mic gives very clear calls, so happy with that. :thumbup:

Camera was not getting enough power at first, my initial crappy install! :confused:

So this week, I wired in a small relay and changed to a better power source - all great now! :woot:

The bolt on the press snapped while attempting to press out the 2nd joint. I was so disappointed, the first went out and in so easy.

The universal tool (along with 4wd kit) would be near impossible to get right. if a lift is available, and an extra hand or two, it may be possible. if your local store has the same kit I got, it won't clear the brake dust cover.

I ended up getting a couple grade 8 bolts. One snapped, but got the bearing out. 2nd got the bearing in. The thrust bearings on the press kit are definitely shot, lol. Pick up a bunch of washers if doing this as well.

All around, it's been a good 2 days.

New "forward and rearward" upper control arms(rear, both sides)
New ball joints.
Integral links.
Sway bar end links.
Ball joints.
All 4 rotors and fresh pads. (all of it was rouughhhh)
New BMW cam sensor.
(Still waiting for rear brake lines as mine are pretty corroded-no leaks, really wanted to drive it though!! So smooth now, and after driving for 40 mins I still have no SEL!)

I would like to see pic of the tool. I'm wondering if it could use the same upgrade as my bearing press tool. I upgraded my largest plates from 3/4 to 1" bolt tripling the capacity. I changed both rear and front bearing since the upgrade. I was a little surprised how much effort it was to remove the front bearing but it was nearly effortless to me I just had to hold the trigger on my impact wrench. I did have to hold the 15" crescent wrench on the back side and it was actually fighting me so the forces are out of this world. On the order of 40 tons!


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Replaced the center bearing for the rear driveshaft and now I have a vibration only at 25-30 mph when I'm heavy on the gas. Anyone have any idea what it could be? The flex disc looked fine with no cracking but I'm going to order one and install it anyways so it's new also.

Thanks.

According to my database stuff if you don't pre-load the center bearing installing it then it will cause vibrations.

Correct.

You should also check the guibo (flex disk). Really anytime I service a BMW driveshaft I replace the flex disk and the center support bearing together.

I have tried multiple times to move the center bearing and if i move it forward it gets worse.

How does the flex disk look? Sometimes it can be really difficult to see cracks. And lord help you if it was replaced with a URO part. In fact, that goes for the CSB as well. Which brand CSB did you install?

I'm pretty sure it was an MTC but I'd have to check my paper work when i get back home in a week. If those have a bad rep i can just order a different one and the flex disk and change both.

Soldered the IVM in the 4.4, idles like a kitten again.

Installed the Dynavin N6 into one of our E53's today...

My better half is happy to have Nav, BT, iPod etc again. Works very well and many thanks to JEFF at J and T for the answers to a couple of queries.

Very impressed at the system difference from the business cd to N6

Cheers

Congrats ! Nice having nav now I imagine !

Yes... sold our 2012 E70 and went back to an E53 so knew we would need to do it...

Works well.

Cheers

^When I have money again someday, I need an N6 in my life - I have a feeling the E53 will be around for at least 3-4 more years -

You might want to check out the android options too. Half the price.

But DSP for me - so nope - I don't want to hack anything or rewire the amp I can barely find time to do my brakes lol

Seicane that is android based has a DSP harness and according to them it is plug and play.

You don't have to hack anything or rewire with DSP.

Android ibus app, ibus adapter, and a $10 metra harness works fine as long as you keep the radio in the ibus loop. The android ibus app is so much more feature rich than the N6's OBC controls

There is a video in my thread about the stereo upgrade I did that shows how to use one wire from the harness and the antenna or amp wire from the radio to turn the dsp on. That plus the ibus adapter mentioned above solves it.

Changed front wheel bearings, cv axles, both giubos, and subframe bushings. Almost scary how smooth it handles again. Still have the rear wheel bearings to do, as well as both rear air bags. Discovered the drivers side has a slow leak while I was working on everything else. On the fence about arnott, or spring conversion...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...08a18e5ecb.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d14a25149a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2269a77667.jpg


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I did a rear bearing without any suspension or drive shaft disassembly. If memory serves I may have had to replace a dust shield but that might have been front.

The favorite tips:

1) cut a slot in the tip of the E torx bolts to remove/install from the outside. I had to break the bolt loose from under but 95% of the work was done with a flat blade bit in my Impact screw driver.

2) to break the bolts loose I used two wobble extensions. I think I first loosened the axle nut and pushed the cv in an inch or so to make room for the Etorx socket.

I'll be doing that bearing swap one more time as I've replaced 3/4 of wife's bearings and want to preemptive strike on that last one.


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Any noticeable improvement from the guibos?
 

Was there Any noticeable improvement from the guibos?

How difficult was that replacement?

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

A little hard to tell, since I was getting a good bit of vibration from my bad cv axles. Guess I should have waited to replace the giubos till after i drove it for awhile again. Decided to replace them, since they looked pretty stress-cracked, and I'm at 186k. Wasn't bad changing them, had to unbolt the carrier bearing from the body to allow the rear driveshaft to pull away enough to get the giubos in/out. Front one wasn't to bad either, just took a bit of prying and finagling to get it to slip out. Really quite easy, I'd say... just have to get it off the ground far enough to be able to work with them.


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I'll have to check my guibos
 

Thanks!

[QUOTE=mam4.6;1119754]A little hard to tell, since I was getting a good bit of vibration from my bad cv axles. Guess I should have waited to replace the giubos till after i drove it for awhile again. Decided to replace them, since they looked pretty stress-cracked, and I'm at 186k. Wasn't bad changing them, had to unbolt the carrier bearing from the body to allow the rear driveshaft to pull away enough to get the giubos in/out. Front one wasn't to bad either, just took a bit of prying and finagling to get it to slip out. Really quite easy, I'd say... just have to get it off the ground far enough to be able to work with them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Bought some struts, strut bearings and top strut mounts. Was going to put them in after work, but it can wait until tomorrow.

Preparing it to get a reman'd valve body and solenoids. Rolled the window down to clear some dew off the window to move it, and the damn thing won't roll up again. I guess it's time for clips and/or a regulator. Startin to really feel the e53 reliability curse, and it hasn't even been a month. Still love it regardless.

Just in case you have not been informed. Some years of X5s have a recall for airbag replacement. I had mine replaced recently.

Just checked for my 2004 4.8is. I guess the sport wheel is not a part of that recall. Says no open recalls.

That is interesting. They told me to bring mine in but when I got there they said I didn't need the part. (seems weird they didn't know based on Vin). They did fix my stuck oil change light though. The trick through the cluster didn't work.


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2 new Arnott bags in the rear today... only the drivers side was leaking, but figured I’d replace both.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...db172d4c70.jpg


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It's not terrible usually, but can be a real bear if you are unlucky like me. There's a thread about my total front/rear driveshaft servicing experience. Spoiler: It took me like 2 weeks. :rolleyes:

Got rear ended at a stop light :(. X5 won’t start. Towed and now we wait for insurance and diagnostic process.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Battery cable ends “explode” on impact, for lack of better words. Check your cables in the battery compartment...


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Also, I think there is a fuse built into the cable. Measure voltage at the jump terminal and at the starter


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Battery Safety Terminal exploded (as man4.6 said)

Any other visible damage? Any idea of the Impact speed? I'm curious what it takes to do this. Also did the battery disconnect completely?


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X was towed to a garage until it can be inspected/estimated. Damage to rear bumper hard to estimate as bumper cover is scratched buts seems to have rebounded. The tow hitch I installed years ago probably saved the rear end from crumpling as it seems to have transferred the impact to the frame. Thankfully not a high speed impact but can’t estimate. Guy who caused accident was able to drive his Ford Explorer away.

Some smoke came out from under hood but car still has power otherwise. Hazards came on immediately after impact so still getting power. I’ll post exact details on fix when I have them.

If the hazards came on automatically then the positive battery cable exploded its safety charge and will have to be replaced. That's why some things have power and some don't. Its designed to do that.

You cant crank the car and the car will not run. But windows, hazards and a few other things keep working.

Again by design.

So basically fix the cosmetic damage to the rear, replace the positive battery cable(or have a new end spliced on) and you will be good to go.

Pulled the dash out to replace the blower motor. The brushes are toast and theres a deep 4-5mm groove worn into the commutator. Did the ignition switch too, as access is easy.

Anything else I should be looking to address while I have it apart?

WOW! :wow:

Talk about deep dives!

At how many miles were the brushes so worn?

Thanks,

Mike

Nice work! Have the dash wrapped in leather by a competent upholstery shop. ;)

The upgrade in luxury feel is immense. That's my plan should I ever have to take out my dash. The wife's E70 is nappa leather wrapped on the dash/cluster pod and it is just so nice, I must have it.

Do everything possible on replacement to avoid squeaks! Maybe clean all the rubber seals with window cleaner to give them a fresh "bite" so they won't slip and squeak.


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:wow: You're in PA, whereabouts?

Washed, waxed and fully detailed.

Clean and lubricate the telescopic steering column gear racks. They become slow and squeaky at about 250,000 miles :D

2002 X5 3.0 Auto 333,700 miles
2014 428i Auto 30,300 miles

2004 325i Auto sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i Auto sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird Under restoration

About 168k.

Noted. Also planning to line the flat areas with GTMat (dynamat clone)

Lehigh Valley area.

Noted. White lithium grease Ok? Like the squirty kind in a can, with a red straw.

Should work fine as long as it's safe for plastics.

I drove it :)
after 2 weeks of driving my dads car I'm finally (just for one week though) driving the beast :)
2 weeks of being ignored and the car , on the first key roared into life , :):):)
much different than my dads car
just to fill you in briefly. my dad passed 4 years ago , and left a Toyota avensis 2.0 in the garage with 36k on the clock , 1/2 the amount to fill in $$ and 2X the fuel consumption, this car has been sat in the garage for 4 years, lovely car, but nothing compared to the e53 :)
so as a treat I gave the car a wash , a vacuum, and a polish :)
oh happy days :)

Cool not far then. [emoji1303]


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You should come to the e53 gathering in Hamilton NJ on 11/25.


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That was my favorite update this week.

Replaced the following Maintenance Items:
NGK Iridium plugs
Lemforder - Front control arms With Meyle HD bushings

Next items to attack:
H&R Sport Lowering coil Springs
Bilstein B6 Shocks & Strut Mounts
F&R Swaybars & bushings- Eichbach discontinued their product for2004 X5 any recommendation...

^You can still get the Eibach sways on Ebay. Not cheap though.

Ultra Racing also makes a number of chassis stiffening products for the E53. I have no experience with them on our X5's, but I did run a couple of their products on our 2013 Kia Optima SX and could tell the difference.

Was interested so just checked Ultra Racing website. I didn't find anything offered for a BMW.

Bcred you beat me to it UR does not have anything for 04 X5

Here are 3 products. They have more though. A quick ebay search turns them up as well.

Ultra Racing BMW X5 E53 4.4 1999-2006 Front Strut Brace TW2-1701

Ultra Racing BMW X5 E53 4.4 1999-2006 Front Lower Brace LA4-1702

Ultra Racing BMW X5 E53 4.4 1999-2006 Rear Lower Brace RL2-1704

I purchased the Eibach Anti-Roll kit from Amazon.de (your regular Amazon username and password work on there as well). I purchased for 422Euro (just under $500) and it included free shipping to the US!

Installed and they are great, I also lowered the vehicle significantly with coilovers and had to find longer sway bar endlinks. There is a company in Australia named SuperPro (they have US distributors as well), and they were perfect, extremely heavy duty, and well made.

Please message me directly if you have any questions, Amazon raised the price significantly from when I last purchased, almost $120 more.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dinan TB
Dinan Airbox
ordered Dinantronic stage 4

Special thanks to X53Jay4.8is, Bcredliner, Crystalworks in helping me find items( All BNIB) @ very generous price. Just need measurement of Dinan MAF Housing & piping and there goes my custom CAI build to Dinan Spec .
lots of pics and documentation once build is complete.

I’ll try and get you that diameter info today.


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Changed the oil and filter after 2,500 miles and two years. Pulled off the old p/s reservoir and hoses and replaced them with new OE parts. Leaking at the reservoir and hose to the cooler. Idles nice with new oil!
Pulled a pound of leaves from the right brake duct. Mice getting ready for winter.
Winter is coming so time to prepare for the little bastards.
Racked up 1,000 miles in the last few days due to travel. Loved the drive.

I HATE mice, rats, etc. Have major issues with them.

When they are covered and parked I slide a few mice traps touched with Peanut Butter under the front and rear of the car. My top hits have been 7 of the little bastards in two days. After that, nothing until spring. First cold snap sends them looking for a winter home. Like last night....
I sending out my secret weapon later...

Radiator, pullies, belts, fix vacuum hose off TB, front diff fluid change, transfercase fluid change.


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Degreased the underside of the engine looking to isolate an oil leak. I think I found it. Very small leaks at the power steering hose high pressure connectors. I'll give it a week or so to confirm. Hoping like hell it's not the pan gasket.

Cute dog but a bit small vs the rats I have :)

Mine weigh in at 10lbs plus. They killed a cat once.

This one was making a nest under my 323i at one time so I put dryer sheets and rat poison under the hood after cleaning out all the insulation they had ripped out of a storage building.

He came back moved the poison out of the way and built another nest.