Hi
even with the problems i love it.
Runs great for a diesel.
Just silly little problems.
fuel gauge stuck on quarter.someone has changed the O ring but
still a problem.

Audio system is dead,tuner and screen has been broken by
the first owner.

all dead pixels on cluster.
battery drained over night found radio was the cause.

One more,driver's seat module,cannot move seat steering and mirrors.

Got it cheap.
£1500.for a 2003 3.0d msport black,tiger claws,tints

This fix requires a lot more tape on the high cluster.... :rofl:

Get a use driver seat control panel it should fix the steering wheel


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Refinished a set of wheels. Mounting this week!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e61d314f2e.jpg

Looking good, itscoo2pyopants!

I would love to refinish my Style 131s.

This weekend's task was to put on four new tyres and new rear pads and rotors.

https://i.ibb.co/McCmQM9/20191207-133850.jpg

Rides (and stops!) very nicely... :thumbup:

I like the painted rotors nicer touch


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Yeah, I'm fussy like that. I masked off the rotor faces and hit the hub with a can of high-temp flat silver paint. Couple of coats holds the rust at bay - at least until a few layers of brake dust cover the hubs.. ;)

Rotors are from Italy (InterCar), pads and wear sensor are from Spain (Woking).

I bought mine like that. Powder coated and rotor face turned


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I would have too but there's a lot less options down here and international freight is out of the question on heavy items like rotors... :rolleyes:

Nice copy looked exactly like mine. I actually happenstanced into mine. I didn't want to wait for Amazon shipping and got them from local parts at a bit of a premium so i could wrap in a weekend. Wife got the unpainted rotors I got the special ones

Looks fantastic. I really have to do that to my 87's once I get everything else taken care of. It is like the crowning touch! :thumbup:

spacers
 

Hi
X5 looks great.

What size wheel spacers do you have.



Dave king

Not sure who your post was directed at daveking but if it was for me, my rear spacers are H&R DRA 25mm

spacers
 

yes it was for you.
thank you for your reply.

so its 25mm i will be getting.

thank you.

dave king

:thumbup: Moves Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 315/35ZR20 on style 87 wheels right to the edge of the flare.

SOLD the 4.4 in Australia.... and on the hunt for a truck and a 4.8is in Texas....

Been 3 years since repairing the OFHG still going strong! No leaks!

https://youtu.be/nYCgnUkDvJk

A little bragging here: after replacing my leaky transmission selector shaft a couple months ago, my X5 hasn't left a single drop of oil on the ground! I presently have two BMW's which are both north of 130K miles and NEITHER is currently leaking at all! My next 3 posts on this thread will now likely be due to sudden catastrophic gasket failures!

AM.

Replaced gasket between engine and transmission[the one with the coolant]
Replaced oil cooler block under the car.
Replaced mass air flow sensor.
Now the truck goes like a sports car...
Hooorrrray!

I replaced my alternator a couple weeks ago, and the car has been driving great. I did not put the radiator fan back in (the one driven by the engine, not the electric one) since it has been very cold here and I don't drive it much. Anyone done this before? Temp is solid. I will obviously replace it before towing or before it warms up, just curious if others do this regularly.

I ran my 3.0d like this for a while (in winter) when the viscous clutch shat the bed... ran fine, although I noticed the engine acoustic cover got hotter than normal, so watch that.

Unfortunately the "temp indicator" on the dash is useless to monitor the temp. did you use an actual method like OBC hidden menu? The mornonic dash indicator shows everything perfect from about 65 to 110C. I drove my car for months with a stick open thermostat because of the asinine design

But to answer your question as long as your electric fan is operational it's fine to run the car without the water pump fan in the winter months. I'm thinking of taking mine off vs the other typical Wisconsin option of block the radiator with cardboard.

Even with a new cold weather crankcase ventilator, I still have sludging issues. So the hotter the better at this time of year IMO. But no, I did not use the hidden menu. Havent figured that out yet. Long as it isnt past halfway it is still safe, so I don't really care how hot it is as long as it isn't going to break.

While there might be no problem without the mechanical fan installed, I would install it since at some point you will do so anyway. No reason to take any risk. The electric fan is meant to be a backup for overheating and AC. Using as the primary fan will accelerate wear to some degree. Electric fan is fairly expensive to replace and since the clutch fan is in good order I wouldn't take any risk of electric fan failure or overheating.

The needle stays at noon until way hotter than normal. If it ever moves past noon it's basically too late. It's not a helpful tool. It will go from ok to fill overheat in a second. It may as well be a simple red light.

Learn how to bring up the hidden menu and watch the actual temp. It should stay at about 90C.

I ran my e46 auto without the fan clutch for a few years before installing an electric fan. It never went over 210f using my obd adapter via bluetooth. I did lots of shorter trips so I like that the oil got to operating temp faster.

changed the oil went with castrol 5 /30 and hey no more turbo whistle

New MAF and airbox filter (plus pantyhose insert)

Original BMW MAF runs 1822.00 SAR [emoji2959][emoji2959] and this is from the actual supplier to make sure it's not made by Shitzalot inc.

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upon receiving the E53 4.8is, previous owner turned out to be not as honest and forthcoming as I thought they were. Very disappointed in that....:cussing:

Vehicle was hemorrhaging coolant.... turned out to be the water pump... so $1,200 later, 3 days after receiving the vehicle... new water pump, thermostat and belts. no leaks now

Sourced the OEM roof rack on Ebay for $70, cleaned and repainted it, then installed with fresh hardware... looks MUCH better this way.:strut:

Also, fresh Dinan air filter. Feels so nice:thumbup:

Got the Avant 4 on Cyber Monday, installation will be next

I agree they look better with the roof rails. I always thought the X5 looks "bald" when I see them deleted. I also bought a $50 set off fleaBay and they are over at the powdercoater this week for a quick aesthetic transformation when they get back. My original rails were looking rather faded at 15 years old.

You are going to love the Avant-4 when you get it up and running. :thumbup:

If you need some new install hardware, let me know, I bought extra... all pieces are in nice condition including the rubber fitments.

No charge, pay it forward

Thank you! I am hoping it is a simple remove fasteners and rails, then reinstall newly coated rails. Fingers crossed.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

If the hardware finds no home I would love to adopt


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TMV's old truck? I thought it was in pretty good condition the way it was presented while I was trying to convince the wife to adopt another 4.8is aero truck. :dunno: Maybe just a coincidence it failed after the sale?

I agree with Overboost. Never been a fan of these sans roof rails. :thumbup:

As I would like to think coincidence.... it was not. It was misrepresented in a few ways. I felt let down and a bit betrayed as I had countless conversations and face-times with previous owner.

What can ya do..?? :dunno:

Overall I am excited about it. Now I get to make it my own while on the way to bringing it back up to snuff. :luv:

Potentially some style 168 wheels... I love them on this car.

Sure! It's EAD2019

Enjoy. Happy Holidays!

[emoji1787]
If only someone would hack their site for this Nigerian prince I know....

I would have suggested something else but apparently it's not "PC" to use or even threaten to use artillery on people that piss you off.. (who knew?)[emoji849][emoji849][emoji849]

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tag'em and let nature take it's course.

Well, looks like driver side ballast took a shit.
Swapped bulbs and igniter left to right, nothing.

I'm guessing I have to take the bumper off to take the headlight out to get to ballast?

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Yeah [emoji3525]

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Not all the way off. You will have to remove all the screws and bolts but you should be able to slide it back a few inches and that will give you the room to pull the headlight out.

Hey snik! Haven't seen much of you on here. How are things?

Bumper needs to be loosened but not totally removed. Can't remember if you have cold weather package. If so, the headlight washers might necessitate removing the bumper.

Yeah, haven't had much to post, been mostly doing bike things. The woman drives it all the time. I drive the car, but she's in Germany with the kid, so I'm trying to get the M3 in the shop to do rod bearings and then catch up on a few X5 things. Then this happened with the light. I hope it's just the ballast and not some other stuff.



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Thanks mate. I snagged a used one off eBay real quick. So we'll see this weekend.

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You know my headlight washers don't work. I think someone wired up the hoses to run back to the windshield washer. So maybe having to pull the bumper is a good thing.

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Gave the White Witch a bath[emoji106]

It rained in the desert...[emoji2959]

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c515c9d9e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...804e284bff.jpg

That's exactly what I did when mine went out. A nice used one off fleaBay and loosened the bumper just enough to pull the light and replace the ballast. I think I was $30 all in...

Sweet. I paid a bit more. $60 I think. It was a used OEM. All the cheaper ones seemed to be knock offs of some sort.
Only issue is, the cover on the back of the headlight it cracked at the top screw and seems to let moisture into the headlight. I'm wondering now if maybe some moisture accumulation drained into the ballast that sits right below it and that's what ruined it.
I just washed the damn thing on Sunday and it wasn't until Monday morning on the way to work I realized the light wasn't working and was a tad foggy when I got home and was swapping bulbs and igniters.

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Put a battery in it.

7yrs out of the last one and it sits a lot in the summer along with a radio that seems to have a constant drain(aftermaket) but I think that is fixed now

Yeah mine was also used from a bone yard in Georgia. Still fine to this day. Water can definitely kill them.

Sweet. Hopefully that's all it is.

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Finally got my roof rails powdercoated. I bought a used set off fleaBay for $50 and had them coated for another $50. A nice $100 improvement. They had been looking so faded and old after 15 years.

Smoking deal OB, looks great! Wish I could find a coater that cheap here.

These are local boys on a NASCAR team. One is a spotter and one is a tire changer for (insert favorite team here) and since both of them only fly in on race day, they have started up a nice little business with a large prep booth and huge oven for coatings during the week. They could bake an entire chassis in there. :thumbup:

139k Fuel pump is failing. Ran into the same issue with a 2003 155k 530i.

Alternator failed. Noticing the red battery light lingered on just slightly longer.
The very next day it was on steadily. Took a short trip hoping the light would extinguish. The only thing that went out was everything and the car was going to stop. AAA brought me back.

Someone on here said that they usually fail around the same number of miles. I see a nice Bosch reman at 140 amps.

Oil consumption has recently increased so considering CVV replacement at the same time?

What will happen next is anyone's guess.

Will plan repair after a time for me in the warmer weather.

For now the X5 will remain on a tenderizer.

Brad

Nothing new to report except for the 2nd front transfer case gear replacement a couple of weeks ago. First one got weird due to incorrect front tires at time of purchase unbeknownst to me. This one just sort of died all at once. Currently at 114k miles.

Success. Swapped out that headlight ballast. Left headlight works again. I could not remove the bumper. The 2 main bolts holding on the bumper cover just frikin snip. Left side is lose, but they do don't come out. :(
I remove all the other screws and was able to pry the bumper enough to slip the headlight out.
The adaptive headlight module was looking a lot rougher, I think I'm gonna swap that too and see if that will make those work again.
Otherwise the headlight looks good. I was able to secure the back cover properly, hopefully that will keep moisture bout of it.

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With a few days off work, it was time for the annual wax'n'polish and since yesterday was warm but overcast I washed the car, chamoised it dry, applied a full coat of Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell and then used 303 on all the black items. Wow - it came up looking good.

Today it's raining... :rolleyes:

Here ya go...

https://www.odt.co.nz/sites/default/...?itok=X1HXORFG

Merry Christmas, OB... ;)

Now that made my day. :bustingup

I just drove 10 1/2 hours in the driving rain today down to the race shop in Atlanta and back in the E46. Normally a 4 hour drive each way. It looked about like that. I know what I will be washing tomorrow, man it got filthy. :(

Picked up my painted 4.8iS front bumper from the race shop today. Plans on assembling it and mounting it Christmas day. :thumbup:

Going to complete the look of your truck for sure. :thumbup: You have all the bits and bobs for the bumper? BMW really complicated the bumper setups on these with all kinds of fasteners, brackets, and plastic trimming. :rolleyes:

Yes sir. My current bumper already has all the washer nozzles, hoses, clips, fog light covers, new grilles, etc.

The only thing I am retrofitting that I did not already have is the cover with the lower aero valance and the front PDC sensors and harness. The donor bumper needed paint and was missing a couple of sensors and the harness was mangled. Took care of that weeks ago on fleaBay and pretested with programming. :thumbup:

Got the 4.8iS front bumper cover all assembled and installed today taking my time and cleaning everything as I went. Came out really nice with retrofitting the front PDC system. I still need to spend some more time on the computer tomorrow programming the speed/distance disabling of the PDC so the front sensors work as I am pulling in and out of parallel parking spots. Right now the PDC system is programmed as only active in reverse.

I just stumbled upon these. Thoughts?


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323982121504

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Drove it...
It's ugly and dirty but oh how she drives!
That 4.8 power is so useable.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d983e6a448.jpg

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I have something similar on mine, makes getting it aligned properly much easier.

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Yeah I've seen some other ones for twice the cost. This one I think is new to the market. As I searched for a cheaper alternative for a long time, then suddenly these popped up.

I just ordered the some febi camber arms. And lemförder lower ball joint and intergral link.
Once I swap those out. We'll see how long the febi lasts. Might try these ones next go around.

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Are u on air suspension, or coilovers

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BC Coil Overs.

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Nice. I wanna switch but I kinda don't. I want more low low, but the Bilstein HR combo rides fukin perfectly, and isn't that old.

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I'm about to do something stupid. Eyeballing an E65 B7. Pending PPI revealing more than I already know, might snatch it up.

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^ one of the few BMW's I would never buy. Makes the e53 look like a model of total reliability by comparison.

Hahahah. Yeah. But essentially the same engine and transmission, and much much heavier electronics. Can't be that bad. Lol.


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Sat in the car shaking my head, wondering why aftermarket window lifts are even available and why the PO wouldn't have bothered replacing the $5 plastic clip(s) that actually affix the glass to the lift?!

Did your clip break or did the nut just come loose? Wife had a problem where window got crooked and wouldn't go up. It was the nit got loose and fell into the door.


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Looks like PO replaced the lift with one from Amazon and didn't replace the cracked clip.

This is the 3rd window lift that I will have to replace that has been replaced by the PO.

The reason I know this is because he told me how great he was on maintenance items like the regulators.

Looks like PO replaced the lift with one from Amazon and didn't replace the cracked clip.

This is the 3rd window lift that I will have to replace that has been replaced by the PO.

The reason I know this is because he told me how great he was on maintenance items like the regulators.

Waiting to hear what the bill will be for the oil cooler gasket replacement from my mechanic while I am loading up the boxes of parts for brakes, rotors and front driveshafts and wondering if the X is really the vehicle for me.......

If what you have listed is all you have to throw at a new to you e53... Don't sweat it!

I got my 05 4.8iS Alpine White for 15k SAR (4k USD) and now my total (including purchase price) is 60k SAR (16k USD), but I routinely hit 200kph and drive it as hard as I can conditions permitting.

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If it makes you feel any better, I had three original regulators go bad within a 12-month period right around 110k miles. I only have BMW to blame.

If you're paying a mechanic to do most of your work, it's probably not the vehicle for you. The X takes a lot of maintenance. Parts are reasonable if you by OE and not BMW. You can get most parts from the same manufacturer that made them for BMW, but they won't have the roundel. Usually about 1/3 the cost. But, all those parts need to be installed. When you start throwing the cost of labor at it, it adds up fast.

If you're not going to do your own work and you have money to burn and you love the car, then keep it. Just my 2 cents.

This can be said with most cars. My Honda indy, on a per hour basis, charges on par with my BMW indy. That said, I would try to do the simple stuffs so I can save enough to pay my indy to do the more difficult jobs.

We have owned many bimmers. This is the first X and V8. Always had coupes and sedans with the trusty 6.

I used to do all of the work on our cars, now I have found an indy who is reasonable and a BMW master tech. He get's do to all of the BS work that is WAY easier to do with a lift. I still do the basics. Brakes, regulators, maintenance and the like. And I like to do it.

To be honest, I bought this X without a PPI because I am a sucker. I haven't done that before and I do regret it. I have spent more on it than what I had purchased it for. No one's fault but my own, but I do keep wondering if this car is just a lemon or if it was just totally neglected.:dunno:

I swear that every time I sit in it, it costs me money! :angryfire

[emoji1787]

I have found that "BMW" stands for Bleed My Wallet, but then again the e53 makes driving in the Middle East a lot more fun not to mention safer....
[emoji16][emoji16]


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Well sold the 4.4 back home and with the exchange rate bought a new lounge, TV and bed in DFW ...lol

Had a couple of tire kickers test drive the 4.8is back home... bit annoyed as one bloke gave it a flogging then said he just wanted to see the difference between a 4.4 vs a 4.8is....:angryfire :angryfire :angryfire

Had a couple of low ball offers from absolute tools... so might keep it and put it in storage....

Looking for another 4.8is locally but driving the roads in Dallas in an F150 and can't help noticing it would be pretty harsh with the Bilstein setup I had back home....

hmmm

E53 is nothing.
I have a client with a 91 Bentley Turbo R.
In the last year it's cost him $17 pr mile to drive it.
No shit!!!!

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What did I do to it today?Looked out the window and just looked at it covered in snow.

Temps in the 50's here and dry so off to run a few errands blow out the dust, and then a quick spray with detailed and back under the cover!

What I did this week:
Installed a filter for the back up camera - didn't work, took it out.
Redyed the center and driver's side arm rests.
Tried to chase down a clunk under the front end. It's intermittent. Haven't been able to identify it. Doesn't seem to be the usual culprits.
Painted a replacement driver's side mirror cover and installed it.
Started refinishing the last of five wheels. Four down, this one to go.
Got her washed.
Did some interior detailing.
Installed another music player on my Avin unit. The one that comes with it is kind of clunky. This one allows you more options and you can put album art in to go with the music. Spent a couple hours playing with it. I'm not sure I'm completely sold. Looking at other options.
Chased a couple problems in my new Avin head unit. It's going to be replaced under warranty.
Topped off the fluids.

Have you replaced your sway bar end links? My X had similar clunks that I just couldn't figure out and my links seemed good. I finally replaced them just because and poof! No more clunks...

self level suspension code has come off and on since I got the car a month ago... other than that it has been relatively functional.

Now it has really kicked the bucket. Ass end is high as can be and front end is low... too low as of late since the driver side seems to keep sinking. Warning code in cluster says "Max 35MPH" now as well. Haven't driven it in a week as my commute requires hwy driving.

Now I come home and see that the driver side front fender is basically resting on the tire, WTF!!! See pic..

Ordered the compressor repair kit and put that in today, but I won't even turn the car on until my "MyCarly" comes in the mail tomorrow so I can reset the code before turning the ignition and hope that the compressor repair is the root of the issue.

geeeeeeeeezzz

How many miles did you have on your links? These have about 66k.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

If it sounds like the car is tapping Morse code it’s almost surely the anti sway links. You can confirm by tightly wrapping the ends with stretchy tape like electrical tape the taps will go away.

Number of miles doesn’t matter too much mine are likely original at 180,000 miles. I replaced wife’s under 20,000 ago and starting to tap again.

They don't tap. The clunk is when braking to a stop. When the car comes to a stop and then settles back there's a clunk. Not every time, of course. That would make it easier to identify. :(

Sounds like front control arm bushes.... they clunk under braking.

Yes, that would be one of the usual culprits I referred to. I have poly control arm bushings and I went after them with a pry bar to see if I could get any movement. Couldn't.

Won't be those then, with poly in there. The OEM design can clunk once they tear but as the poly units don't have a cavity, they cannot really clunk. :dunno:

Yep. Me either. I just wish it was consistent.

There is a ball joint on the other side of the forward control arms also people have reported an inconsistent clunk from those very bushings when the bolt works itself loose or when the bolt was tightened before loading the springs.

I would first try to video the wheel while braking to see if there is motion. A pry bar is nothing compared to 5000# slamming into that bushing.

Then even if you can’t verify motion, with the Wheels on the ground loosing and torque those tension strut bushing bolts and for good measure the other side as well.

There are about six ball joints on each front wheel and any one can cause a chunk. Try to determine if any has broken its seal. Any sign of leaking oil and it’s likely the clunker

Everything is metal and connected so it can be very hard to locate the source since the sound can travel anywhere.

I get a clunk from changing from fed to reverse I’m pretty sure is from my rear suspension either the lower ball joint, the subframes or the diff bushing. I haven’t had time to find it but as least in my case it’s every time so I just need to get my remote camera down in there and look for it.

If this post isn't the same clunk, and since you have checked the usual places, if only for grins I would check under the hood and in the spare tire area to see if something is loose or even the console or door storage. Ya just never know.

Try to get it to reproduce from fed to reverse vs stop and settle.

The stopping is loading suspension like a spring and when you finally stop the spring releases the stored energy.

If that release moves a worn bushing or ball joint you’ll get a clunk. When I switch from rev to fed I get it every time so try to get it to clunk with some rev to fwd or opposite. Also with the wheels turned. The key to finding it is make it happen vs random.

Also as BC suggest it could be a loose item rolling around with the spare tire etc.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll put her up on ramps and go through and loosen and retorque everything. There is no spare in the rear right now as it is on the car while I refinish the last wheel left to refinish. Clunk is definitely from the front. I also can't find anything loose under the hood.

We'll see what happens after I retorque everything and get a good look at all the ball joints.

When all else fails it ends up being the bearing on the top of the strut tower.

I hope not. I replaced those the same time I did the suspension refresh about 67k miles ago. But sound does sort of seem to come from that area. Hard to pin down though.

odds in your favor not the rope bearing if already replaced. Very good chance it’s one of the dozen ball joints. Use a vice grip and grab each arm with a ball and twist and see if you find one that moves easier than others.

67k miles ago??? I would personally be doing a full refresh after 67k of driving.


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I watched water leak through the glove box area after a snow storm. This is most likely the passenger side cabin filter drain is clogged right? Hopefully I can find a DIY to fix this.

I washed and covered the X as it is now raining here! Soon the salt man will come and that will be it for a while...

Routine work
 

Found a small leak at the transfer case under my wife's X5. The actuator mounting surface is weeping. So I ordered two kits from ECSTuning, a rebuild kit for the actuator which includes the mating gasket and a new gear. Plus a fluid replacement kit with fluid, new plugs and sealing washers. Planning on doing the work as soon as the parts get here. Looking forward to seeing if ECS's shipping department has improved like I've heard. This work also requires resetting the adaptations in the control module so I will have to borrow the correct tool from my BMW tool source.

Sure glad I live in the desert, no salt, no moisture, like in the other posts. All we have is a lot of sun which is hard on the paint and exterior plastics like headlights, especially since I have to keep my cars outside.

AceEngineer :cool:

I was hoping I could get 100k miles out of the last refresh. Especially, when I did it, one had never been done. It had about 178,000 miles on it at that point with no refresh. When I did it, the only things in really bad shape were the front control arm bushings and the rear ball joints. Everything else was worn, but not ridiculously so. The shocks weren't even leaking, but I replaced all of them anyway.

Un-soldered the old battery from my 2nd key and soldered in a new battery. Reprogrammed the key (works great) and re-glued the key back together. Easy fix and saved a bunch of money!

Could also be a clogged or kinked sunroof hose. Pull off the passenger side A-pillar trim and have a look

aparently leaving the blinkers on will drain the battery sufficiently to get stranded in the middle of amsterdam :stickpoke

now I know :rolleyes:

getting a new android unit fitted soon, I find the sound quality from the front a bit crackly, anybode replaced the speakers? no experience with that whatsoever

Search is your friend.

Members, myself included, have done some awesome speaker upgrades and logged them in threads here.

I am thrilled with my choices which are listed here:

Speaker Upgrades
Dash Midrange: Memphis Audio PRX275 (4 Ohm)

Front A-Pillar Tweeter: JL Audio C2-075-ct (4 ohm)

Front Door Woofer: JL Audio C2-600 (4 ohm)

Rear Door Woofer: Dayton Audio RS150-4 6" (4 Ohm)

Rear Door Midrange Position: JL Audio C2-075-ct (4 ohm)

All these speakers work excellently in my non-DSP X5 with Eonon GA6166 head unit and it is by far the best sounding system of all the vehicles I own or have owned.

PS: I added a separate amp to drive a factory DSP subwoofer that was fitted to my vehicle in the factory position.

Mike

fantastic info! thanks! I'll have a look around too

IIRC, this is the thread where I got all my speaker upgrade info and I contributed there as well

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-speakers.html

Mike

Replaced the drivers side window regulator, new dashboard lights, replaced all interior lights with LED lights and restored the headlights.

Received my Depo LED side markers. Smoked and installed them.

Took off the rear wheels and removed the little pain in the ass rotating arm connected to the height sensor for the SLS, cleaned and lubricated both before install and it seems to have done the trick.

Only if the battery is worn out. That was exactly how I knew my battery was shot. It passed every test but could not run the flashers for 8 minutes.

A healthy battery will run for hours maybe 10.

Had someone back home looking to buy the X5..... and the car decided at the moment the test drive was completed to begin dripping coolant.....

Needless to say that although the issue was small the buyer walked away....

:banghead::banghead:

Today I hit a pavement cut 4"x12² with a pipe access in it...[emoji2959]

(LF) Dented rim, noise on downward wheel travel (clunk) and steering wheel now misaligned 2-3 degrees [emoji857]

(LR) screw through tire [emoji2955]

I am starting the hood cables, tri-annual fluid changes, air compressor shock mounts and door handle repair.

Not sure how much of the list will get done as work and surgery appointment starts Sunday[emoji849] Yeah time management!!

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Door.... Done
Hood cables(x3)... Done
Hood latches.... Done

Notice how the PO had "fixed" the latch before [emoji850]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8fbeb65bef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5a846d2047.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4bc4f66bbc.jpg

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Just the other day I had my X5 in Appleton and had a U-Haul 5x9 ramp trailer filled with residential demo materials for a dump run on Saturday morning.

Well, 8" of snow fell on Friday night and I was really sweating it as to whether Das Panzer was going to be able to push the trailer out of the driveway and pull it around on a bunch of the yet unplowed streets.

I was pleasantly surprised that it just pushed and pulled right through it all like it was nothing.

When I got on the scales eat the dump the entire rig weighed in at 7680# :wow:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9k...=w1176-h882-no

That 5x9 ramp trailer weighs in at 1200# so I think I may have had 1800# of demo load.

On the trip north from Dallas I had to nurse a slow leak in the right rear tire on the 2nd day of driving, which was a royal PITA. Thankfully I had a realtime video pressure monitoring system which allowed me to top up the air before pressure fell below 29psi.

Great pulling performance on the highway but she really loves to eat the gas :wow:

Mike

Got the rim back from being trued 500 SAR [emoji849]

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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d5aa25cb04.jpg

Transported (8) 16' long deck boards.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b3cb5b0fee.jpg

My son says it feels like driving a tank from inside (even more so when it's a big pipe).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3d0cb0d033.jpg

Sorry it's blurry I just zoomed in on the first photo: I have some 2x3 bolted down to my roof rack from moving a 70x50 inch window recently. Came in super handy today : I just screwed the first two boards down flat and then screwed the rest vertically to the previous board.

If I go a long distance I have steel angles I will bolt on to hold the 2x6 etc upright and I'll pound a shim in to make them amazingly tight.

A 3 hr drive is nothing with 4-5 12' 2x6.

Finally replaced the ailing battery in my 3.0d. The old battery was an 8-year old DIN85ZLMF (85AH, 780CCA) and I've replaced it with a new DIN88ZLMF (100AH, 860CCA).

https://i.ibb.co/b2hCRzn/20200118-112802.jpg

I was a bit worried that the extra height of the DIN88 would be an issue for the BST but it fits like a glove - there's even a small deviation in the spare tyre frame rolled edge to clear the BST terminal...

https://i.ibb.co/WxxLvZf/20200118-114452.jpg

Boy, does the big diesel engine fire up easily now! And no more DCS warning lamp (4x4) during cranking (as short as that period now is!). These cars sure love a good dose of voltage - they just purr with plenty of electrical power on hand. :thumbup:

8 years on a battery? :wow:
Since the X5 is relegated to 3rd car duty, I may give that a try on my ongoing 5yrs+ old battery :dunno:

:iagree: And on a diesel.....with glo-plugs. Wow!


I can remember my 1981 Bonneville with the 5.7L diesel (269,000 miles on that puppy) and its dual battery setup. One battery's positive cable went directly to the glo-plugs and the other battery's went to the starter. With a 22.5 to 1 compression ratio, there was a substantial current draw.



2002 X5 3.0 371,000 miles
2014 428i 66,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

Things were OK until I replaced my glow plugs and controller last winter - then it got a bit dodgy (since the glow plugs were working again!). ;)

It's the glow plug load that gave me the voltage drop that triggered the 4x4 light when I cranked it (in addition to the cranking load, of course!!).

All good now! :thumbup:

Installed my new California Car cover just in time for the snow, sleet, rain and 45 mph wind weekend. Old one lasted 5 years. Now I have three sleeping under covers.
Next up, cam sensor seals, oh what fun!

Cam sensor seal. Been there. Went to install cps and was short a seal. I made one by rolling up enough Teflon to make an o-ring.


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Replaced rear passenger ride height sensor. It did fix the rear right side from lifting high as can be like a dog taking a wee... however, that damned SLS inactive light came back on and I believe it is do to the front driver side bag having a slow leak....

when will it end...... :banghead:

Unfortunately the 4.8is has two seals one on the sensor and one on the hold down plate, which have two machine screws holding them in place. Welcome to multi-cam engines.
I am waiting for a few M5 projects to be completed before jumping into the engine bay

Had my front passenger side window go down like a cheerleader on prom night (in a dust storm) swapped the broken clips out and was done in under 20 minutes start to finish (almost) as I dropped the last screw "the one under the airbag badge" and heard it clatter inside the door card which is impossible but I still looked and then found it in the door pocket [emoji28].

Anyway.... best $13.00 USD spent was for a TACTIX compact drive set for door work!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...84bc4c5ea0.jpg

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DIYing is complete justification for buying new tools associated or unassociated with the job, paid for from labor savings.

True, now to just figure out how much shipping will cost all my stuff when I rotate back to the land of the big PX...[emoji2958]

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Changed the oil (Which was a Quart low over 5000 miles.) and realized a driveshaft bolt was missing. :wow:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2ef504c3_k.jpgUntitled by Al, on Flickr

Good catch!

Today I hit 216k and was doing 152kph at the time...[emoji28]

Love'm or hate'm e53 is the only way to go..[emoji106]

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Sold the beast.

WHAT a journey!

Bought, repaired and sold 3 E53's in an 18 month period. It was a steep learning curve going back to the E53's and their maintenance / cost after many years in E70's. Could not have survived without you guys here and the wealth of knowledge and advice :bow:

Thank you.

Going to take time out from the (near) weekly maintenance requirements / frustration and take a breather while I look for a low mile PROPERLY maintained replacement with the steering wheel on the other side of the car :driver: lol Will take my time to find the right one.

On the upside I can get parts a lot quicker now being in the US so downtime will be shorter....

thanks all and drive safe....

New addition to the toolbox. This set is from an off brand company but talk about helpful and prices out for $49 USD (GearWrench) passthrough pivoting head. So many tight spots and jobs this will definitely help with. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ee9d272523.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5666b75048.jpg

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had a new android unit fitted to the X5, glad I didn't try it myself because the PO apparently butchered the wiring loom and put a new amp in, do not have full functionality yet but much impoved sound and funcion now. Just needs some tidying up and the correct canbus unit to get the steering wheel buttons working. Also gettng a removable hitch installed.

Had an intermittent P0011 and P0155 but those have cleared now, just a whiff of coolant every now and then.... need to find that leak!

If it's slow enough the coolant will evaporate before it drips. Look at the radiator outlet temp sensor (lower hose) and look at the reservoir, down the side the seam will fail and also at the transmission heat exchanger

I'll have a look at those spots, thanks!

Definitely look at the transmission heat exchanger look at the small o-rings on the back and once you have eyes on them replace them no matter how they look.

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I just got a valvetronic rotation error and injector 6 high pressure with fault of power to ground?

1st WTH?

2nd Because of course...

[emoji2959][emoji1787]

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Who's leaking what? Can't find the original post.

Oops, sorry bad habit. I forget to add the quote on reply...

And yes I just did it again [emoji1787] but because I'm not sure how to add quotes from 2 separate posts






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Some days I really should wear a helmet [emoji848][emoji848]

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Styrofoam helmet as you are "special" too! :)

Huh? I always thought it was a cooler [emoji15][emoji1787]

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Replaced the crankshaft pulley.
Replaced the belt tensioner.

Just fixed a faulty oil filler cap that was causing such a horrific vacuum leak that the car would barely idle and of course not drive at all.


In the process of fixing that I found a bad check valve in my brake booster line... go figure, but hey, at least I found it before it became a major issue, right.



New check valve and hose assembly arrived today and will be installed tomorrow, when I get home from work, will be nice to have her back on the road!

Assembled the giant deck box to put in the driveway so my kids keep their outside toys outside of my garage so hopefully soon I can get the X back in the garage to do some maintenance!

good planning :)

Today's 1st item (again)[emoji857]

Yeah bank 2[emoji2959]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9cf60fad35.jpg

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Engine mounts, oil level sensor and oil and filter change. Took a lot less time than I planned so it looks like I get to watch the Super Bowl. All cleaned up with a couple hours to spare! :thumbup:

Pulleys, belts replaced and added the old set to the stack of "emergency" parts as I call them or as my wife says the hoarders pile.[emoji849]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...73b8c8982b.jpg

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Don’t let your wife talk to mine. My wife has no idea things in the garage can ever be pot in the trash.


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skied in the morning then move 2 cords of wood
 

you can get almost 1/2 cord of wood in a single load. now its time to
clean up my wood hauler

Ha! My wife always is always calling me a hoarder! I replaced my stock E46 sway bars with H&R sways on Saturday and just couldn't let the old ones go into the trash. I have a hoarding area next to the hot water heater she never sees.

There is probably a 12 step program for us. ;)

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attach...1&d=1580432595

Not my X5, but helped a friend with his new to him '04 4.4i. Changed all the coolant hoses, coolant, new brake fluid, oil change, fixed the power folding mirrors and put a new battery in.

Looks practically brand new, it only has 73k on it.

For some reason I read these posts as... everyone has something I need [emoji1787]

So glad I don't have the money for an Italian car...[emoji857]

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what headlights did you buy?

DIY Video: E53 X5 Rain Sensor Gel Pad Repair


How to replace the gel pad beneath the rain sensor in a BMW E53 X5. This should also work for E39, E46, and other similar generation BMW. The automatic windshield wiper's stop working when the gel pad bubbles up and the rain sensor cannot get an accurate reading. The bubbling is possibly caused by years of exposure to the sun.

Easy repair, minimal skill and tools required. Can be done in less than an hour and restores a very useful feature.

New OEM BMW Rain Sensor Gel Pad - $15

Plastic Pry Tools - $10

well I think something either got loose of got trapped in the fan behind the radiator, since it self destructed a few hundred meters after driving away from work yesterday. Complete fanshroud and all the fafblades are missing and are in little bits in the engine bay. The debris punctured the radiator in two spots as far as i can see.There was even a piece of plastic stuck in the hood lining.

Has anyone ever experienced this? The mechanic that took a look thought it might have been a sensor that got caught in the blades, seems like a design flaw? it's unlikely anything can fly in there from the road, road was clear when it happened. (sounded like I hit a big branch)

They can fly to pieces all by themselves - I've seen others mention it here. This can occur if the viscous clutch fails and seizes, causing the fan to run at full rpm all the time, over-stressing the fan blades over time. :yikes:

And like your event, it can cause carnage....

I recently replace my viscous clutch, when the bearing got noisy and it sounded very noisy.

hmmm ok, why is it in there to begin with? just to drive the fan?

Why is what there - the viscous clutch? Yeah, it controls the fan speed,, based on heat coming from the radiator. The hotter the air coming from the radiator, the faster the fan spins. This fluid-based, heat controlled clutch in the centre of the fan blades is known to give problems as they age but they are pretty easy to replace and aren't stupid expensive.

Some folk remove the viscous clutch and fan assembly and run an electric fan instead. I was tempted to do this but wanted a really well-sorted solution with a fully variable speed fan (not just a simple one or two speed arrangement) and the costs get silly really quickly when you go down this path. In the end I got a new OEM viscous clutch for around NZ$200 and so went with this.

I guess in your case, there's a LOT more to replace... :(

ahhh ok, thanks for the info, makes sense now. Maybe the fan self destructed from high RPM, though that seems strange. I gues a new radiator and shroud make this repair a bit costlier.... hope nothing else got shredded in the process!

When the viscous clutch goes bad and locks up as wpoll points out, and the fan will run at full speed and make a jet engine sound at higher RPMs. Did you hear any strange rotational noises at higher RPMs coming from the engine bay?

I really should replace mine, I'm sure it's original. :dunno:

well, when cold there was a bit of a wooshy noise from the engine for about a minute max before it went away, I figured it was a fan on high during startup but didn't know about the viscous clutch or it's explosive properties :)

The mechanic is ordering parts right now... lets see if I can eat a hot meal this month hahaha

That cold start noise sounds more like the secondary air pump, they do get loud when the wear. It usually runs for up to 90 seconds when started fully cooled overnight. The fan running at full speed would be loud all the time when running.

do secondary airpump explode too? Because i might have that changed then hahaha

Haha, no, you are safe there. They just end up failing and you will get a code for the SAP.

Many times clutch fan performance will degrade over time, not just fail all at once. When it loses significant cooling capability the electric pusher fan will run more. It is intended to be supplement cooling, like when the AC is on, not as a primary cooling source.

A decent electric fan can be set to start up based on radiator temp. They have a dial to change the setting where you choose. I have it set to come on just before the front electric pusher fan engages. Have been running the electric fan in place of the clutch fan for several years, very reliable. Cost is reasonable. I did have to replace the controller once but it was not expensive at all.

Replacing the clutch fan with an electric fan extends the life of the fan in front of the radiator and reduces heat sink as you can wire it to run after the key is removed, until the radiator reaches your setting where it turns off. Frees up a little HP/TQ but stating how much will start an argument. I have been using electric fans for decades on modded cars. Simple install, simple tools any DIYer will have. Doesn't cause any error codes. Not pitching electric fans, just informational. Clutch fans have been around over 50 years. They work fine and last a long time.

I would inspect the motor mounts.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

The only logical conclusion is the viscus clutch locking up. About once a year somebody on xo reports this happening.

Collateral damage often is the coolant reservoir or a dent in the hood, the fan shroud of course.

The viscous clutch is warmed from the coolant in the water pump.

Edit: seems it’s actually actuated from a bimetallic strip on the front of the fan clutch and heat wash from the radiator kicks on the fan when the waste heat from the radiator gets to a particular temp.

Even when warm you can stop the fan it should never lock up.

When cold you can (and I have) stipped the fan with my fingers.

Yeah, I thought that too, Andrew - until I had a viscous clutch fail on me and I looked into it more. Turns out they operate mostly from radiator airflow - the radiator heat causes changes in a small spring at the front of the viscous clutch. Very little heat from the water pump reaches this actuator spring.

Have a watch of this - I watched it and learnt a lot! :thumbup:

https://youtu.be/UwM4OqsLek4

Which replacement did you go with Wayne? Genuine BMW viscous clutch is quite pricey here at $255 from FCP Euro. :damn:

The M57TU in my 3.0d uses a slightly different unit than the one used on the M54... I got an OEM Hella unit from the UK - set me back about NZ$200 (USA$120) inc. shipping. Bargin!!

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/w7IAA...m4C/s-l500.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8MV-376-734...72.m2749.l2649

At that price, I jumped at it and abandoned any plans to go electric. :thumbup:

I thought the heat was conducted from the bolt going into the water pump but I guess it makes sense if the bimetal strip is on the front it will be airflow causing the effect.


https://youtu.be/RDuGsDUiXQw

The link above didn't work I found a good video showing the method.

Never too old or experienced to learn.

Sucked a piece of plastic bag onto RR rotor and melted it to pad/rotor. I will be scrubbing the rotor and see if some sanding of the pad will save it. [emoji2959]

Over here plastic bags are called Saudi birds and the travel in flocks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cd202439b0.jpg

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I would start with a utility knife blade. I see no reason you can’t scrape that off. Use some heat to help losen and of course sand the pad as well.

I've got safety razors and green scrubby pads and about 4 cans of brake cleaner (suspiciously hard to find here) plus a new reason to hate driving in the Middle East [emoji850]

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Maybe try the budget option and brake really hard a few times? (allthough budget is a bit of a trap in this case, you'll probably burn a gallon of fuel for this hehehe)

I talked to the mechanic yesterday, he was stumped about what could have happened. When I got the car he found several loose or missing screws in the radiator shroud and made sure it was all tight. He could see his repairs were still in place, just not much left of the shroud. Also, the clutch moves freely so not locked up at the moment. Fan blades missed the hoses and transmisson cooler so that's a plus!

Either way I'll have the clutch and fan replaced, don't really have time to figure out the electric fan route at the oment.

Why would I check the motor mounts?

Maybe try the budget option and brake really hard a few times? (allthough budget is a bit of a trap in this case, you'll probably burn a gallon of fuel for this hehehe)

I talked to the mechanic yesterday, he was stumped about what could have happened. When I got the car he found several loose or missing screws in the radiator shroud and made sure it was all tight. He could see his repairs were still in place, just not much left of the shroud. Also, the clutch moves freely so not locked up at the moment. Fan blades missed the hoses and transmisson cooler so that's a plus!

Either way I'll have the clutch and fan replaced, don't really have time to figure out the electric fan route at the oment.

Why would I check the motor mounts?

10 step fluid level check - ZF 6HP26
 

So today's mission was to check the fluid level in my ZF 6HP26...

As far as I know, it still has the factory fluid in there. The transmission has been performing pretty well for the (nearly) five years I've had the car and although I've been wanting to do a full fluid replacement on it, the war-stories I read from people performing fluid changes on high-mileage transmissions have me holding off. Mine is now at 235,000km.

Anywho, lately the transmission has been feeling a bit off when cold. Ok on the flat but if you load it on a hill when cold, it feeels like it might be slipping a bit and it vibrates a little. Sounds like low fluid pressure or level. It's fine once it's warmed up , so I figured it was worth the time and cost to do a quick level check. I intend to complete the full fluid/filter/pan gasket/jump seals/bridge seal/mechatronic sleeve service soon but I don't have the time for this right now - or the funds! I just know that the seals will be old, hard and not sealing propery....

There's aren't any real fluid leaks but there is a thin film of fluid residue around the pan gasket and around the mechatronic sleeve - not enought to be a worry on a 15 year old vehicle - yet.

Once the car was up on ramps and level, my process was: -

1. Removed transmission shield (the 3.0d has a large plastic shield over the transmission) - 10x 8mm screws.

2. Cracked open fluid fill port on the pan - this is a BIG plug with a 17mm hex and it was TIGHT! I had to use a short breaker bar to get this sucker open. It let go with a loud crack!. Either it has NEVER been opened or the dealer over-tightened it when I asked them to check the fluid level four years ago. Which ever is the case, I'm not impressed.... :confused: I nipped it back up before any fluid escaped.

3. Hooked up INPA and started car. Used INPA to monitor trans fluid temp.

4. Waited until fluid temp was up to 25Deg.C. and removed fill port plug. No fluid came out (as expected).

5. Pumped about 500ml of fresh ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid into the port, and at about this point, fluid started to run from port.

https://i.ibb.co/WffchK9/20200215-093531.jpg

6. As the fluid temp came up, the fluid flow rate from the fill port was a fine steady stream. At a fluid temp of 35Deg.C the fluid stream slowed to a drip.

7. As the fluid temp increased beyond 35Deg.C the fluid drip from the port did not increase in rate, so at this point I closed it up and called it good. I was tempted to let it run up to 40Deg.C as per the ZF process but the drip rate was slowing so I figure the level was pretty good now.

8. Stopped the engine. Torqued the fill port to the correct 80Nm (~60ft.lbs) and put the trans shield back on.

9. Compared fluid volume added with fluid volume recovered during level check. 500ml - 300ml = 200ml added in total. Old fluid was quite dark and but it was not "gritty" or contained any visible particles when held up to the light (or dripped onto white paper).

10. Test drive. Went for a 35km drive and wasn't expecting any difference. Maybe it was a plecebo effect or maybe I'm dreaming but wow - was the tansmission now smoother when cold. It shifts beautifully...

How can 200ml make such a difference...? The obvious answer is.. it can't. No way. But whatever the reason, my ZF 6HP26 is currently pretty happy.

So am I... :thumbup:

(For comparrison, my wifes's Mazda trans fluid check is one-step - pull the dip stick and look! :rofl:).

I am also skeptical of servicing my transmission fluid too Wayne. Mine is at 178,000+ miles now and never been done but almost ready to give it a shot now after seeing my fluids in the diffs and TC being really decent. The transmission works perfectly so now would be the time to do it rather than once it starts complaining.

I have big month coming with a Pirelli tire test in Homestead next week followed by the first Trans-Am race of 2020 the following week in Sebring and I get a couple of weeks after at home before heading back to Sebring for the IMSA 12 Hours of Sebring.

Those 2 weeks are already scheduled for OFHG and CCV on both the X5 and E46 so maybe right after the 12 Hour I may plan on the transmission service. :thumbup:

Jeepers, OB - and I thouht MY dance card was full.... I've got about 3,000km of road trips in the next two weeks - hence not pulling the transmission apart this weekend! ;)

*edit* BTW, OB - meant to ask - what trans is in your 3.0i - a ZF or a GM? It's a facelift so I'm guesing its a ZF 6HP26 too?

All 3.0L got the GM A5S390R (GM 5L40-E) I believe. :dunno:

Forgive my posting about the issues yesterday (at -11°F) with my SO's F25, but I know that many of the long term members check in here.

After an uneventful start in the 30°F garage the SO drives to work down the highway at freeway speeds without issue. Stops for a coffee, shuts engine off. Comes back out with coffee and NO START, just cranking.

I get the call and start out with the Creator 310 in hand. Get there and I wanted to push it up into a parking space away from the active fuel pumps. She gets in and I try to help her get it into Neutral. The damn thing then starts up normally :wow: :wow:

Get her to work and I drive the F25 back home and all day without any recurring issue.

Here is a picture of the codes that were present

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9x...U=w675-h900-no

I have had no success in finding these specific codes (1F4B08 and 1F4A08) anywhere in my usually successful Google searching.

Does anyone have an idea or a link to these code descriptions?

Fuel Pump Relay????

A head scratcher........Please let me know if you have any details on these codes.

PS: I have also posted in the F25 Forum.

Thanks,

Mike

Completed my "brake" cleaning.

1. Green scrubby pads are awesome![emoji106]

2. Brake pad clean up with 400 & 600 grit removed all visible plastic traces, but it still has an occasional squeal[emoji2959]

3. I recommend CBC brand brake cleaner and as an added benefit even outdoors it's a cheap high[emoji1787]

4. Hot disks LOVE plastic bags....[emoji849]

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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...69c6bf017b.jpg

I would redo the pads with some of this. on two of the cars I maintain, I had to eliminate squeak and this stuff did the job.

Thanks Andrew. I'll see if it's available at the chemical store. Everything is in its own type of store here...

Don't know why for sure, but I have an idea why it's that way

[emoji2957][emoji2957][emoji95]

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Did a full front brake service last week with a full brake fluid flush and noticed the rears were low as well at just over 1/8" remaining. (Fronts were just under 1/8") Definitely could have got 6 more months out of them but it just bugged me all week that my brakes were not 100% so ordered everything from FCP and did the full rear brake service today with rotors, pads and sensor. Now my brake service is a complete 100%. :thumbup:

The 25mm spacers wanted to be a problem, they had set up a homestead on the rear hub/rotor :rofl: