Please keep us updated! I'm down!

Bosch icon was my second last set they weren't as good as the onyx buy very very nice.


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I second that. Would be great to meet up and would love to experience COTA. Been invited a few times for different events and I can never seem to make it. Either out of town or broke (read: wife and kids have commandeered all the $$$ for that period). :D

PS: If you look like Deadpool in that job position... THAT was a very bad day. ;)

OK, we will plan on it. Same goes for any race, anywhere. The members here are my second family so everyone is always welcome to any race I am running.

The rest of the season

Trans-Am

Indianapolis 7/31-8/4
Mid-Ohio 8/7-8/11
Road America 8/22-8/25
Watkins Glen 9/4-9/8
VIR 9/19-9/22
COTA 10/3-10/6
Daytona 11/14-11/17

IMSA

VIR 8/22-8/25
Petite Le Mans Road Atlanta 10/8-10/12

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0d65527634.jpg

Finally fixed wife's 20 pin under hood obd port to pass the signal to the under dash 16 pin port so finally I can run the scanner from inside the car!

Here ya go.... this vid is my old historic Group A race car with the engine as run in 1986/87 being warmed up and idle only to about 2000rpm in the clip...

It was only a 5ltr V8 but was the fastest around in its day...

I agree, the carby cars always sounded better to my mind....(turn up the volume and have a listen..)

https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/...16cc125e_z.jpg

I agree, not much can beat a carb car (except for the police radio)

Don't ask how I know....[emoji1787]

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Shop called me, after 2 days we finally figured the issue out.. MY WOBBLE AND SHIMMY ARE ACTUALLY FIXED!!!!!!

The old owner put these E70 wheels on and put the 2011 lug nuts on the vehicle which were Spherical i believe they said and we need Conical lug nuts on the E53s. It has not centered my wheels which is why I have been having a vibrating car and shimmy so bad. I replaced my whole front suspension in the end so it drives like a dream according to the shop. They also removed my spacers before figuring this out so I will probably be leaving these off...

Doesn't make sense. The wheels require conical lug nuts for the e53 if they're e53 wheels. If you had e70 wheels that required spherical lug nuts then it should have been fine if you had the required lugs. What you may not have had is the eccentric rings that are required. The e70 wheels have a slightly larger diameter at the hub than e53. The rings make up the space. I can see not having the rings causing your problem.

It's the rings that are required to center the wheels off you use e70 wheels on e53.


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Were the spacers hub centric (72.56mm)? Did you have hub centric wheel adapters to take up the extra space on the E70's larger center bore (72.56 to 74.1mm)? Either of those things not being hub centric, and the correct center bore, will make it much more difficult to center the wheels.

I bought a set of e70 wheels for wife's X5. The spacers are required. If the mechanic just used lug bolts carefully that is a temporary fix. You need spacers to run e70 wheels on an e53. Also: use the plastic ones. The aluminum are great until you need to remove one to work on the car or use a spare tire!

using plastic spacers sounds like the worst idea I have heard in a VERY long time

always use a little bit of anti seize and you wont have problems

Incorrect terms being used here. The correct term for what is required is hub-centric rings (not spacers) - and these are certainly often plastic, although metal one are available. They have very low load on them and only serve to keep the wheel centered on the hub - they do not space the wheel (outwards) in any way.

Spacers on the other hand - yeah, plastic would be bad. Spacers are virtually illegal here - you can use them but you then have to have the vehicle re-certified by a qualified engineer - which costs huge $. Many folk do run them but with no certification (which is illegal and is an instant fail on the annual safety checks we have).

I believe he is referring to the hub rings, not spacers. Also, make sure whoever is bolting on the wheel torques them preloaded(not completely on ground.) Basically lowering the vehicle til enough weight to torque without spinning the wheel/tire assembly.

Ninja edit, someone beat me to it.

I was looking up the proper name for the rings since spacer does usually mean the thick metal ring that moves the wheel away from centerline.


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Quoting myself to correct my post. Brain farted and forgot the term "rings." :rolleyes:

Here is the latest poor financial decision I've made.

https://i.postimg.cc/63QJvJH6/20190712_130107[1].jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/HLz1ns9P/20190712_162000[1].jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Ls2MmZL1/20190712_162010[1].jpg

Bought 3 of the OE 420L roof boxes from the dealer today. The parts dept director hated having them around and made me a deal I could not refuse. In my defense, I asked the wife about buying one and SHE said to buy all 3. :D So I obliged. One will go on the E61 wagon, Mouse said he wanted one, and the other will be painted imola red/black to go onto the E53.

I would love to do this too!:thumbup:

But I don't have anymore space ( too much car parts and other doodads) in the garage if not using it.

Eagerly awaiting on your Imola with the roof box mounted with matching paint on it!:D

Gonna have to keep up with the "CW's" and paint mine sterling. :kiss3:

Looking forward to some pics mounted! :thumbup:

Is that a Sierra truck you have?

Close. It's my FIL's Silverado. Forget the year.

I'm excited to see it up there and mounted too fellas. But that will be a bit as I need to order the rail kit first. The E61 is taking priority right now to get it up and running. Never ceases to amaze me how mistreated most BMW's are. Wagons seem to take it even harder. Having to repair much more than anticipated, replace missing trim, broken parts, etc. No such thing as a cheap BMW right? :D

Nice!

You know there's a company that sets up carriers with a belt-fed, right? Just saying...[emoji1787]


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Damn dude. 3. Lemme get one. Shit. Lol.
Are there any more left at said dealer?


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New tensioner pulley on the supercharger. It was fun to find, as it's not located in any manual or diagram. I also replaced 2 coolant hoses on the top side & topped off with BMW blue.

Pulled the cats off due to bank 2 codes, so now it's loud as hell. Going to put some mufflers in their place.

Next up, check spark plugs on bank 2 and charge the AC system.

After that, I'll be basically down to cosmetics. Some fresh paint on the front and back and it'll look & drive like new.

Swapped out the AutoZone MAF I had for an OEM to chase a fluctuating idle and random SES light. No more non-OEM for me. Forgot to reconnect the harness though :yikes: . Drove for two days trying to figure out why I was in Transmission Failsafe Mode and thought I had perhaps discovered how long the original fluid would really last.


Decided to take a second look under the hood and saw the open connector :(. Hooked it back up and everything is fine again.


Memory is the second thing to go.....I forget the first.:banghead:


2002 X5 3.0 361,100 miles
2014 428i 63,900 miles


2004 325i Sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i Sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration - no reassembly progress but the engine goes on the dyno next month

New wipers! lol Let's see how long these last. Got the Trico's. Also detailed the interior including shampoo front, rear, and cargo carpet. Tempted to pull the factory Avin screen protector off and raw dog it since I noticed a few scratches on it.

Cleaned MAF a while back. After doing the secomd car I start for a test drive and quickly get SES. Same thing I never plugged it back in yeeesh.

Updated my iBus app to version 2.1.3.1 that released today. It fixed my double DSP signal being sent at startup where I had a short burst of sound and then 1 second later normal sound. :thumbup:

I did this: AWR-fix: Front Wheel Bearing Remove & Replace
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...4&share_type=t

If the dash can display "Trans Failsafe Mode" you'd think it could display "No MAF Found".


2002 X5 3.0 361,200 miles
2014 428i 63,900 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird under restoration - engine dyno run in August

You'd think!

traded my 06 X5 4.4i with 150K miles for a 2015 X5 xdrive35i with Msport package.

Looks fantastic, but "the ultimate driving experience" is gone. The electric steering is especially dull.

Oh well, I've got a Porsche Boxster for the days I need to driving pleasure. the X5 is now just a boring DD :(

you want dead electric steering, drive an E85 Z4 .... OMG
I am in the process of collecting parts to put a normal rack in it.

And that is why I am keeping my '06 X5 with 235,000 miles on it. She's my daily driver and it's fun to drive commuting or doing a bit of sporty driving.

Surely there's easier ways to get to McDonalds.... :rofl:

front tie rod ends ect
 

replaced tie rod ends ball joints and sway bar links is there a left and a right to these ? i just put them in the only way they fit nothing on them to say left or right with in a week the ball joint popped out from the link ordered some bapmic ones and gonna fit them next week end just have them wired in hope fully that holds for a week

Yes, there is. Go to Realoem.com. You'll get the correct part numbers. Left and right are different.

thanks the ones i ordered are left and right so i will know which is which all the vids i watched on you tube didnt say nothing

hey thanks a lot for that link i have been going crazy trying to find a door handle but looked up the part no searched ebay got one for 20 bucks :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

New rubber! And replaced the sway bar bushings. Holy smokes what a difference. Even took away my remaining shimmy. Finally back to normal. Oh and picked up a Delphi fuel pump brand new on Amazon for $30!!! Just had a damaged box. Big win as my was failing.

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Ordered the ape man -camera on Amazon. It's perfect and plugs right in under the glove box. but as you know all of our cigarette lighters are always hot so I will drain my battery if I leave it plugged in. Can anyone give me any ideas on how to hard wire this? Perhaps someone has already done this and figured out which fuse to go to?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...414eda2c0e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f0993579c6.jpg

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Today did window clips and repaired door card, then put it all back together.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5abfca4d_b.jpg

Tomorrow is R Day... (Removal) of air suspension....

Have booked low lift truck to pick up at 7am and off to a local DIY garage with a hoist.... got all the parts and reading up on notes....

Air suspension is getting swapped out, giubo being done and transfer case gear...

Should be a big day....

Then all that's left is coolant leak and seat belt fastener replacement...

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Aaaannnnddd....... it's done...

Air suspension swapped out yesterday. In went new Bilsteins and Eibach springs. Hired a hoist at a local workshop for the day. Great facilities as they had a simple spring compressor for the struts and easy to use jacks.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4bd82265_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9945bf73_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3bc7b0a0_b.jpg

That looks awesome. How did the stance come out? Pics on the ground?

It's exactly the same height as original. I checked on the finished ride height before ordering the springs and it matches to the millimeter.

I personally never understood removing the air system for coilovers. I love the soft, comfortable ride of the air springs and being able to adjust the height. Is there a reason to do this besides the cost of maintaining the air suspension?

Usually when you get enough failures that its driving you nuts chasing the Gremlins. I need the air suspension in the back since my weight varies as much as 1300#


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Took pictures of the X and getting it ready FORSALE on Facebook MarketPlace. I use to use Craigslist to sell my cars but now they are charging for car sale ads.

PM me I've been eyeballing your car since we met in person hoping you'd sell it some time .


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LVR, what's the wear on the left inner arch from - tire hitting the arch when air suspension was screwed up?

Went back and looked at that too. Now I also see the Nurburgring track map on the shock label :thumbup:

Wpoll yep sure is. There’s also some others. Once I had the parts I thought I’d try to drive it to the garage so went for a lap around the block. Between flat spots from sitting in one place for so long and the rubbing it was obvious it had to go up on a flat bed to go there.

I had been hoping that the whirring noise I’d been getting under acceleration and worse when turning was related to the height and something rubbing but nope.... investigation continues....

Overboost Mate I’ve been handling these things up close and hadn’t noticed that! Lol... I took it for a long drive yesterday on a work errand. It was enough to allow the springs and car to settle to correct ride height completely.

Came upon a slip road corner on the way back with no traffic lights, downhill in and uphill out so thought I’d chuck it in and see how it felt....... this thing corners!!!!!

Big improvement.... was a bit shocked at lack of understeer. pretty happy with combo so far....

It was easy for me to spot, I see that Nordschliefe circuit layout everyday of my life. It's one of a dozen tracks tattooed on my arm as a sleeve. :nanana:

Replaced my sunroof motor.. made a video I wish someone made for me. Also getting a few dash lights on the trifecta of brake, DSC, and traction control lights. Went ahead and ran them through my INPA and looks like it's just a small disconnect so clearing the codes and we'll see what happens next.

https://youtu.be/lT0S8NachV8

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Finally got around to repalcing my rear sub-frame bushes. The old ones weren't too bad - no noises or anything - just changed them on spec (based on mileage and age).

Installed new Meyle HD bushes.

I have to say - the Kommen tool makes this job a breeze - I cannot imagine a better tool. :thumbup::thumbup:

http://i67.tinypic.com/2irt5d.jpg

http://i66.tinypic.com/2dl448j.jpg

As you can see, I was able to simply lower the exhaust out of the way. :thumbup:

Share a linky for the tool.

Poll, I think you should let me "review" that tool.... I mean there's no reason for you to put it in the display toolbox [emoji1]

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Anyone have torque specs for rear suspension stuff, and which bolts to tighten whilst on the ground? Ty.

Heading down to garage in a few min.

newtis is your friend. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...epair-manuals/

Kommen e53 rear sub-frame bush tool: -

https://www.kommentools.com/products...g-tool-set-e53

I've added it to my original post also...

You don't need a tool anywhere near as expensive as that. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bmw+e53+x...b_sb_ss_i_1_29

True but did you see how badass that tool is? Sometimes you have to splurge. Considering the stupid amount saved vs even taking to an Indy, the savings will pay for the better tool. That said, why is there no pass around on the forum for this exact tool. Everybody pays $30 to borrow the tool and it's paid for in ten uses


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Threw one of the roof boxes on the newly acquired wagon... which has been getting all my attention lately. Mostly due to it being a poor neglected 182000 mile BMW. So basically a typical used BMW. A $1200 purchase price has quickly ballooned to ~$4500. People abuse their cars... never ceases to amaze me. And then complain their BMW isn't as reliable as a (insert chosen import brand here). :rolleyes:

Anyway, here's a shot next to Red. Haven't purchased a roof rack for her yet to throw the other box on, but will. Did buy one for the E70 totally by accident. :dunno:

https://i.postimg.cc/bvpvBbs9/201907...HDR[1].jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8k9zVx75/201907...HDR[1].jpg

Anyone interested in seeing pics of the faux suede headliner and pillars going in the wagon? It's not E53 related exactly... but if you do some mental gymnastics they share the same pano roof. So totally E53 related when you really think about it. ;) It's ridiculously labor intensive but was necessitated (HAH!!! Yeah, necessitated) by having water stains on the headliner due to a leaky pano roof seal. Had to drop everything to replace it anyway.

You nailed it Andrew. I paid less for this "badass" Kommen tool than any of those cheaper Amazon tools. ;)

I'm the "second owner" - it was used by another E53 owner before me, I bought it from him and I'll now sell it to another E53 owner, reducing my investment even further. Win, win.... :thumbup:

If I can bring myself to part with it. It's just so badass.... :rofl:

Gave up on chasing the SES light issues and paid a visit to my friendly neighborhood dealer. Autozone lifetime warranty MAF went lean and the thermostat was unhappy again. Full inspection turned up cracks in all four front CV boots and a worn out thrust bushing. Really can't complain since the inner boots had 300,000 miles on them and the outers more than 100,000 this time. The tension thrust bushing lasted 170,000 miles. But that silly thermostat (that was #4) only went 63,000 miles.


Some other customers in the service area had to look at the dash because they had never seen a car with so many miles on the odometer!



2002 X5 361,700 miles
2014 428i 64,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration - engine dyno run in August

Heading to customs to get rear arms and bushing set!! Thursday night till Saturday evening set aside for work.[emoji857]

Also found out that a greasy fingerprint on the H.U. screen will cause activation in full sunlight and temps above 46c...[emoji3062]

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Some years ago there was a member that tried renting a special tool. Didn't do it for very long. Tool didn't come back timely and was damaged after a few round trips. A deposit of the cost of the tool was needed in case it didn't come back at all. Postage was an add on. Couldn't schedule advance rentals because of the return delays. Member said more trouble than worth. As I recall he never recovered the cost of the tool.

Most jobs that require special tools are not frequent repairs and now there are reasonably priced tools for most of those jobs that work very well. I have found it better to purchase the tool since some of my experience trying to shade tree engineer it take too much time and sometimes caused other damage. I justify the cost of the tool in the labor saving just as you do. And, you can never have too many tools.

It looks cool, but I don't see it doing anything different than an $80 tool. I've used mine once. If anyone in my area wants to borrow it, they're welcome to. I've also got a very expensive ball joint removal tool for the rear ball joints. Used that once as well. I'll loan that out to anyone around here as well. It makes all the difference in the world for removing and reinstalling the rear ball joints.

I agree. But I paid less than $80 for the Kommen… ;)

I also agree that nearly $300 is crazy.. but it IS a well made tool. Probably needs a good home in an indy workshop....

Good purchase!

Agreed. It's a professional's tool.

I was thinking more along the line of a one off use not a lending library but something along the lines of the next guy pays $30 less than the previous guy if the tool is $300 it takes 10 uses to pay for the tool and each person is out $30. If somebody keeps or loses the tool the bulk cost is on them.

Since I have a pair of X5 it's more logical I'd buy a tool and keep it.

Also with the price of the Amazon tool under $90 that same concept works but faster. Somebody guys for $90 sells for $70 next guy sells for $50 etc every rental is $20


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Maybe a simpler way to do it is to start a BMW Tool Swap FB Page where people can buy and sell BMW special tools. It would make finding the tools easier than searching on CL or marketplace or forums. I know i wasted a bunch of time searching for a used camshaft timing set for my E83 w/N52 engine. I eventually got a name-brand set on Ebay, but it was hard to find. I know people have those kits sitting on shelves in their garages (just like I do now). If there was a reasonably active swap page on FB, perhaps people would be more inclined to list the stuff they have.

AM.

I got an aFe intake for my 2003 3.0 5-speed for $112 shipped on amazon. Most of the time these are $300+. Super pumped since $300 is crazy high. Looks like Amazon is sold out so I am glad I didnt wait.

Start one up!

That might work. Could post in classified section.

Im new and this is what ive done so far this last week on my e53
 

Got a 2001 4.4i at auction.... Still getting it together and may have found a new little service for other owners... So far
New alternator " i replaced m62" water cooled
New sparkplugs
New passenger door handel frame
New driver door handle inside cable
New suspension airbags " put those on this weekend"
New vacuum hoses "put those on this weekend"
Window clip driver replacement
And thats it so far.

Also got Dcan for inpa and insta D and P still reading about software and watching videos... Thinkpad x1301e for software in car and also AK90 EWS programming system.... Just got programer yesterday.... And finally a key cutter.

The above key assigning to full ews data bases and cut and program old keys to upgraded keys....

Oh... I new to site... Hellow everyone.. 2001 e53 4.4i sport package 163k
My first BMW and im new to all of this but not cars and computers.

Welcome!

successful ABS module replacement. ended up buying a repaired one on eBay but I still seem to have the issue around the lights staying on the dash all yellow. I have successfully calibrated my steering wheel angle sensor. But my only code left that seems to be keeping the lights on are the electric force distribution? I can't figure out how to attack that one?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4d07581c6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7ba650b1dc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5406aa1374.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1f2d0ebd5d.jpg

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Don't you have to code a used ABS unit to the car?

The EBV fault is one we all seem to have - and the current thinking is it's a "cosmetic" error" and not actually a fault. Some have suggested that replacing the lateral sensor will fix this but that is unconfirmed...

From what I researched is if you get the axect party number you do not need to code it to the car itself. But perhaps since this one was refurbished and corrected maybe that changes things. The YAW sensor is not hard to get to and I have an extra one sitting around with the same part number.. wonder if it needs reprogrammed too

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Here's the "original" thread about the EBV fault...

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ebv-fault.html

There's others too...

The difference for me is that I have a full reading from my software.. hmm

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New subframe bushings, arms, guibo and of course a CV joint...[emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959] I'm getting the use of the shop for free (traded old head unit) and parts all in for 318.00 USD

[emoji24][emoji24]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ce586f3d7e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...531d5b2898.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f20850e797.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b3765e9da8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a0e5c77ac1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1f24e3d716.jpg

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You may regret not doing lemforder... How was the front driveshaft removal?

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It was like masturbating with a cheese grater, slightly amusing but mostly painful... I am so beat up from trying to hurry (because 5x a day prayer shutdown) I'm not sure whether I won or the circle saw. [emoji15]

Sunday is test driving, re-torquing and alignment day.

I also learned that I can lower the exhaust system all by myself if I use my skull to slow it's fall to the ground. [emoji856]

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That method works for an 18" pipe wrench also I discovered a few weeks ago loosening up wife's tie rod that was fully rusted into one piece apparently.

I got home and the only thing the wife said, was "you're not putting those clothes in my washer" and not one word about the mountain shaped bump on my head. I mean that's just cold.. [emoji1787]

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Women

Today I un-bricked my MK3 nav after I didn't follow directions the first time, then put in a map disc so it now actually functions. Also replaced burnt out drivers footwell light, and two door courtesy lamps, and replaced a few broken trim clips for door seals. Sometimes it's the little things that make the difference!

I was going to say more about women, but it's too difficult to type while looking over both shoulders [emoji28][emoji15]

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I installed my aFe intake. I am pretty impressed with the quality -- it used all the factory airbox clips and everything fit perfectly. I dont think it released any h-pees, but it certainly gives a bit of a nice growl at WOT. Doesnt seem like it will sound drone-y while towing either.

Lolol. Job is done. All that matters [emoji38]

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Wired up my (older/hardwired) Prodigy brake controller. Thursday is the first camper tow. Spent significant parts of the last 3 days putting a new oil pump in wife's E83 (N52 serpentine belt ingestion). My back needs a couple recovery days!

AM.

This was new info to me shortly after buying our 530xi E61 a few months ago. Scared the piss out of me, but so glad it prompted me to inspect things. Belt was getting chewed up on the inside. Turned out a shop or PO had installed a junkyard AC compressor that must have come from a car that had been hit pretty good in the front. The pulley was not true. I don't know how long that belt would have lasted (I had already ordered a replacement, along with plugs, coils, VC gasket, etc, etc) but knowing about the ingestion problem made me glad I had checked it out. New AC compressor pulley and it's back good to go now. But... :yikes: things could have gone south in a hurry.

I might be on to a cause (and therefore a solution...)

I happened to be flicking through the vehicle manual on the weekend whilst looking for a way to change the DSP sound preset (got the original nav) and came across an index reference to EBV....

The manual states that it is a booster for the braking force to the rear wheels to assist the vehicle stopping straight particularly at speed with extra pressure. Been doing some digging and it apparently relates to an electrical harness/contact on the right rear wheel being rusty somewhere...

Have to replace a plastic retaining clip on the rear axle for the brake lines so as soon as it comes in am going to see what I can find....

Found this in one the BMW training manuals (on brakes...)

Electronic Brake Proportioning (EBV)

The Electronic Distribution of the braking force (EBV). Will adjust the braking force to the rear wheels based on the vehicle’s loading to maximize the braking force at all wheels.

The control module monitors the wheel speed sensor inputs, when the brakes are applied, to determine vehicle loading. The control module compares the rate at which the front and rear axles are slowing down.

If the rear axle is slowing at a rate similar to the front it indicates that the vehicle is loaded and more braking force can be applied to the rear calipers to stop the vehicle.

If the decel rate of the rear wheels is far less than the front, it indicates a lightly loaded vehicle. At this point, if the same braking force were applied to the front and rear axles, the vehicle would become unstable.

If this difference exceeds the threshold values programmed in the control module, EBV is activated. The control module will cycle the inlet valves to the rear brakes to regulate the braking force.

Sounds like it uses the wheel speed sensors and not any other sensor... :dunno:

That maybe explains why people replacing yaw sensors not finding any solution...

Hmm.... there is an electrical connector mounted up near the rear strut....I'm thinking that as I have the red TPMS light on and this code that I might replace the wheel speed sensors to start with....

Other than those, there's only the yaw sensor or the control module itself so might as well start with the cheap stuff first :bustingup

Yes.... yes they can.... all this was crammed in the pickup tube. My oil pressure measured only marginally weak, but I had battled inconsistent vanos operation and I had a rattley noise on startup that I eventually figured out was the oil pump. Take good care of your N52 belt system. The most common cause of failure seems to be from a leaking oil cooler gasket or OFHG. Oil gets on the belt and lets it wander off the pulley.

Attachment 76407

AM.

Replaced the E53's lift gate roundel.

BMW Part number 51 14 1 970 248.

134k

I am expecting improved fuel economy.

Brad

Replaced front wishbone assy, replaced bushings and ball joints of the tension strut, drivers CV axle(boot tear), repaired frozen passenger side caliper and replaced rotor all in the pursuit of curing a front end vibration.
I chose to replace the tension strut parts to save some $ and I have a 20 ton press so why not, however the ball joint ends that fit into the hub are a bit of a bear. The wishbone was only $35 a piece from FCP so why bother restoring it and I just replaced it. The frozen caliper was a fairly simple fix and only $15 to rebuild and while I was at it I did the brake fluid flush. I replaced the rotor figuring the caliper might of warped it and it is a warranty item from FCP. The CV axle was a bit of a bear in that I wanted to just replace the torn outer boot but could not do that without releasing the inner boot as well ( see CV boot replaced in 30 minutes ). This unfortunately opened a whole can of worms for me as the CV axle must have been a replacement. The axle nut was 6 pt. 41mm nut, the shaft between the to joints was larger than normal so clamping the new boots was very difficult and the inner joint larger end was actually smaller than a stock joint so the boot did not fit correctly. After a test hop and an even worse vibration than before plus the poor fitting inner boot slung grease everywhere I ordered a new GKN CV axle from FCP.
I am happy to say that all is now well with the X and the front end feels nice and tight and I am very happy with the results. I failed to mention that I have had the wheels balanced as well and next up is an alignment.
If anyone has any questions about this feel free to ask.
Tom

[emoji1787]

For improved performance add the M badge [emoji6]

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Good sharing there...great job. I am about to replace pass-side outer CV joint with a Cardone premium (new not rebuilt) from amazon. I wonder if I am making a mistake not using GKN

Well I would guess that depends on your vehicle. We have had this X for 2 years now and after all the initial preventative maintenance I have done (valve cover gasket, OFHG, Vanos rebuild etc. etc.) I look under the car there is very little leakage anywhere and the truck performs like new. So for me investing $550 and replacing all those parts it was a no brainer. Plus they are all guaranteed for life.
I have used a remanufactured shaft from Cardone when I had my 330xi that I had purchased from Napa it was also warranted for life. I did have to replace it once due to a torn boot. I do not know the cost of the Cardone shaft but for $256 and lifetime guarantee from FCP it might very well be worth a look.

Leatherique!

Today with the application of Leatherique plus the new roundel from a couple of days ago the improved economy should be spectacular.

Brad

Replaced the coolant expansion tank and the coolant temp sensor.

After the X spent over 2 years in the garage as a dust sculpture..........

1) New front halfshafts.

2) New Steering angle sensor w/reprogramming.

3) New climate control fan (in dashboard).

4) New "pusher" fan for climate control (in front of radiator).

5) Airbag recall.

6) Visual inspection of TCGs (with inspection/borescope), done at Classic BMW.

7) New set of Vred Ultrac Vortis (Vortii?) in staggered 19" fitment.

Feels good to get the old X back on the road, had a 6-17 inspection sticker until last week.

Good job neighbor :thumbup:

After leaving my E53 sit for a month I just installed the iBus 2.1.3.1 update and love the new features and improvements it brings to my Eonon Android head unit.

Mike

Thanks neighbor.

I was at the crossroad of selling (at a HUGE discount, because of all the issue), of getting it in proper working order (and licking my wounds).

Looks awesome TiAgX5 :thumbup:

Great call to put it back into serviceable shape!

I'll be on the lookout for you as I'm in the Coppell, Lewisville, Flower Mound area as well.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/To...A=w640-h480-no

Mike

I'll keep an eye out for your X also.

Not too many pre-facelift 4.4s on the local roads these days. Most are 3.0s

Been enjoying it after getting it back from Valve stem seal and related gaskets repair. It's my DD now since we sold the 528i a few weeks ago.

Good to see you are still around!

It's always something....

Got the wife to go out without the baby (finally) for a nice dinner and her door handle shit the bed... I swear I should name this one Christine as the wife thinks BMW's only fall apart [emoji1787][emoji848]

New latches are on order (4 each) on the bright side with the new shoes, bushings and arms it's like it's on rails.[emoji106][emoji106]

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Good to see you're still on here too Brian.

Hope everyone is doing well.

Took the E53 on its first camping trip. Pulled about 3000 lb. camper beautifully. The beach has vehicle access through deep, powdery sand. Tractors roam the beaches collecting fees to pull out stuck vehicles. The X5 handled the sand with aplomb - even pulling 3 standup Jet Skis on a trailer. I didn't take any X5-specific photos, but here's one of my sons on the beach with the X5 sitting there also...

Attachment 76420

AM.

Nice. I like the color and I have the same wheels.

Thanks! Yeah, when I was searching for an e53, blue was my second choice to white. I also much prefer these 17" wheels to the common base 5 spoke wheels. Blue paint is vulnerable to sun, however, and I've got some damage to fix. I don't want to mess with a full re-paint, but I need to re-paint the hood (clearcoat peel) and the bumper covers (fading). That project is in cue behind several others at the moment.

One reason I opted for an e53 was to be able to pull a bigger camper than what we currently have. While it handled our 3K lb. popup well, I'm concerned that the 3.0 will struggle a bit pulling, say, a 5K lb. hardside trailer. Perhaps if I just resolve to drive no faster than about 60mph it could work.

I was REALLY pleased with how the X-drive system handled the soft sand. We watched several similar AWD vehicles get stuck, but the X-drive system did a great job of powering the wheels through it. Even my niece's Grand Cherokee gave us a bit of a scare before barely managing to pull itself out of its own way.

AM.

I am pulling a 3k hard shell camper with my 2003 3.0, and I have been pretty happy with it. Loaded it is probably 3600-3800. I think the weight is less of a deal than the aero drag. I cant hardly tell the difference between full tanks/fully packed and completely empty.



I do have to downshift to third to maintain speed up grades, at least at elevation. We tow ours over a 5,000ft pass several times a year. But at sea level it has much less of an issue. And it never needs a downshift to stay at 65mph on flat ground, though I like to stay at 60 for fuel economy. My last tank coming up the hill was 11.9mpg... Ouch


I would never take my pre-xdrive X on the beach though! Three open diffs is just asking for trouble on sand.

I live at 6700 ft, so I'm sure the 3.0 struggles a bit more for me than if at low elevation. That said, we rarely drag the camper out in the mountains. We're usually going to lower elevations for better Jet Skiing.

BMW really got the transmission tuning right on this vehicle. The engine seems more powerful than it is because the trans adapts very quickly to avoid bogging down. My wife's E83 they didn't get quite as "right".

AM.

I've driven up sand hills at maybe 10° slope never had a problem with 01. I wouldn't try without working abs/DSC though.

At 134,386 added one quart of Mobil 1 0w-40. 1,300 miles after last adding a quart and 3,758 after last oil change.

Brad

Hit one too many potholes in NYC. Thought I broke my suspicion as the vibrations were pretty sudden and annoying. My rim now spins in a figure 8, like a bicycle wheel with bad spokes.

I used these guy a few weeks ago, dropped off all four staggered alloys for inspection (along with a new set of Vred Ultrac Vortis). ARS re-trued two wheels.

One front had a .035 "flat spot" over ~ 30 deg (on the barrel side), and one rear had a .03 hop (on the barrel side).

I bought the wheels used ~8 years ago, had to road force balance to get them drivable, then do a side to side swap during install on X to find the "best" direction of rotation. They were tweaked before I got them.

ARS did a spin balance (no road force) post repair, the wheels are vibration free at speeds over 100mph now.

https://arswheelrepair.com/

I would bet NYC has a few good wheel repair shops, I'm surprised you aren't on a first name basis with a few, driving a 2.5 ton vehicle on 20s with small sidewall tires in NY.

Installed a replacement nav screen. Damaged one of the ribbon cables in the process. Screen is good now, but nothing works. Ordered replacement ribbon cables. Should be here in a week.

Time to inspect your CCV system.

AM.

Replaced the front ball joints, tension struts, lower control arms, and sway bar links on my 03 4.6is. Car pulls to the left after the work. Went to firestone shop and did 4 wheel alignment. Now driving perfect and seems to float a bit on air when going over bumps on the road.

Super smooth and the steering wheel shakes during parking lot maneuvers have all but disappeared.

question on 2003 bmw x5 4.4

i turn on my ac and some days its cold right off the bat and some days it takes like 10 mins of drving to get it to blow cold? any ideas what it is?

pcv valve how hard its to change? looks orange and i need to take of beauty covers on valves and engine bay? saw a few videos seems easy

i also bought rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid i dont see leaks but after long trips
i hear weird noise going from park to drive or drive to reverse ? any body hear this noise as well?

Let’s just say I’ve been pulled over a few times for looking like I was driving drunk. I was literally avoiding potholes Officer.

Yea I am going to call a few shops. See what they say. I have never had the wheel bend this way. Usually barrel bends, and those I know can be fixed. This is a bend at the hub. Shit. This one feels like it will sting.

If the wheel has a figure 8 and/or hop, it can be mounted on a lathe (face toward chuck), the wheel is manipulated until the barrel side indicates within a few thousandths of an inch, then a skim cut is taken on the hub mounting surface.

Bingo, figure 8/hop fixed. All for ~ $125 to $150.

Man. You give me hope. I will be calling the shops around and get all my rims fixed one go. Why am I doing this, when looking for an x5m? I don’t know. Either my wife or someone is going to get a nice old e53. Lol.

4.6 '06 is my ideal next car so lemme know if you find your M

You mean 4.8 '06. 4.6is only available in 02 and 03.

Btw, has anyone ever heard of putting the 06 v8 transmission into an 03 engine?

Disagree. When my CCV went bad I was going through a quart every 300 to 600 miles. Repaired the CCV and I went back to a quart every 1600 miles or so. Just changed my oil after 5000 miles. The previous change I used 10w60 at my indy's suggestion. I only had to add one liter of oil at 2600 miles. That suggests to me that the oil usage is due to piston ring coking which the 3.0 is notorious for.

Could very well be. That's not where one should start the troubleshooting, however. Jumping to the assumption that the rings are the problem is skipping over some simpler potential problems.

AM.

Will do. And it is a 4.8is.

After a few very disappointing calls, and people telling me my rim is shot with 1mm lateral runout, I found two shops that suspect the damage to be minimal and not serious at all. I’m finally going to get all my rims looking fresh again.

Replaced the old tired shocks and struts with new Bilstein B6's and H&R Springs; which was an amazingly simple job really - compared to EVERYTHING else I've ever done to my X...

Not when oil consumption is what would be considered "normal" by BMW.

Scored a set of style 87 wheels. All need some refurb

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...025b189bf9.jpg

E53 or e70?


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1. Changed the transmission oil cooler. Not sure why they keep failing :/
2. changed water hose that goes under webasto

Finished another solid trip towing the trailer.



I've done about 1500 miles in the last six weeks, all towing. Averaged about 13mpg during all of these trips, with the lowest being 11.9mpg and the highest 14.3. No issues to speak of except the left rear window regulator went bad.


I realized thay I have spent as much on gas in the last six weeks as I have the entire rest of the year.

i just added a jl audio 10 in stock placement and took out factrory subs in cargo boot it sounds amazing with stock door speakers........ i want to upgrade door speakers but retain the factory amp any ideas on what door speaker i should get i want jl audio but do not know what model..... i dont want distortion ? anybody done an upgrade on doors? oh by the way i have the factory sub box if anybody needs it. Thanks

How much do you average before without the towing?

Can you post a picture of your sub install?

I drive so few miles that it is inconsistent and usually very low. Usually in the 15-16 range, especially in the winter when the car doesnt even warm up. But on highway trips it has done 20-22 mpg.

here is the link
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-X5-e53-...UAAOSw0ZJahrdj

I have a eonon ga9166a head unit with resler usb/app for dsp signal i kept factory door speakers i will post pics tomorrow after car wash

Jl audio 10 with jl audio amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136986...XD300-1v2.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136920....html?tp=68872

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8093488847.jpg

Finally started installing my replacement headlights. Only one so far.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7501fc2c37.jpg

New v. old. Pretty clear why they upgrade.

I found a set of 3rd party that so far are very ok.

The parts move over from the HID level aiming motor and it comes with an adapter to switch out the Incan low beam that comes with.

It uses external inline plugs to connect to the existing wiring for the high beam and uses the existing lamp holder for the marker light.

I'm very happy with the look of the lights though I may give this set to wife and get the black set for my car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...13b0a56435.jpg

One more pic of before and after.

White greased all doors and hinges. They were dry and rusty.

Washed and vacuumed. Sonax wheel cleaner. Brake dust is horrible.

When I opened up the hood I took a look at the intake and here is what I saw....

Looks like I found the issue or at least one of them. While I have it apart should I replace anything else?

Brad

i have Xonon headlights and want to upgrade and get smoked out headlights anybody know where i can get them alot of them on ebay said there not capatiable with xonon no idea what to get

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

DISA valve usually fails about the same time as the intake boot. See my AWR-Fix on the topic.

Also don't use knock off instake boot. Genuine only.

Where did you get those? They look great!

Very Sharp! Does it work with 03 4.6is with the oem hid?

Fixed my power folding mirrors.
https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/...a353bb4d_z.jpgX5 mirror by Al, on Flickr

Great job amancuso. :thumbup:

Did you source a replacement motor or what?

I've had mine apart and tried to service the motor and gears but the motor was shot. I got a gear kit and got all the gears straightened out but the motor is a PITA.

Anyone have any idea if this Turkish sourced motor is the proper one for our E53s?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Side-Mirror...3/223281361048

I don't think putting the worm gear on the motor shaft is possible :dunno: so I'm worried that the supplier will send a motor without a proper fitted worm gear shaft.......

Mike

My mirrors folded, the main problem was they'd fold out again instantly. My problem was the little metal arm on the microswitch. It had fallen off and got lodged in the "hinge" I pulled it out, bent it back into shape and reinstalled it.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Amazon and they are a very good deal.

The self leveling motor moves right over and the fit and finish is very good.

It has some stupid little led to light up the inside of the chrome which I think is moronic I'm not hooking that up.

[For 2000-2003 BMW X53 X5 Halogen Model] LED Halo Ring Chrome Projector Headlight Headlamp Assembly, Driver & Passenger Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JGQ7FQ..._sWUBDbEF43E85

That's the exact product.

My lights were in such terrible shape I was looking at replacement fixtures and they were so expensive even used were typically $150@ and probably the UV coating was already worn on those as well.

The biggest problem with these was where to get power for the halos.

Wasted about two hours trying to probe for key on power under the hood to no avail. Eventually realized the O2 sensors have power not at key on but engine on. I think in a way that's even cooler to engage the halos. Whenever engine is running.

The beauty is, though the O2 are PWM they all share the same B+ and are controlled with pwm on the ground.

So I'm tapping B+ off one of the pre cat O2 heater POS and will just tap into one of the dozen grounds near the lamp assembly.

I still have to install the right light assembly I spent too much time working on where to get power.

The interesting thing to note is that I think BMW may use an aspherical lens for low beam because there's a district bit of prismatic effect visible at the cut off. Makes for some interesting effect when driving near reflectors. You get some pretty colors bouncing off the white reflectors

Very happy with the lamp assembly, the main drawback is some visible streaks in the near field illumination, where my old lights had no visible beam pattern whatsoever close up just pure flood light. I may add some frosted film to the bottom edge to make that perfect and if so I'll of course post photos before and after.

The fit and finish is near perfect. There is a trick to install for perfect alignment: loosen the two bolts under the lights leavimg the body trim piece off.

Align the fit perfectly In the corner where the turn signal is then tighten all the screws/bolts. Install the trim after.


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Shows compatible with 00-03HID

You need to move over the leveling motor and the hid lamp holder. A little bit of magic for the seal on the back of the HID I didn't work out yet.

The plugs for the high beam are a little wonky as the lamp is a different style (bit comes with), the BMW holder is nixed and you connect an inline wire connector so there is an extra hanging part. I clipped it into my airbox filter clip to hold it steady.


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AWR-Fix: DIY facelift headlights
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...9&share_type=t

I created a thread for the upgrade.

Turns out the halos though beautiful are not bright enough to be DRL. They may be good enough for dusk time lighting though.

-awr

Went and saw my old indy and asked him to listen to the drive line noise... he reckons it's the X drive so he'll come out of retirement for a couple of hours next weekend to sort it for me... (phew)

Put new wheel speed sensors on the rear today. Will see if that eliminates the brake force distribution error....

Took out the leaking radiator and in went the new one. What a mongrel job! Couldn't disconnect the trans cooler lines so had to reconnect it on the radiator mount side and needed mucho gusto force to get it to seat properly.... have run it up but think I've now got a small leak there meaning it might not be properly seated so might be a do over....:banghead:

lol..... 'til next time.....

Sorry to hear...do update us on the outcome.

Mine's behaving good and no issues so far.

somebody help me

my passenger side vents are blowing warmer then drivers side?

any ideas on this issue both zones are at 60 degrees passenger side feels warm drivers side cold but takes a while to blow cold ... help me please i live in florida

Possibly a faulty heater valve on the firewall - there is a hot water valve for each side (driver and passenger).

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

Yeah, where did you find those?! :wow:

Should throw a code if it is. My wife's did when it stuck open.

My car was the same way, also blew hot in the back seat. Changed the heater valve unit on the driver side inner fender and it's golden now. I think I purchased it on eBay for roughly $20.

:whistle:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...51-medium-.jpg

^ No better way to do angel eyes on an e53 than to open them up. �� And on euro lights no less.

So nice, I really think those lights should be sent to me for "desert" testing.... I'd even cover postage [emoji1696][emoji1787]

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Updated DME with daten v66. The car seems idle better/smoother especially right after cold start.
Other than that.... :dunno:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...51-medium-.jpg

I'm not sure but those look like the factory halos with Weisslicht LED bulbs?

:thumbup: Yes! Sorry, I'm prepping for another road trip! This one is short. Estimated 4,000 miles. :cool:

Ahhh... Must be the inside shot. I kept zooming to see if I could see the light pipes but the lighting was even enough that it fooled me. :dunno: looks good at any rate. :thumbup:

And those clear Euros... https://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/im...lies/drool.gif

AWR-Fix: DIY facelift headlights
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...9&share_type=t

Whole thread on the upgrade including link to the Amazon produce page.



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Oil change.
Air and cabin filters.
New "pantyhose" pre-filter in air box.[emoji106]
Alignment check up.


And.... Broke the damn passenger door handle latch. [emoji2959]

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Fixed door handle (passenger side) and turned 212,500 on the odometer...

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Is that the mileage or the X5 repair count? lol... :bustingup

Speaking of which.... mine is getting up there....

swapped out microphone for Dynavin Nav (not working) only to find that new microphone also doesn't work.... solution? LOT'S of tension to hold the microphone jack into the back by way of carefully applied electrical tape... (better half states call volume and operation markedly better....)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bef1a2c9_c.jpg

used the 3M kit on the 4.8is front headlights.... this is BEFORE.... not overly happy compared to the professionally done version on the 4.4.. might be a redo....

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d8e8c99e_z.jpg

Used the caramel wheel to remove the door windshield adhesive as recommended by you guys here... easy as...:thumbup:

Went to replace the rear wheel speed sensors but they were the wrong length.... yup my bad I focused on the part number and ended up with two front sensors instead of the rear... :thumbdown

Now only have to fix the sunroof rattle and the X drive and might be able to finally drive the thing.....

Is that the mileage or the X5 repair count? lol..

[emoji1787] seems like both...

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Replaced exhausted [sic] cam shaft sensor on wife's X5.

https://youtu.be/iFcuAC_CPDw

Wow I may have stumbled onto literally the easiest possible e53 repair job that requires tools.

Pro tip: let the engine cool a bit before doing this job. The high pressure AC line will almost certainly interact with your wrist during this job.

5mm hex in a mini ratchet is all you need for tools.

Glad it's easy I get to do it two more times in the near future.

I put in a temporary knock off because wife's car was setting a code for intermittent signal every other drive and I won't have the OEM parts for a while. I also am getting one for me, my car is about 5000 miles higher.

Interesting that she got a code for the exhaust (ed) cps but neither of us got a cps related code when the intake version failed (right around 128-130,000 miles).

Now tell me how much of a pain it is to get your wheels balanced...[emoji15][emoji15]http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5d80e089...WA0003_001.mp4

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Road force balance?


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Yeah, but damn I get worried that they're going full "Dukes of Hamas" for the test drive.
[emoji85][emoji86][emoji87]

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"Dukes of Hamas" :bustingup

It's funny because it's true...[emoji15]

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Replaced waterpump, thermostat, radiator hoses and the plastic fan blade. All parts bought at FCP Euro and am excited to be able to drive my x5. Bought her 10 days ago and she has been inop for most of the time due to failed waterpump.

Nice! I bought mine about the same time! Lucky the po did that not long ago. What year/motor/miles?

She is 2003 3.0i with 158k miles. Rear subframe mounts, most of the control arms and shocks are all very tired.
It does have a 4 corner SLS whick works flawlessly so I am in no hurry replace the struts.

Just need to decide if I want to put Chinesium control arm on it or should I invest in Lemforders.

Lemforders almost the same price at fcpeuro. I was stunned.


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Hello fellow Wisconsinite! I like Lemforders a lot and the full kit is about $900 for front and rear. I think Chinese ones can be had for $400 to $500

I was only looking at the control arms and thrust arms in the front.

A buddy of mine took the chineaisum route and had to replace several of the parts within a year (in the rear).

I would rather change out the parts in shifts with Lem rather than do all at once with cheaper hardware.

I had to replace wife's front control arms after about 2 years when using chineseium.


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Perhaps this isn't the best place to ask- but can I use standard Sachs shocks/struts with air bags? Mine is a 2003 3.0i with 4 corner SLS

I think you can use standard shocks at the rear but you cannot use standard struts on the front with air-springs... the shock/strut used for the air springs has different sprng mounts from the standard strut used with steel coil springs.

Tried to reset rear suspension on the single axle air for the 4.4 today without success. Sitting down on the back left.... ordered new compressor refurb kit so have to wait til it arrives from UK.

Also got the blue smoke on extended idle start today also....

wife majorly UNIMPRESSED as she is already driving my 4.4 because the 4.8is is still off the road...

me... I'm trying to get my Holden Rodeo new window regulator to match the old connector (t pin to flat pin) and there aren't any realoem type technical details out there so got the old piece of wood holding the drivers side window up.... :(

what a way to spend the weekend.... again....

Replaced the plate lights.

Replaced the o-ring on the radiator return line. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d717de1da1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1abec1a701.jpg

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When it rains it pours...

Cracked my oil cooler right at the fitting [emoji2959] yet was able to find a replacement in 2 hours! The lights for the plate were harder to get than a pork sandwich [emoji15]

I have come to the conclusion that BMW and Chinook helicopters were designed by the same person, because if they aren't leaking oil they are both out of oil.[emoji848][emoji848]


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You for got to include Harleys on that one, although the Vrods dont leak believe it or not.

LoL

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I listed it for sale: https://xoutpost.com/classifieds/bmw...ercharged.html