The 3.0 has been in storage for a while, got it out so I can get my daily fixed after someone backed into it.

Put a new battery in and started it, it would catch then die. Unplugged the MAF and it ran rough, so replaced the MAF.

Now it ran but CEL still on with a P0301 so switched coils and the problem moved so I got a new coil.

Finally the CEL is off and engine is smooth again!

I missed the X, lots smoother than the Subaru I am running for fun nowadays, lots slower though lol!

Woke up to find my driver side door not unlocking anymore :smh
Spent some time with a wire hanger to try and pop the lock without any success.
Ordered the actuator and carrier assembly and am now planning to take off the door panel to see if I can unlatch it manually

Look at my actuator repair thread. I show in there how to manually disengage the secondary lock. If the motor dies on the secondary you will not be able to open the door. If you can get the door panel off you could move the secondary lock manually and open the door.

Caveat: If the secondary lock motor works only in the lock direction, you'll lock yourself out again if you lock the door from outside.

PS: actuators die when the $6 motor inside fails. I've repaired four of them now between wife and my car for about $6 per door vs $230 per OEM actuator.

I think that is exactly what happened. I used the key to lock the door manually since the battery in the remote is dead.
I will search for your thread. I am just not looking forward to manhandle the door panel with the door being shut

This is thread that gave me so much hope but unfortunately I got nowhere trying that method
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-fix-pics.html

Actually I thought there is a manual override for the secondary lock. Did you turn the key the full 90°? Normal operation with motors only takes 60° twist it takes like 5x the effort to turn the final 30°


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Yes, the key moves to the 90 deg rather easily. And of I keep it there for a few seconds it rolls down all windows too.
But the lock pin still doesn't pop up

You may have an actual broken part, I thought there was a mechanical link to the secondary lock.

I've seen cases where the lock gets out of sync and I would try the escape hatch process.

Go in the car climb into driver spot.

Roll down driver window.

Put key Into the driver door lock lock it twice. The clown nose should blink fast to indicate the motion alarm is deactivated

Now try any door handle they should all dry fire and do nothing.

To exit a car that is double locked you have to hold the central lock button at the same time as pulling the door handle .

Try it a bunch of times. The motor may just be weak. When they fail they usually still work once in a while.

Once you get it out look at my repair guide. You can replace the brushes from a new motor in abiut an hour for about $12 for both main and secondary lock.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Not sure if my little BT adapter drained it, but it was plugged in and flashing. The car hadn't moved since wed. Wife went out to go someplace and the door wouldn't even open.
Manually unlocked went in. Wouldn't even click. Just dead as a door post.
Read 12.3v at the engine bay tho. Hmmm

Told her to jump in the M3, right before she left, had her pull up and jump it. Very dead battery, had her sit a minute. Then tried again. It started. Christmas tree on the dash. Wow.

Sent her on the way and go on the interwebz and put an order in for a Bosch unit at PepBoys and had her go pick it up. Then started clearing codes while it idled. Could not clear a CAN error to the transfer case. Very weird.

I read 12.4v on the old unit. It was a bit swollen. Just a tad. Couldn't find the date on it.
The new battery. 12.3v. Hmmm. Anyway, swapped it out and it cranked right up. No lights on the dash. To include the tpms light that I've been unable to reset for the 2 years I've owned this damn 4.8
Covered over 50 miles and no lights have returned.
Dunno what that's all about, but I'll take it.


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Completed a complete cooling sytem overhaul. Waterpump, t-stat/housing hoses, radiator, trans cooler t-stat, surge tank, shroud, fan and fan clutch. Not to mention new coolant.
Also relamped with LED the entire cabin and doors, love the look, was all yellow, now clean white light.

Not entirely happy with new fan clutch, shaft is too short and brings the fan too far back.
Looking for a correct match.

Cooling sytem overhaul and cabin/doors relamp
 

Entire cooling sytem overhauled, no part overlooked.
LED revamp for the interior and doors, love the clean white light.

This is very similar to when my battery failed. It could start the car after days off sitting even at 0F, but run an iPhone charger for 30 minutes and needs a jump start. 8 minutes of hazard flash was enough to need a jump start.

Think of it like this: you can take 8 AA batteries in series to get 12v but of course that won't start a car. Your battery was similar, voltage no current capability. The thing is: when voltage is high, no charge will go back in so normal use won't fix it.

There are techniques that will bring a battery back from the dead but mine was old enough and I wanted to upgrade to AGM

What a brilliant idea! You are my new best friend!
This trick of double locking worked like a charm
Now that i am able to open driver's door it should be much easier to replace the actuator

A big thank you!

I'm so.glad that worked. I used the same advice maybe a year ago when somebody randomly couldn't get in their driver door.


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So pulled off the door card and replaced the actuator this morning and learned that the lock pin is not raising even with the new actuator!! And yes I did plug in the master window switch and yes all the other doors lock/unlock just fine

I took the lock cylinder off again and tried to twist it with the key and a little metal piece just broke off. So I am guessing that might have been the issue all along :SMH
Looks like i will need to order a repair kit.
Any issues with driving around without the lock cylinder in place?

I've used my finger as a key for a week or more. You can put the lock cylinder in place without the hex screw so nobody knows. Get the kit from Amazon with the highest star rating.

On the kit sometimes they need a little bit of filing to make it fit.

O2 sensors and vacuum lines. Now maybe that SES light will stay off for a while and I can get more than 15mpg again. It's been an expensive year! I need a clean 12 months from the X.


2002 X5 3.0 367,000 miles
2014 428i 65,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

I think there is a typo in your sig. It say 367K miles :confused:
Also, ours look very similar to yours but has only 158k.
Attachment 76622

Oh that's no typo. Mmmm is famous in these parts hit 333,333 about two years ago.


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[QUOTE=ClassyJalopy;1169441]I think there is a typo in your sig. It say 367K miles :confused:
Also, ours look very similar to yours but has only 158k.




Oh, it's no mistake, This is from early in September at the start of a 1400 mile week. ;)

Looks like mpg is doing better


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That was just after doing a San Antonio to Arlington TX run, averaging 74.6 MPH. The highway mileage wasn't the problem, but the city mileage dropped from 17.8 down to 15.4mpg. Those pesky vacuum leaks have a way of really screwing things up :rolleyes:


Just picked it up from my friendly neighborhood dealer this morning and can tell a pronounced difference already.

Yeah, last time it was in the shop I was told that the battery will need changing soon.
Brought it back and got $17 core charge. :)


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Time for the refreshes!

For the 4.4, all hoses, belts, pulleys, water pump, and expansion tank.

For the 4.8, suspension refresh. (Not pictured, the adjustable bits purchased from a fellow member)

Just a FYI for the Texas Mafia above, I just arrived in Austin and we are racing this week in COTA with Trans-Am and y'all are invited as guests of mine. I will be happy to put all of you on my guest list. We race Saturday but you would be on the list for the next 3 days if you want to come. I would love to meet you guys. :thumbup:

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attach...1&d=1569458968

New rear brake pads, cleaned the speed sensors 👍

Smart preventive move. I just cleaned wife's aired sensor after getting trifecta


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Trifecta? Not sure.
 

Thanks but looking for problems. I too think I’m dealing with the Trifecta issue that’s the reason for cleaning the speed sensors. My ABS, and 4 x 4 light are orange but my brake light is red. Trying to figure out what’s going on. It’s never gone into limp mode or fail safe, it drives normal. Taking it Friday to get codes read. I can’t figure it out. I’ve even changed the Actuator gear, and still no change. 🤦🏻 I love my E53 but it’s giving me a headache.

Brake red means hand brake activated or low brake fluid. A good scanner will show status of the hand brake not sure about fluid level lifting the cap will guy the low level switch. Also a good scanner will show wheel speed to help nail down that as a problem

The abs module itself has a design flaw that the bonding wires tend to break. Their are guys out there who know how to do a proper fix.

Just sold her after owning for only 4 weeks. She needed full suspension refresh and I felt that I am not ready to make that kind of commitment at this time in my life.
She went to a total Bimmer Head.

Easy come easy go. Suspension is approx $1200 in parts plus shocks and struts. three day DIY

Just did the Lemforder 20 piece kit from FCP. It was ~$850. A hint: Put everything in your cart and wait for an evening. They may just ask you to complete the order with a 5% coupon. That's not a lot, of course, but anything helps. :thumbup:

It is the only way to do it right. I think on the 4.6 and 4.8 the life span is 60-80 k on most of the parts in this kit.
My front torsion arms went at 40k
Rear 62k
Too many hard jumps at stop lights!
Fuel pumps are a 60 k item or 12 years which ever comes first!

Fuel pumps should last 4000-5000 hours with E10. (3000-4000 with pure gas and 5000-6000 with E20). You'd have to drive mostly city miles to wear out a pump in 60k.

I did the exact same! I think my order was bigger, saved like $100.

Even used them for some brake upgrades, but alas CA now charges tax on top :(

Right now I'm contemplating how I should R&R the rear lower swing arm bushings fix my camber.

Arm on car... or arm off car.

Brake fluid flush and reset the fluid age counter on the SIA. The clock indicator on the SIA pops up every 716 days, like clockwork. Because, well, it IS clockwork. :-)

Depends on the tool used to push the bush.


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Took mine off when I did it. Took them to a machine shop with a press. The bushings have to compressed before they are pressed in. If you have a press you can do it yourself. You'll need hose clamps to compress the bushing, then you can press it in.

replaced my transfer case and front drive shaft...$2600 $2000 parts and $600 labor

runs great shifts smooth

Installed the correct new wheel speed sensors to the rear, fixed the arm rest to the passenger door card and removed the door windshield residue with a caramel wheel....

So... decided to give the car a good wash and start the cleanup process after it sitting for a long long time.... and discovered that there is no slide to the cup holder... hadn't noticed it when I bought it...

My indy is doing the Xdrive next weekend, so all it leaves is figuring out why I can't lock it ever since the battery went low and the sunroof rattle...

Can you only not lock with key remote? Or not from cereal lock or key in the door?


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The central locking works normally from the internal button, the key operates the central locking at the door, it just won't operate from the remote key.

I've done all the methods on here in the forum about re pairing the key with so many presses etc and had the key charging on an induction charger overnight... no joy....

Only clue I have so far is that through ISTA I can see that there is no communication/power to the antennae module in the rear. There's no power to the CD player either yet all the fuses are fine so it's wabbit hunting time again... :confused:

Key fob talks via the antenna amp in the rear hatch so power needs to get there. Not uncommon for the wires to break in the tube from body to hatch by the right hinge.

So when I was putting the windscreen scuttle back in after flushing the brake fluid, I spotted that the hood (bonnet) switch was disconnected. Thinking I had probably undone this myself at some point (although not remembering having done so), I plugged it back in and hoped it wasn't pulled by a PO because the switch was faulty and trigger the alarm. :dunno:

Two days later, I get my answer. The sodding thing went off three times today in the car park at work... :confused:

I pulled the switch and disassembled it, cleaned all the contacts and sliding parts (of which there are FAR too many for this simple switch function!) and put it back in.

So far so good. But I'm sleeping with the key-fob on my bedside table! :rolleyes:

Finished changing out the front subframe due to corrosion. Looks like I need to her re-aligned this week now.

It's a very common thing to design in redundancy, use a DPST switch wired in parallel for example.

You can do a very close alignment with a tight string wrapped around front and back tires with a 1/16" spacer on the front bulge of each tire (tape to rear tires, string will hold it in the front)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12b68d303e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3fd809ec15.jpg

If the widest points of tire sidewall are close to 24" 1/16" for the spacer front and back are almost dead center of the 0.15° toe in spec front and back.

Thanks! I'll take a look at this tonight.

I still have to change out the tie rod ends, because I was stupid and used a pickle fork, instead of getting the correct tool from the basement...

I would 4 jack stands placed exactly on the corners of the car. The measure the distance from the axle tips to the string front and rear and make them the same. This will build a virtual box around the car. The measure the leading and trailing edge of the wheels to get the correct toe measurements.

DIY Wheel Alignment It’s Easier Than You Think! | Speed Academy

http://speed.academy/wp-content/uplo...ignment-19.jpg

It's a great theoretical method but it's a lot harder to take measurements in the range of 1/32 to 1/64 that matter in toe alignment than detecting a deflection in a straight string which you can easily tell when the string goes from touching to bending. It's quite easy to get within 0.05° angle using a string.

I was originally going to use a laser with a magnet to send a dot to the garage door and measure the distance between them left and right until I discovered the string method that road racers do to set up their toe

The problem with only referencing the other wheels/tires is that you can end up with a perfect alignment that is "crabbing" down the road. Unless something is broken or damaged from an accident, I doubt that will happen. Also it will keep the tires from destruction even if the car goes down the road at a slight angle from straight.

This is the way we string our cars at the track. No way of creating a box out of square when you measure the box from the axle ends. The wheels don't even come in to play until our box is made. We have fixtures made to attach to the front and rear bumpers with a rod like you see in the picture, no jack stands needed.

And we use millimeters. ;)

After spending an amazing day at the Trans AM event at COTA with Overboost, it was time for some Waverunner action at the lake. The battery in the X5 decided to fail just as we were set to head down the ramp to launch. Thankfully I got one more start out of it and we headed to AutoZone pronto for a new Duralast.


2002 X5 3.0 367,000 miles
2014 428i 65,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

Really nice to meet you srmmmm, glad you had a good time. It is always nice to put a some faces to our family members on this forum. :thumbup:

Well the indy is coming out of retirement this Saturday to do some service work on both the X5's after chatting a couple of weeks ago about my driveline vibrations.

Doing the transfer case gear and giubo on the 4.8is along with an oil change service, review of adaptions and check over of my radiator replacement, and installing the vacuum o ring, repairing a leak in the power steering and a service on the 4.4.

Should be able to drive both of them trouble free and no oil leaks for at least a day after that!! :dancing:

Posted her up for sale. South Florida.
https://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/...993354409.html

Re-repaired the previous owners brake line repair. Double Flare fittings aren't compatible with bubble flared lines.

Not today but yesterday, I started the tear down of the donor N62 from an 08 X5.

Dropped the white one off today for the cooling system, hoses, belts and pulleys refresh. I had not planned on the radiator bc I want my 3rd Zionsville to be in this E53. I'd do it if I thought they could deliver in less than 3 weeks. The last order from Zionsville for my 4.8is was 4 weeks to make it. Ridiculous. :rolleyes: I went ahead and got a new radiator along with this stuff.

I'll wait to replace this one pre-emptively till it's time to do the seals in another 50-60k. We should be right at 100k by then. The way the blue one is running, we'll have a long runway till the 4.4 is in full time service. She's at 39,900 now.

Item Qty Total
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...Gw64qEEbTQ--~CBMW Accessory Drive Belt - Contitech 6PK1548 BMW Accessory Drive Belt - Contitech 6PK1548 1 $12.29
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...crHVrBAJSg--~CBMW Drive Belt Idler Pulley - INA 11281440237 BMW Drive Belt Idler Pulley - INA 11281440237 1 $20.74
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...W7FCp_dEzQ--~CBMW Tensioner Pulley Dust Cap - Genuine BMW 11281730532 BMW Tensioner Pulley Dust Cap - Genuine BMW 11281730532 1 $2.93
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...9r.aHyUMjA--~CBMW Expansion Tank - Behr 376755211 BMW Expansion Tank - Behr 376755211 1 $38.43
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...JQKYyzVWHg--~CBMW Expansion Tank Cap - Behr 17117639022 BMW Expansion Tank Cap - Behr 17117639022 1 $6.71
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...K0Sz_cZCyw--~CBMW Brass Coolant Bleeder Screw - 17111712788 BMW Brass Coolant Bleeder Screw - 17111712788 1 $7.14
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...VPTjyjZuew--~CBMW Expansion Tank Retainer - Genuine BMW 17111438819 BMW Expansion Tank Retainer - Genuine BMW 17111438819 1 $63.36
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...V0b11sLl4w--~CBMW Expansion Tank Hose - Rein 17127509967 BMW Expansion Tank Hose - Rein 17127509967 1 $26.58
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...OiKUX6vDmw--~CBMW Expansion Tank Hose - Rein 17127509966 BMW Expansion Tank Hose - Rein 17127509966 1 $25.33
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...nzv3HZyWTA--~CBMW Auxiliary Fan Switch - OEM Supplier 13621433077 BMW Auxiliary Fan Switch - OEM Supplier 13621433077 1 $13.99
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...Pja59j6KPQ--~CBMW Belt Tensioner Pulley - INA 11287549589 BMW Belt Tensioner Pulley - INA 11287549589 1 $48.49
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...7u_ihw9NRA--~CBMW A/C Drive Belt - Contitech 4K860 BMW A/C Drive Belt - Contitech 4K860 1 $6.39
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...Qqt_datJ.A--~CBMW Belt Tensioner Pulley - INA 11287549588 BMW Belt Tensioner Pulley - INA 11287549588 1 $49.34
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...nexTo.SISQ--~CBMW HVAC Heater Hose - Genuine BMW 64216919107 BMW HVAC Heater Hose - Genuine BMW 64216919107 1 $83.69
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...I6QbOSr3LQ--~CBMW HVAC Heater Hose - Genuine BMW 64216918912 BMW HVAC Heater Hose - Genuine BMW 64216918912 1 $28.74
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...uuXNyL0Sug--~CBMW Heater Hose - Genuine BMW 64218409063 BMW Heater Hose - Genuine BMW 64218409063 1 $16.69
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...q5tztoAr8A--~CBMW Water Pump - Genuine BMW 11517586781 BMW Water Pump - Genuine BMW 11517586781 1 $152.20
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...GHXBC9CxQw--~CBMW Thermostat Assembly - Borg Warner / Wahler 11537586885 BMW Thermostat Assembly - Borg Warner / Wahler 11537586885 1 $48.34
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...ZXGhriyyqg--~CBMW Expansion Tank Hose - Genuine BMW 17127509966 BMW Expansion Tank Hose - Genuine BMW 17127509966 1 $51.82
https://ecp.yusercontent.com/mail?ur...xCOmGS4UoQ--~CBMW Radiator Hose Upper - Rein 17127526856 BMW Radiator Hose Upper - Rein 17127526856 1 $82.13

That list makes we weep... the first item (the main belt) is $100 alone here..... crazy!!

Believe me, my money is on the injured list.

Any chance you'll be at the Petit Le Mans @ Road Atlanta this weekend?

Was replacing both AC and alternator belt tensioners.
Upon installing new alternator belt tensioner, broke the main bolt...
Got the torque all too high...

Had to take out the oil filter housing assembly completely out of the engine bay :(
and just finished screwing out the broken bolt from oil filter housing assembly with ez-out.

Was replacing both AC and alternator belt tensioners.
Upon installing new alternator belt tensioner, broke the main bolt...
Got the torque all too high...

Had to take out the oil filter housing assembly completely out of the engine bay :(
and just finished screwing out the broken bolt from oil filter housing assembly with ez-out.

I always love when people choose to do it right once, as opposed to the piecemeal approach and complain that another cooling syst weak link failed soon afterwards. Good job!

The Zionsville Rads are a work of art but the costs! In 150K the costs are equal for sure. The lack of exploding expansion tanks is a pleasing thought.

for those who would like to know more: Zionsville Autosport – All Aluminum BMW Radiators, New and used BMW parts, CD-ROM Software Manuals, BMW Performance Upgrades

I am wrapping up a suspension refresh on my 528 that included so many parts that the shipping box from FCP Euro looked like a coffin.

Agreed. If I'm in there replacing something... Everything at that same mileage/age is getting replaced.

I had the same concern when I had the VSS done on mine. I was concerned about the Intermediate levers, but after checking the date stamp they were not in the affected range. However since I got the car back it hasn't done the weird idle thing.

I think we are in the minority of X5 owners....:thumbup:

I recommend going to a well recommended alignment shop. Cost of going to a good shop is not significant when considering what being even slightly off can do to tires or handling. I found a great shop many years ago that does some suspension checks before the alignment and lets me watch.

Agreed.

Yes sir. Running 2 Norma M30 LMP3 cars. Come by if you are here. :thumbup:

Come on OB,

No pressure but if you get over here we can run across the Empty Quarter like a combination of The Last Chase and Gumball Rally... [emoji593]

I will even bring a pork sandwich and liquid refreshments!!![emoji1787]

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:thumbup: I'm there from tonight, through Saturday. Work/collaboration thing with Porsche on data collection. Will try and track you down.

Spent about an hour replacing the driver/passenger window regulator. Motor was fine. Spent another hour removing the duck tape residue used to hold the window up for the past couple of months. The part off ebay fit/$19., but the top attachment bolt was too long and had to carefully squeeze between the glass and door frame. But it's done. Now, on to why I was low on antifreeze in OF bottle and finding replacement ClimateCM.

Qualified on the pole for tomorrow's race. :thumbup:

Congrats OB. Hope you're on the way to another podium finish. :goodluck:


2002 X5 3.0 367,000 miles
2014 428i 65,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

Congrats

Kohr motorsports (friends) looks to be starting 5th in the IMSA Michelin Pilot Challenge

A lot of my friends are actually at VIR this week for the SCCA National championships

Haven't done much on our X5 lately other than an oil change and a new set of Pirelli all season tires. I did however repair some light rust on my e39, here's the vid:

https://youtu.be/6XhrL0pjgBc

Led the entire race and driver made a mistake on the last caution and shuffled back to 4th. All in all a good season and finished 2nd in the 2019 IMSA Prototype Challenge Championship

The Nationals are HUGE. I ran the Nationals at Indianapolis a couple of years ago. I had a few customers there this week too. A busy week for sure.

Just finished an in-car head gasket job, This is my third M54 head gasket replacement.

About a month ago, I bought an ‘05 3.0i Silver on black that had overheated.
120k miles but in otherwise good shape with some maintenance done and 20-inch wheels

I have a spare M54 engine ready to go, but since access is so good in a 6cyl X5, and because engine removal requires replacement of front shafts and swapping oil pans, I decided to do the head gasket with engine in car. I used an engine hoist to lift/ reinstall head and exhaust manifolds together. I never even had to put the X5 on jack stands to access the exhaust down-pipe. I do have the dual vanos timing tools and an M54 time-sert kit (#1090)

I disconnected exhaust down-pipe, pulled the head with exhaust manifold, cleaned and time-serted block (taped it first), and installed a refurbished M54 head that I had bought years ago.

I then installed cams and lifters, re-timed engine, rebuilt and installed vanos unit, replaced hard water pipes & OFHG and flushed out the coolant-mixed oil as best I could.

I pressure tested the cooling system before installing the intake manifold
- using a gutted thermostat housing (new tool for me) and with 15 psi from a compressor through a bleeder screw threaded adapter.
- I am GLAD I did because the aftermarket upper water pipe leaked. I had a lightly used OEM water pipe (’16 date code ) and used that. No more leak.
- I was able to do this without plugging in any electrical connectors /battery and before installing intake manifold with new gaskets and CCV.

Before attempting a start, I pulled fuel pump fuse (#47 in glove box), and disconnected all 6 coils to prevent fuel and spark. Then I turned the engine over 8-10 revs to get the oil flowing. I then connected everything back up, primed the fuel supply, and it fired right up and settled into a nice idle. No SES codes !

I did have a 4x4 code, which I was able to clear by turning steering wheel lock to lock.

While the engine sounded good, it did have a minor lifter tick that eventually went away.
I then drove it 20 miles to my house with cluster test #7 unlocked showing exact coolant temp on the cluster. No overheating. Back at the house I replaced the passenger side drive shaft due to a torn CV boot.

I now have the car insured, registered and inspected. I need to solve a rain water leak in the passenger side footwell (likely vapor barrier), fix the hood release cable, remove the silly DVD headrests and replace with stock. I need to do a cooling system as well, but wanted to to wait until it was running. I also want to look at rear brake lines under the plastic cover and replace brake hoses all around.

My indy came out of retirement and serviced both the 4.8is and the 4.4 today. new oil and filters etc. Reset engine adaptions and transfer case adaptions.

Swapped out the plastic gear to and new oil to the transfer case on the 4.8is. Big difference to the smoothness of the drive line... only down side is we found the cause of the drive line whine on throttle over run.... transfer case bearings are on the way out.... bugger...

Found the power steering leak on the 4.4. Gotta order in a new line and get some extra o rings for the vacuum pump and vanos solenoids then no more leaks....

Both driving much better. Worked out that with 4.8is off the road so much have only done around 2000km over the last 11 months.... :thumbup:

Replaced the front passenger window regulator 3 weeks ago and both rear regulators yesterday. I must got the longest lasting rear window regulators on record - it lasted almost 16 years until the replacement! :wow: It could have gone longer, but I figured 16 years is a good run and just preemptively replace them since the X is now living outdoor.

^If you proactively replace the window clips/sliders... the regulators can list pretty much indefinitely. It's usually the torque being applied in the wrong direction from broken components that breaks the pulleys or cables on the regulators. I don't know for sure, I'm pretty sure I'm still on factory regulators on 3 of 4 doors. I also don't usually see window motor failure on BMW's. Happens, but not often. The one regulator I had to replace I swapped the original motor onto a used regulator I bought for ~$30, threw on new clips/sliders, and a couple zip ties for good measure. Doubt I'll have to do the job again.

^But now that I've said that... LOL, it will break tomorrow.

Man... I've looked at some almost new OEM regulators the wrong way and they broke.

You need a lotto ticket :D

LOL...I did threw on a couple of zip ties for the front too...I guessed better safe than...:bustingup, but can't do it for the rears. Had thought about just replacing the clips, but not sure if I can trust the qualities of those ebay clips...most likely 3D printed. Also, I didn't want to deal with having an unassembled door if those clips didn't work out...so I just bit the bullet and got the full regulator. Heck, at this rate, I may never have to touch any of the regulators again, if I still have the X for another 16 years!



I know, right? Very glad I had replace them. The clips on the front regulator essentially just fell out as soon as I had removed the window screws. Both rear clips were just hanging on by a tread...plastic cracked every which ways!

Just a wash today after the 700 mile run down to Atlanta for the Petit Le Mans race and then home back through Helen, GA for an Oktoberfest night and visiting Tallulah Falls and Toccoa Falls and the Georgia mountains. :thumbup:

Glossy!

Just replaced broken hood latch cable. My cable broke at the handle inside the car, as they often do. I had to manually unlatch hood by removing one grille, and moving a plastic shield (after pulling screws and plastic rivets out)..pretty challenging. the process is documented elsewhere, but the best tool is a long allen wrench with a short right angle in it. insert the allen key into a small nut driver with right angle pointing up and finds the cable mechanism to push on..

As for the cable replacement, remove screws on handle and dead pedal. To remove dead pedal (not well documented for E53 and different than E46 and E39) , pry up flat foot panel with small screwdriver and remove 2 bolts underneath. Then remove broken cable from inside car after pushing in rubber grommet at firewall. Insert new cable thru firewall from inside car and connect in engine bay junction box. Re-assemble handle and dead pedal..Good to go.

New suspension bits are on. Alignment fun starts tomorrow!

All lined up like pretty little ladies..

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...mall-copy.jpeg

Out with the 15 yr old, 140k mile parts that have served well..

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...mall-copy.jpeg

Annnd the pretty new part pr0n:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...mall-copy.jpeg

Buuut, I know what you're here for...:D Adjustable bits!

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...mall-copy.jpeg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...mall-copy.jpeg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...mall-copy.jpeg

Nice! Set that rear camber to -1 degree :thumbup:

Issat for best wear on the 315's? That's what I'm looking for. As long as it doesn't screw with handling too much. :popcorn:

Factory spec is -1.9 degrees. Good for carving canyons and wearing out the inside rears. I just drive mine as a daily driver so I didn't need the fast cornering setup. I split the difference with the factory spec and stood the rears up a little more. Gotta love the adjustability of the Hard Race or Thayer rear arms :thumbup:

today I attempted to repair my broken drivers lock and must say what a pita it was, the lock was broke in 2 parts, the long shaft and the bit that holds it, 2 hours later and a bit of swearing I got I back in the car

but seeing as Ive never had a working lock im not sure if its right
key goes in ok, but you cant remove the key unless its either unlocked or locked is this right? you cant lock it then return key to middle then remove
2ndly, when I lock the car now the drivers door lock judders, it locks ok but the little button on the top of the door card doesn't go down as far as it did???

ideas?

Something is definitely not correct. Sounds like your internal key cylinder is not indexed correctly. The key should only come out or go in when vertical.

Were you working on the door handle, the lock actuator/latch or both?


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Yes, something definitely wrong. I'd work on the lock before worrying about the actuator / cable / button thing.

The lock should work just as you would expect. Nothing crazy. Key should go in, turn left, turn right, not turn at all, and when the key is vertical you should be able to pull it out. BTW, turning the key: +/- 45* actuates the power lock/unlock, +/- 90* actuates the manual lock/unlock (e.g., if there is no power or the door lock actuator has failed).

When I fixed mine a few years ago in my 2001, only one part in the lock cylinder mechanism had failed. I bought the repair kit on Amazon (I think) for a few $$, and even though the kit all looked good, I re-used all the original parts and only replaced the one broken part.

Also, thinking about "what could possibly go wrong?", the kit may have come with parts for LHD and RHD, where one of the parts has two different types included - mirror images of eachother depending on whether it's the left or right door it's going in. Maybe you used the wrong one by mistake? Just an idea.

Finally, if you have ANY doubts, test the hell out of the door latch (e.g., simulating closure with a screwdriver) before you actually close the door. And maybe even leave the inner door panel off just so that if it gets closed and won't unlatch you are a little less stuck.

This was from this weekend, but thought I'd post anyway. Mouse and I represented the e53 well I think. Though we were definitely some of the more modern BMW hardware present. This was at a small vintage 5 series BMW event that we were "invited" to. Great bunch of guys, even ran into someone I used to run with in a car club some 15 years ago. Was a great weekend filled with some REALLY nice cars. Definitely didn't help my already rather bothersome itch to pick up an e28. And created a new itch for the e34 tourings. :confused: :rolleyes: ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/fR3X11Np/20191012_174148.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/0yLmvZ5Q/20191012_141832_HDR.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/q7yKvngG/20191012_141827_HDR.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/B63KL6Kf/20191012_141809.jpg

And a really poor quality video with some fun X5 sounds.

Looked like fun!

Nice!

Oh-oh... I’m wanting a late model E34 Touring again! Those cars are really nice

Totally agree. There was an imported e34 M5 touring there as well as a few E34 sedan M5's (one with an OE 4 seat setup that I didn't realize was even an option). A couple of e28 m5's and lots of other cool stuff. Possibly my fav was the green alpina E34 touring. I'll upload a pic later.

Goodness!

Love them V8's sound:D!

Betcha people were heads turning and in awe as soon you fellas drove off!

OMG!!! I'm gonna miss my 4.6is X5 with the Dinan goods and the magnaglorious sounds of the V8. Its a sad day my X5 sold today but at least it went to another BMW enthusiast that will care for the vehicle.

Ahhh...

She will be missed around here. Hopefully you still poke in to see how the rest of us masochists are holding up. :D

New hood release cable installed. [emoji849]

New hood pins/latches ordered.[emoji2959]

Left hand headlight sprayer waiting for repair from today's suicidal dove...[emoji15]

Probably that damn bird that I gave water to. [emoji848]

BMW = Bleed My Wallet [emoji24]

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BMW = Bleed My Wallet

Believe me, I know what mean.

So an e53 can take a ton of abuse in a car crash yet a 5oz dove at 135 kph leaves feathers and part of a beak (I assume) wedged under my sprayer like a freaking Pez dispenser!!
Yeah mother nature....[emoji107]

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Maybe apply a small sticker over the headlight washer mounting hole while you wait for the replacement? :nanana:

https://rlv.zcache.com/dead_bird_roa..._8byvr_307.jpg

Ha Ha

I'll have you know the bird looked nothing like that when I found it.

Could have buried it in a upturned headlight sprayer...[emoji1787]

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Oil filler caps and jack retention straps don't last forever.


Replaced those yesterday.


2002 X5 3.0 367,000 miles
2014 428i 65,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

My indy replaced the power steering hose that was leaking and changed over the worn transfer case oil/reset adaptions today on the 4.4. An hour and a half of labour for $100.... 1 Litre of oil and a new power steering hose....

repairs for under $200... :wow: !!

Radiator flush/new coolant
New hood latches/cables
New alternator
New belts
New spark plugs
Changed oil/filter
New agm battery
New FSM

So lately the back of the X5 felt unstable on road variance and hard braking.
Kept thinking yeah, I need to do the rear control arm bushings, they are probably worn out.

I really started to notice it the other day in a hard downpour running into normal hydroplaning areas on the freeway. The back just seemed disconnected.

I wondered about tires and gave them a good look and noticed the outer edge of my right rear was wearing ahead of the left and noticed some cupping.

Jacked it up and gave the wheel a lateral shove and Holy mother of God, it moved at least an inch.

Took the wheel off to find the tow arm had loosened up. I guess I hadn't tightened it enough when I did the Hard Race arms last year.

I tightened it up and all is good now but this is the second nut/bolt that I failed to get tight enough (front thrust arm was the first) even though I leaned on all of them when installing.

Note to self, stick to programming the race cars and leave nuts and bolts to the mechanics. :banghead:

So which bolt loosened up? The hardrace adjusting bolt?

Finished up valve cover gaskets, again. Did it about 3 years ago. Oil started leaking on the backside of the drivers side valve cover. Took it apart, the eccentric sensor in the back was barely hanging on. The inside valve cover half moons were broken as well.

Replaced the valve cover, gaskets, and sensor. No more oil leak. I must have did some damage the last time I did the gaskets. Such a PITA not much space to work with

No, the outer end of the tow link that connects to the hub assembly. It looks like a tie rod end. I suck as a mechanic.

Don't be so hard on yourself. You're just not heavy enough. ;) I have ZERO problems @ 240lbs breaking bolts by leaning on the bar. :D

But seriously, some Loc-tite is nice insurance for mission critical things like suspensions and brakes.

I'm in a relatively smooth sailing period with my X5, but had a couple things pop up. October was hunting month, so the X5 pulled my camper to far SE Colorado for 4 days of pronghorn hunting and then made one day trip elk hunting in north-central CO. The trip to the SE part of the state involved some REALLY dusty conditions so....

Changed out air filter (Mahle)
Replaced long-leaking selector shaft seal on transmission (more trouble than should have been)
Now at 8K mi. on last oil change, so ready to change oil and rotate tires.

Driving in the early AM hours on I25 yesterday, I couldn't avoid a "pipe" in the road on Sunday AM. It looked like a 3" diameter by 4' long piece of PVC pipe, but it happened so fast, I can't say for certain. It was a big thud under the X5, but I had little choice but to continue on my way (construction zone with concrete barriers and enough traffic to eliminate any options to stop). I can't see any damage so far, but...

I don't drive much at night, so it hasn't been a high priority, but my dynamic headlights have been wonky since I got the vehicle earlier this year. They randomly go up/down. I didn't worry much about it, as I intended to do some paint work on the X5 and the wife's X3, and intended to sand and clear the headlight lenses with the 2K clearcoat. Figured I'd address the wonkiness then. Alas, that paint project kept getting bumped and after the pipe-in-the-road incident, I decided I needed to go ahead and figure out why the headlights aren't acting right. A little reading up and about 10 seconds under the passenger side front end revealed that the height adjuster switch was broken and missing the linkage to connect it to the control arm. So, I threw $70 toward FCP Groton and soon I should have properly functioning headlights again!

That's it for now. Otherwise enjoying my E53 and happy to have joined the club!

AM.

Thanks CW. I can program race cars to win championships but apparently I have no business holding a wrench. Good thing my teams have professional mechanics. :slap:

Thank God the nut was a nyloc or it could have turned ugly in a heartbeat.

Glad you found the aiming hardware issue. Once you get it working do yourself a favor and aim the lights exactly 0°. Park parallel to a brick wall on the driver's side and cover one headlight so you can aim it until the mask transition is parallel to the bricks.

Then cover the other headlight and repeat. You will be mind blown when you see the difference


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I use to tell the car owner/driver that we were both better off when he would just drop the American Sedan(AS) car off at my place and let me prep it for the weekend vs him working on it and me fixing it all weekend at the track.

He won the NASA Championship in Spec Iron this year :thumbup:

Good advise. :thumbup:

That is a great series. I worked with Paul and Brian Fessler last year.

Can you elaborate? I don't know what this means.

AM.

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Properly aimed.

I'm in the USA so the driver's side is left. On RHD, they would be opposite where the left angles up.

Both lights have the same pattern so you have to cover up the one you aren't working on, it's not the left light lights left and right lights right.

Ahhh, now I understand. It looks like yours are very slightly angled up as opposed to true zero degrees? So this is a little higher than other traditional methods? Do you get flashes from other drivers?

AM.

I use a three times process. Tighten the bolts, check all the bolts from one direction, check all the bolts again going the other direction. Second and third step are often done using a torque wrench. Most of the time I gather all the bolts for whatever I am putting back together before I start installing them so I am less apt to miss one of the bolt holes. And, yes, there are times it doesn't work and seems to be increasing as I get older.

I will adopt your 3 step method bcredliner. :thumbup:

Step 1) Install suspension components and tighten.
Step 2) Go back over and really tighten everything again.
Step 3) Go back after 1 month and really, really tighten once again.

Not angled up actually slight down. The right side is angled up a lot. It does a fantastic job of illumination of road signs. In fact I am responsible for virtually ALL sign illumination. All other cars have their headlights aiming into the ground.

Studies have shown not one in ten cars have properly aimed headlights.

Especially bad now with projector headlights. People aim the headlights down as if the light comes out in a cone like incandescent lights and the projector mask clips half the light so the headlights light out maybe 100-200'

The light from my headlights on the left side never goes higher than the hood of an oncoming car so of course I never get complaint blinks.

Look at the picture with the yellow corner angles: they are about the height of a door handle of a sedan, a foot or more lower than eye of a driver.

I usually aim the lights so the clipping mask split goes out exactly horizontal. If I find any sense of dim on the road in front of me because I'm illuminating road far enough away I'm not looking there I will adjust them down a bit.




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They've also shown that most aren't even delivered new at the dealer properly aimed. You kind of expect they would be when you buy a car. Honestly, with as much as the state's charge for inspections/taxes... they should aim your headlights for you when you get it done.

Yes exactly not one in 5 cars from the factory have properly aimed lights. It was covered in the studies. Also, usually when a DIY or mechanic touches it makes It even worse.

The BMW method of aiming is not bad but probably still uses ideas from 1950s or 1960s to aim down 1/2 ° or more to avoid blinding oncoming cars but as is clearly demonstrated from my photo above the light above the masking plate is reduced 95-98% and is a total non-issue above the level of a hood of a normal car.


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It's a significant vehicular safety hazard possibly as big as the 3rd taillight and way more than the now legally required TPMS.

Think about it: literally 90% of drivers don't have a proper lighting of whatever is in front of them. How many animals or kids are run into simply because the driver didn't see them of their own fault not having headlights that light up what they can avoid rather they light up what they are about to run into but can't do anything about it

Hell, they don't even have to aim them for you, if they would just FAIL those with incorrectly aimed lights so that they're not blinding everyone I would be happy with that.

Yes it should be part of safety inspection

Over here they use the peg board and string to aim center headlights....

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Yeah, that sounds like a great idea, have the average car owner aim their headlights. What could go wrong? :stickpoke. This is the same average car owner who thinks it's acceptable to drive with their brights on because they have a low been out. Talk about a safety hazard. Drives me nuts.

If the inspection stations don't want to do it, which is understandable. Dealers are (should be) more qualified anyway.

Customers aren't the ones who ultimately fix their car when the inspection fails usually, save for the DIY'ers. I would prefer the inspection stations aim them but in the end, I just want someone to aim them. LOL Maybe I'll just start a craigslist ad and do it for free. It'll be my public service until I get murdered. It's weird how people get pulled over for dark tint because it's dangerous to drive with, but blinding oncoming traffic is ok.


Oh, changed engine, differential, and transfer case oil. :rofl:

Front CV axles are next. :swear:

Hoping to work on some ICE with crystalworks this weekend.

If cars could be failed due to improperly aimed headlights, people would be greatly encouraged to have their shops/mechanics perform that service prior to inspection. With increased demand, the shops would become well-versed in the procedure and more cars would be properly lit. Seems like a good idea to me. Although where I live, we have no vehicle inspections, so.... easy for me to say!

AM.

Very rare to be aimed too high 80-90% aimed too low. I see maybe 1/100 that are aimed high or just off road illegal bright (like solid light bar)


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HAH! You haven't been to Texas in awhile. Every 3rd truck is lifted with -20mm offset wheels sticking out of the fenders with an LED light bar in the grille, one on the roof, and HID's retrofitted into the headlight housings with no projectors. :rolleyes:

Yeah Midwest it's rare to see offroad lights powered on illegally (though I do have some offroad led flasher bulbs in my rear corners that are pretty blinding bright )

We did both diffs... :D Poor Xfer case fluid was in poor shape.

Would be nice to work on the audio setup for a weekend. I'll see if I can get a kitchen pass from the family. But I don't think I'll hold my breath. :(

Pulled and install a fuel pump, fired right up, 60k and it died right in the drive way after a wash and detailing. I have had the part for some time but other projects hit in the way, like an entire suspension refresh on the 528i.
Now I and running up and down the highway cleaning off the rotors from sitting so long....
Time for another detailing.

Installed double USB ports. Modified the ash tray for what I think is a pretty clean installation.

Nice. Outside observer would think that is factory

Thanks! That's what I was shooting for. :thumbup:

Bullseye. What part for you use I may want to copy I like that you can close the "small parts tray" when not in use


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Agreed, looks like a very clean installation. Nice work.

Looks great!

Nice. I went with the single USB for my Avin Avant-4 in the cigarette lighter receptacle.

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...522_133557.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...522_140948.jpg

Nice! Looks clean.

I modified the small metal part that holds the little plastic cone that I assume is for putting out cigarettes. I removed the cone, pulled the metal piece out and flattened out the long side that hangs down on the right side. Pounded the bend flat then cut a hole for the USB port. Cut off part of the extra metal that was hanging out after installing the port. Drilled a hole in the bottom of the ash tray and fed the wires through the dash and up into the glove box to plug into the usb ports for the Avin Avant 4 unit. I'm loving the Avin unit, by the way.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b44d998ec4.jpg

Replaced wife's aux water pump today.

It's 10f = -12.222 c outside right now and until today the car would not output cabin heat unless rpm above 1500.

What a huuuuuge difference! I also used the "rest" feature to keep the cabin a little warmer while I was unloading groceries

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Getting ready to do all the bushings and ball joints. And as is usual anyone I have ever helped is ‘busy’ and can’t help me... FML


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anybody know what i should do i have 03 xenon front headlights want to get new assembly with angel eyes can i down grade to halogen led or do i have to get xenon hid for my lcm to work with it ..

next question my lcm has glitch my rer right taillight is out from lcm not triggering it on
also front left turn signal stays on with lkey out of ignition lcm problem again correct.. these are 500 online i saw someout in ill refurbishes them for 275

any other ideas or cheaper way

Thanks

Give Andrew a shout. He's an electrical guru!

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Hoping the kiddos can keep it up long enough to finish the rear bushings too. Front wasn’t that bad but appears to be only about 30% of the project.


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Had to take the White Witch all the way over to the other side of town for a little lift time.

New rotors, pads and alignment (3rd in 18 months) Yeah Saudi road maintenance!!

Burned the rotor dropping from warp to wheelchair speed in about 100 meters [emoji28]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ad6a375dd1.jpg

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https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/8db1d02...Pxfv_oW2S.copy

https://i.imgur.com/17cDWNY.gif?noredirect

Can't even imagine trying to slow down that fast if I had an aero kit [emoji1787]

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Update:

Found out I need motor mounts and gearbox mount to go along with the vacuum pump..

I should have gotten a rickshaw...

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It is only parts and money. Cheaper than a car payment

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

HELPPPPPPPPPPP

MY REAR TAILIGHTS WENT OUT

prolly my lcm my tailithgt was out prior to this and my front left blinker light stayed with key out of ignition.... but I have a res hesler ibus app i was messing around with
at some of the features and my tailights went out completly my brake lights work but my rear lights are out... anybody know if i can recode the lcm with the ibus app to get lights to come on do i have to reprogram it [email protected] email me please

You can unplug the iBus adapter and see if the light issue is caused by the Ibus adapter settings. If they are still out with the iBus adapter unplugged, then you will need to send a blank .man file to the LCM with NCS Expert.

How did you get there?

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Completed full bushing / ball joint refresh. Every single on other than tie rod ends that were replaced about 18 months ago. Biggest project I have taken on with this beast but it drives AMAZING NOW!


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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Deleting because tapatalk screwed me up and I posted in the wrong thread

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bhennrich awesome work! i see your X on the lift I hope you torqued the thrust arms with the vehicle loaded under its weight.

I gently snugged everything in my garage and had the alignment tech torque all the loaded bushings when on their 4 post rack. Thankfully the alignment shop is only 4 blocks from my home.


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Prepping for my new retrofit 4.8iS front bumper currently in the paint shop. I tested my new front PDC harness and 4 used PDC sensors. I had to reprogram the PDC module for 8 sensors from the 4 in the rear only and plug everything in. It was literally a beep fest holding all the sensors pointed up without triggering on the ceiling of our garage. Ended up appointing the wife as my assistant :rofl: In the end, everything showed good and patiently awaiting the call from the paint shop letting me know it's ready. :thumbup:

Next up will be the $700 in front flares. :banghead:

Pretty boring, but between ducking in/out of the house to catch the Broncos game (also pretty boring), I changed oil/filter, rotated tires (5 wheel rotation with full sized spare), and roughly adjusted headlights to aim higher. My nephew took the E53 skiing at Breckenridge Saturday with 4 other USAFA Cadets. The driver's window regulator died on him. Arghhhhhh.

AM.

Routine work
 

Took the wifey's X5 to the local Euro wrench and had the front radius rods replaced (bushings were shot) and new motor mounts installed. Idles like a Rolls now instead of a jalopy. :cool:

Had the X stumble HARD while into it like it was thrown into 1st gear and then show MAF with 2.9cfm....

Ran a little rough so unplugged MAF and it idles fine but gives moving misfire under acceleration cylinder 4, 1, 3, 7 but never at the same time. With MAF back in it runs without misfires but only if driving like Miss Daisy. Hopefully my spare MAF will cure it but let's be honest... when is anything simple these days [emoji848]

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This sounds like the exact problem I’m having. See: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...f-plugged.html

It’s not the MAF. Still need to experiment next week, but I’m 90% sure it’s a bad VANOS solenoid.

Swap the vanos solinoid see if the fault follows

I had this happen:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...31538920c0.jpg

My lock cylinder decided it would keep my key in the lock position. A broken part fell between two moving parts and jammed the key

I knew my lock cylinder was due for replacement guys so I had the kit in my glove box for when the cylinder finally died.

What is “the kit in my glove box” part? I think I may need one of those as my X is aging and keyless has stopped working. We have to use the key to lock or unlock every use and it is daily driven


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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

The key stops working when the solder traces fail inside. I revived both of my keys by reflowing the solder.

A-Premium Door Lock Repair Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQQQE80...p_mob_ap_share

Can you link a thread about this? I have never heard of this problem


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Yep that's the plan. Hoping to have time to experiment with it some more next week/weekend.

In the meantime, unplugging the MAF -OR- any of the VANOS solenoids sets it back to stored parameters and it run normal (well normal enough).

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I've posted about this any time somebody mentions that they think their key battery has failed (spoiler alert it's never the battery).

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0S5kuVsbYSr6d
My album from when I fixed mine

https://www.themasterlocksmith.com/p...mw-key-repair/

Here is an example service to repair a wonky key.

It's almost never the battery. But if you are in there with the soldering iron... change it anyway. ;)

Yes absolutely. Look at my photo album, it shows how to measure the voltage through the buttons. Just make sure to get the correct battery with the correct pin alignment


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Changed the oil & filter this morning and then Washed the X5! Both at the one year cycle. A whole 345 miles this year. Interesting how nice an 4.8 idles with fresh oil. Tucked her back under a cover as rain is expected. Now that everything is fixed, I will add a few more miles before the salt man comes...
Next up fuel filter, drive belts and tensions, idlers, and a good buff out and wax. Cam sensor multiple seals also on the list. So many parts, such great first gen engineering exercises. Well as these X5 age we will all get the chance to try out all the common repairs these beasts need.

If your keyless stops working a simple thing to try is to reprogram again. Its happened on similar vintage E46 and E39's to me.

Brad

If your keyless stops working a simple thing to try is to reprogram again. Its happened on similar vintage E46 and E39's to me.

Brad

Installed a new Xenon igniter...

$53 online installed myself in 15 minutes..... as opposed to (quoted) $490 +Tax + labour through BMW dealer ... for an E53!!!!!

:thumbdown

That's why they call them stealerships.

Changed out the secondary air pump. SES light has stayed out for seven engine start cycles now so it looks like it was just the pump. Quick replacement once you figure out how to get to the front bolt on the mounting bracket.


2002 X5 3.0 368,400 miles
2014 428i 65,400 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

Sneaky that bolt is inside the fender. I just pulled the fender skirt out of the way not sure if there is another way.


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I reached underneath the pump with a short, 10mm box end wrench in my right hand, guiding the end of the wrench over the bolt head with the fingers on my left hand. A couple of swings with the wrench and the bolt was loose enough to take out with my fingers.


Toughest part was separating the plastic air hose fittings.


2002 X5 368,400 miles
2014 428i 65,400 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

I replaced the radiator.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

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That's pretty cool you got to it from above. A+

See above. I used the brute force method from below.

Also: I replaced the whole assembly so I didn't have to disconnect from the filter. The hose to the sap valve didn't fight me at all.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-94...hi&sr=1-5&th=1


This is an AMAZING DEAL. I have all of these doubled so I am not ordering but I paid WAY more. LOVE these wrenches!

Yes I have it. Your code is *TAKEYOURSPAMANDSHOVEIT*

:beerchug::beerchug:

Routine work
 

I had the local indy BMW wrench ( https://www.hanswittlerautogroup.com/ ) replace the motor mounts and radius rods in the front end (the rubber bushings were shot) in my wifey's X5. Total bill was about $1100. It sure idles much smoother with the new mounts. I had the work done week before last and promptly drove the X5 to Vegas and back with the wifey for the Thanksgiving holiday with my kids. I got the dreaded 4X4 and suspension inactive warning twice but cycling the ignition cleared it. My BMW guy wants to reflash the entire system (as he put it) to try and fix these intermittent faults. :cool:

loads
 

Had my head in left side of tank..dreaded stuck gauge problem.
removed seat module.
Give my tiger claws a quick touch up.
Tomorrow i am going to sand and buff front and rear lights.
stick the m sport badges back on the wheels.

Not had the x5 a week and problems.

Thank you
dave king UK:doh:

If you bought e53 it's at least 14 yr old. It will require constant upkeep but not necessarily that difficult nor expensive.

Example. Wife's X5 alternator just quit output voltage at low RPM. I refurbished mine two years ago same problem $20 kit to replace the slip rings and back in business.

Search awr-fix: in title to find the repair for left tank sender unit

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"Fixed" my 'time to replace brake pad' light.

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"Fixed" my 'time to replace brake pad' light.

:thumbup::thumbup: