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-   -   FIXED: Return of the P0171 and P0174 (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/93637-fixed-return-p0171-p0174.html)

upallnight 08-20-2013 12:41 PM

Looks like you might need a new Alternator. First PDF file list the voltage at 16+volts for 732 rpm. That quite a spike.

diddy0071 08-20-2013 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight (Post 952706)
Looks like you might need a new Alternator. First PDF file list the voltage at 16+volts for 732 rpm. That quite a spike.


The Alternator is new. I bought it and installed in Late February, early march. Cost me $220 @ Autozone.

Do you notice or see anything indicating the issue I am having with the idling and power issues?

on that same note, I was reading on another thread about the fuel filter. The fuel filter I replaced was about a foot long, with an equal sized one. Reading up, I saw that the fuel filter for my X5 should be a smaller one (about 6 inches) Could it be possible I installed the wrong part? Could it be possible that I connected the hoses wrong on the fuel filter as well?

diddy0071 08-20-2013 08:59 PM

So can anyone see why my car is acting up based on these scans?

upallnight 08-21-2013 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diddy0071 (Post 952710)
The Alternator is new. I bought it and installed in Late February, early march. Cost me $220 @ Autozone.

Do you notice or see anything indicating the issue I am having with the idling and power issues?

on that same note, I was reading on another thread about the fuel filter. The fuel filter I replaced was about a foot long, with an equal sized one. Reading up, I saw that the fuel filter for my X5 should be a smaller one (about 6 inches) Could it be possible I installed the wrong part? Could it be possible that I connected the hoses wrong on the fuel filter as well?

Just because it is new doesn't mean it can't be BAD. If you brought it from a autozone, it just a rebuilt, repackage alternator. If you brought the Duralast it may have a lifetime warranty. I would get that look at or else you're gonna fried some other electronic components in the X.

As for the fuel filter when you removed the old filter didn't you compare it with the new filter? Didn't your filter come with a regulator? If you put it back in the same way you took it out you should be fine.

I would check to see if the cats are still good. An engine that doesn't rev could be due to a clogged cat. A misfire is a sure way to ruin a cat. Look on Youtube for methods of determining if the cats are still good. There is the pressure method and there's a IR temperature method.

GL

diddy0071 08-21-2013 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight (Post 952846)
Just because it is new doesn't mean it can't be BAD. If you brought it from a autozone, it just a rebuilt, repackage alternator. If you brought the Duralast it may have a lifetime warranty. I would get that look at or else you're gonna fried some other electronic components in the X.

As for the fuel filter when you removed the old filter didn't you compare it with the new filter? Didn't your filter come with a regulator? If you put it back in the same way you took it out you should be fine.

I would check to see if the cats are still good. An engine that doesn't rev could be due to a clogged cat. A misfire is a sure way to ruin a cat. Look on Youtube for methods of determining if the cats are still good. There is the pressure method and there's a IR temperature method.

GL

Wouldn't anything show up for a bad cat? A code, anything?

bcredliner 08-21-2013 01:38 PM

Can't help you on reading codes.

At this point I think you need at least one expert opinion diagnosing the problem while directly attached to the computer. That way if there is a way to verify the code is accurate it can be done at that time. Codes can be symptoms rather than causes.

That is not to say that you or others here are not experts. The reason is you have already spent a lot of money and for whatever reason the problem is still there. Time for an expert to get up close and personal. I think that is the most cost effective and shortest course to a solution.

diddy0071 08-21-2013 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 952913)
Can't help you on reading codes.

At this point I think you need at least one expert opinion diagnosing the problem while directly attached to the computer. That way if there is a way to verify the code is accurate it can be done at that time. Codes can be symptoms rather than causes.

That is not to say that you or others here are not experts. The reason is you have already spent a lot of money and for whatever reason the problem is still there. Time for an expert to get up close and personal. I think that is the most cost effective and shortest course to a solution.

I think it is time for the mechanic call then. fml. There goes my christmas savings.

diddy0071 08-21-2013 01:44 PM

On a side note, I did order a fuel pressure test kit yesterday through amazon ($40) so I can at least check the fuel pressure again.

In the end, these tools I am purchasing will be helpful in the future, so it's an investment more than anything.

TerminatorX5 08-21-2013 01:47 PM

the sofware is definetely useful, even on newer bimmers.. the cable can be used on other brand cars with their software... i still can't pull the PDFs on work computers and did not have a chance to do it while at home... if i have a chance tonight, i will try to look at your PDFs...

diddy0071 08-21-2013 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5 (Post 952919)
the sofware is definetely useful, even on newer bimmers.. the cable can be used on other brand cars with their software... i still can't pull the PDFs on work computers and did not have a chance to do it while at home... if i have a chance tonight, i will try to look at your PDFs...

Did you see the video links? The PDF printouts are pretty much what is on the video.


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