Sorry for being a pessimist :troutslap:doh: :)

Trying to figure out why it wouldn’t start after an oil change. After 4 tries it finally started running. Seems like the fuel pump relay wasn’t closing. Checked the fuel pressure and it was 75psi, higher than I thought but pressure at spec.

Might just swap in a new relay to avoid future no start issues.

Do you have any photos of your Meyle adjustable upper control arms installed?
Which direction did you adjust them to gain more negative camber ? The ball joint closer to the arm? I’m going to install same arms , but I’m a bit confused as the direction marked on the arm seems opposite…:dunno:

Making the arms shorter gives you negative camber so you loosen the lock nuts and push the top of the tire in essentially. I adjusted all the way negative and got -1.5 degrees of camber. Handles great but now the inner tread is wearing faster. Might adjust towards the middle of adjustment for about 1*. I’m on eibach sport lowering springs by the way. Lowering also gives it a bit of negative camber also.

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Minor remodel with the help of a fawn that though he was faster than 50i. Internally a few broken tabs that hold things together. I see windshield adhesive in my future.

The replacement lens only come in pairs. Anybody need right Amber relfector for 2011-2013 e70?

It was only approximately 1.5 seconds from when the deer popped out of the woods until impact. I only had time to coast.

Just came out of a curve and decided much better to hit the deer than risk a car from behind coming around a curve at 50+ to find a parked X5 in the driving lane.

I had enough time to take my foot off the gas and look in my mirror to assess can I hit the brakes. Impact was before I had eyes back off the mirror.

The reflector might be the least expensive trim part on the entire car. Definitely a best case scenario.

Three is a tiny bit of paint "crows foot" at the corners of the lens opening but not enough to worry about repairing. Some windshield adhesive to glue parts where tabs broke and a new lens it'll be a nearly good as new fix.

It's a misnomer that neg camber wears the inside. I've driven 75,000+ miles with 1.5-2.2° and even tire wear until the ball joint and wishbone arm wore out then the tire wore though the steel belt in under a month.

Get the toe adjusted after making 100% sure your ball joints including on the wishbone are perfect. The toe should be almost dead straight. Very slightly inward prob so when loaded under braking they end up straight.

The tiniest play in either of those ball joints will cause "toe out" every time you brake. This is the primary cause of inner edge tire wear.

The hardest part of checking for play is you can't have spring forces on the joints.

I’ve replaced the thrust arms in addition to the upper A arm. Also had toe aligned close to zero, ~.02 degrees in.

I suspect it could be underinflation of tires or bad suspension links but I wasn’t surprised to see the amount of inner tire wear I saw with about -1.5* camber in front. I think -1* will be a good balance of wear and handling.

What have you done to your E70 today?
 

July10 - LiquiMoly oil change, filled def, new engine ground cable and front brakes (pad slap only)

July 27 - glow plugs(6), glow plug controller, engine air filter, engine temp sensor, new intake gaskets, front diff fluid,

Aug 2 - brake fluid flush

Aug 12 - rear brake pads, sensor and rotors, + one new DS rear caliper because of a bone head move nicking the caliper piston boot. & in cabin micro filter

Aug 13 - who wants to buy it?

Aug 14 - main cabin filters and an Interior detail

Aug 15 - if not too hot out I may tackle the turbo oil return lines (oil return line had a loose hose clamp! 15 min fix! I,ll check on it again in a week or so. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4a91eff0ce.jpg



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Well I am chasing a random error which either means I need a charge pipe sensor or a retune -

Ordered a charge pipe sensor to cover my bases - will update if I need a retune -

Rear right soft close actuator and door latch assembly replacement.