Did just purhase the cheapest X5 ever?

[theblue]

thanks,
window already fixed (exactly what you said)
will know how the front suspension is once I get it back, I still think it's the thrust arm bushing that was shot but on the hub side.

[theblue]

got the X5 back earlier today. It cost $105 to get the bushing replaced and said it was a big pain to get it from the hub.

I couldn't get it inspected because I didn't have enough miles on the car since replacing the MAF so I have to drive it for a day or so and take it back.

The other bad news is that I need to get the front driver's side control arm and tie rod replaced because they are showing wear despite no torn boots. (I already ordered these for like $80 shipped). The air suspension wires were a little more hacked than I thought so I need to work on those if I want to get it all working again.

I replaced the rotors and this got rid of all of the pulsing. The whole front feels a lot tighter now, but I can feel the need for the control arm and tie rod.



so progress, but a long way to go still.

[Dark5yde]

all those front end parts will be bad again next yr. lol buy doubles. I'm down to 1 piece before my front end is brand new again.

[theblue]

yeah, I know what you mean.... most of the parts are not original on this thing anyway at this point.

Did you ever notice that the more things you fix with suspension stuff, the more things you find because you can now feel something different.

[Dark5yde]

Originally Posted by theblue

Did you ever notice that the more things you fix with suspension stuff, the more things you find because you can now feel something different.

Absolutely. You should find my multiple page thread on front end issues. Every single part I changed resulted in having to change another part. Finally down to my final piece.

[theblue]

Subframe Bushings ORDRED
blunttech x4 $117 shipped
FEBI Subframe Mount - Rear,W0133-1665412 - Blunt Tech.com

Ball Joints - HAVE

Integral Link - $20 x2 $40 shipped
BMW Integral Link - FCP 33321090030 | FCP Euro

Guiding suspension link x2
$37 x2 shipped = $74
BMW E53 Control Arm X5 3.0 4.4 4.8 REAR 00-06 NEW L=R | eBay

Wishbone Left
$47 shipped
BMW E53 Control Arm X5 3.0i 4.4i 00-06 REAR UPPER LEFT | eBay

Wishbone Right
$47 shipped
BMW E53 Control Arm X5 3.0i 4.4i 00-06 REAR UPPER RIGHT | eBay

$503 BLAUFERGNUGEN package ORDERED
BMW Shocks - BMW X5 Shocks - Blausport BMW X5 Shock Absorber Kit

Rear Pads + Rotors blunttech $78 ORDERED

[epdarks]

Nice progress. It looks like the shocks did the most monetary damage, but not too bad in the big picture. Your truck will ride completely different after those new parts. Keep us updated!

[theblue]

So I took my first road trip with the X5. I went 3.5 hours to meet some friends for camping in PA. It's an event called leaves and liquor and we always go to a state park this time of year and have a blast. I don't like camping so much, so I decided to sleep in the X5. I'm 5'10 and fit just perfectly in the back. It got down into the 20s on the first night so I appreciate the insulation of my iron tent. Much more room than my A3.

The X performed pretty well, I really like how it corners on the twisty back roads for how big it is except for super tight turns.

I did notice that it stuttered a little under high load situations so I'm going to put in new plugs and a container of chevron techron and see where things go from there.

I average about 21mpg for this trip.

[theblue]

So I need some advice.

I definitely need to do both valve cover gaskets and maybe the valley also, but I'm going to hold off on that since I'm not losing coolant fast enough right now and I have plenty of other projects to get done.

I looked at the how tos for the valve cover gaskets and it looks easy enough. My question is do I really need to do the 22 gaskets for the bolts holding the cover down? They don't look perished on mine and I don't think they are the source of any leaking. I know I didn't bother on my E36 and didn't have any issues.

thoughts?

[Skyline]

Originally Posted by theblue

So I need some advice.

I definitely need to do both valve cover gaskets and maybe the valley also, but I'm going to hold off on that since I'm not losing coolant fast enough right now and I have plenty of other projects to get done.

I looked at the how tos for the valve cover gaskets and it looks easy enough. My question is do I really need to do the 22 gaskets for the bolts holding the cover down? They don't look perished on mine and I don't think they are the source of any leaking. I know I didn't bother on my E36 and didn't have any issues.

thoughts?

Yes, get those gaskets. You will not achieve correct torque values with used bolt seals. The may look good, but chances are, they are pretty hard.

I just did this job, and I can tell you that the ONLY hard part, is getting the driver's side cover back in place without disturbing the pressed in gasket. The semi-circular pieces on the gasket that stick out and fill the camshaft clearance holes just want to catch on the top of the valvetrain as you're reinserting the cover. The tangle of heater hoses that reside on that side of the engine is just too much in the way, even if they are pulled back. After quite a few attempts to get it on right, I ended disconnecting all those heater hoses and pulling them fully out of the way.

So I would say, be prepared to partially drain the coolant, and get all those hoses that connect to the firewall fully out of the way from the start. (Have some blue BMW coolant on hand!) While it does NOT say to do this in the Bentley book or the DIY video I watched, believe me, you will definately have a MUCH easier time of it if do this. Also, I would have on hand one of those large telescopic inspection mirrors. You can not see the back of the engine at all, so you need some way of making sure the gasket is properly seated before torqueing down the cover.