Still going after the annoying wheel shinny. Just added to the list of replaced parts. Sway bar end links, just ordered the sway bar bushings. Replaced front struts, and out new tires on since my ones seemed to cup from the bad struts.. wheel getting it.

I'm very convinced I am getting poppinjg noise from my steering wheel coupler as it has a lot of play in it.. this could also be feeding my steering wheel wobble.

My vehicle vibrates really bad when I'm anything over 50 mph. They said it would be my guibo which is fine but I'm assuming I would replace both of them? Since we do have all-wheel drive

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Moved a bit of crushed rock:

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The two bins on the back could hold about exactly 1/4 of yd.³ (about 270kg). Almost exactly the max tongue weight of the X5. Air suspension worked perfectly. Was funny though when. I unloaded because of the strange angle with one wheel off the curb the car would creak a little as the air came out.

Not to worry EOD, still using carburetors in 2019 with my other team in the Trans-Am TA class. ECR SB2 875HP running a single 4 barrel.

Wait, you work with Lawrence

use to race with him back when he ran American Sedan in SCCA in the late 90's

OB, don't forget my offer to perform a road test across Arabia for you... just saying [emoji57]

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recently started to experience a hard brake pedal... replaced some of the easier components that had age on them, such as the lines and pump and well, that didn't help and ended up needing to replace the master cylinder and brake booster..

didn't have the kit to bench bleed the MC, so bleeding this boy was a LONGGGGGG process.. still requires some more bleeding but she stops now.. lol

To bleed them correctly you need to have something like the NT-520 and use it to activate the ABS. I recommend that you get one or something similar that will read, erase, test and show live data of your BMW. It will pay for itself ($120-$140) just in time saved or keeping you from paying the stealership to read your codes.

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There is only a small amount of brake fluid in the ABS pump. Unless the master cylinder has gone dry in the bleeding process or there is a problem with an ABS line, the DIY bleeding by the manual process or the several tool options for pressure bleeding will be fine. On the other hand, the NT-520 or a good quality scanner should be one of must have 'tools' for a DIYer anyway.

I own the nt-520 and ran the ABS function.. tbh not sure what to do once its activated.. I even purchased/used the Schwaben brake bleed tool and the rear lines never filled the hose from the bleeder like the fronts..

even did the traditional pump the brakes and hold, release etc....

any direction/further advise is appreciated!