Looks like GNK has fallen off as well. My genuine boot from 2018 still looks fantastic. I think genuine is probably the best solution for fixing it right the First Time. However I am sure somebody has probably had some issue with that choice as well. But so far genuine parts have been the best solution for me personally.


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21

Same problem I had. Couldn't get the outer CV back on. The snap ring just would not cooperate. Also, if you have the boot off and move the CV just the wrong way the bearings fall out and then you have puzzle getting it back together.

I read somewhere, maybe here, to keep them clean with WD40 occasionally. It will keep them from cracking prematurely. Anyone have experience with this?

As far as the the X5 today - she got a new AUC sensor. I got sick of looking at that code and broke down and ordered a new one from FCP when I was on their site restocking door push fasteners and various rivets, blind and otherwise for the wheel wells, cowl, interior bits, etc. Popped it in, cleared the code, ran some tests and voila, the X5 is as clear of codes as it has been in 10 years. A transitory state I'm sure.

The only one I have is the 4.6 only code for the vacuum activated extra intake flap which opens at high RPM. I wonder if I am loosing any real power without that function operating? I've still got my 4.4 intake tract, filter box, etc. and all the air pump hardware is gone and coded out (this same system triggers the intake flap on the 4.6 models).

try silicone spray for rubber
 

WD-40 has a different spray for rubber WD-40 Specialist® Silicone Lubricant. I've used regular WD-40 on doorseals and the like, and I think that they get dried-out over time. The petroleum distillates/penetrants may tend to remove the natural oils in the rubber. I'm also wary of Armor All (due to my old S-10 dashcover cracking, despite weekly usage of Armor All for 10 years).

AT-205 Is what I would use for rubber treatment to keep soft.


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+1 on that! Brilliant stuff (although it's getting hard to find and is getting VERY expensive - currently NZD$300 per litre!!)

Works really well in ZF 6HP26 transmissions too! ;)

fresh alignment and trunk lid hatch, luckily for the 2004 3.0i all I needed to do was unscrew 4 screws and now the rear lock hatch works great, initially the trunk was only opening via the dash and key fob

added some LED bright white license plates lights with it too

replaced intake boot, noticed a minor whistling at 1.5 RPM's inside the cabin, easy cheap fix, no more annoying whistle :)

Shocks, brake upgrades. The disks are massive... calipers don't clear the original 19" wheels. The 20"-s are currently due to being re-coated.

Whoa. What brakes are those?

I just got my brakes and rotors done as well, can't keep praising how well Akebono brake pads have treated me, def recommend them