Here is how it stands currently. I definitely do notice the left hand beam cut off higher then the right. It does make it noticeably more comfortable cruising in the fast lane which is where I usually am. But, I haven’t had much time driving on two way streets to see if there’s any issue blinding people. It doesn’t look that significant but you never know.

I do need to figure out this lighting issue on why the drivers side headlights isn’t consistently working. My buddy thinks my lcm might be faulty. But let’s see.

If you have dynamic headlights, I think only the passenger light aims left and right.

To aim your headlights, point your car about 25' from a light colored wall, helps if there are reference lines like a garage door with rectangles.

The center of the hot spots should be pointed straight forward so what I do is line the wheels up on a perpendicular groove in the driveway, then measure over from there to put some marks on the door at the horizontal distance.

For the vertical, it's easy if your driveway is flat (can be angled just planar): measure the height right outside to the transition point on the light output. Put a piece of tape at the same height on the door.

Aim the DRIVERS SIDE transition point to be just barely below that tape.

This will set up the best output: you won't blind anybody in a car that court l costs less than $300,000 USD. (Supercars that are short enough to be in the bright zone that's just par for the course for them)

Notice how in the photo above, the bright zone never gets higher than the posts; they are about the height of the bottom of a windshield of a normal car so the bright will not blind incoming cars at all.

I have dynamic xenons and left and right headlights both move up/down, left/right.

So it's a misnomer that one side is cut off vs the other; each lamp projects a nearly identical beam 4' apart from each other. About 50' away there's almost no difference at all.

There has to be something very very wrong for one side to affect your beam pattern like you are describing.

To confirm if there's a problem with one or the other side, park aimed at a light colored wall about 50-60 feet away:

Now stand in front of the car and block one beam vs the other there should be almost no difference in the beam pattern from the right or left lamp.

If there is find the source and fix. Eg if one beam is high/low or right/left, work on fixing that.

A big problem with hid is that they dim exponentially as they age and need to be replaced in pairs. When I bought my car, PO had replaced only one lamp and the other was very blue and about 80% dimmer just moronic.

They were also aimed into the dirt as as over 90% of cars on the road. HID need to be aimed close to zero degrees not down even half a degree: since there is effectively zero output above the shadow plate, the math works out terribly for those miss aimed headlights.

If for example your headlights are aimed 1.5° down then if your headlight centerline is 30" off the ground you will have zero light past 100 feet when you should be illuminating at least 300' with low beams.

Virtually every car I see makes two bright spots less than 60' from the front of the car and studies have shown that as bad as it was ten or fifteen years ago, with HID lamps it's gotten exponentially worst. The last study I read gave 8 out of ten cars an F and only B and C for the remaining two cars.

I've been setting my headlights at zero degrees since 1996. I can see 3 to 8x farther than average. I strongly encourage anybody to copy me.

Here is an example of real world for me:

As I'm driving down the highway and I notice that the highway signs seem to be backlit they are so bright: there can be 5 other cars near me but if I blink off my headlights, the illumination of the sign goes away entirely.

It will seem weird at first if you are accustomed to bright spots on the ground right in front of you but a blinding spot close to you is useless compared to even illumination hundreds of feet farther!

Minor misspeak: I believe I saw in the manual that though both headlights aim left and right only the passenger side will aim left of center. I'm not sure if either aims left of center (right of center on RHD cars). The idea of course is that the lights won't aim into oncoming traffic. If I'm incorrect that would be good since if the road is curved, the centerline is farther left when curving left.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Followup:

Just found this online:

That makes more sense than not turning at all past centerline.

Now I'm envious of the folk with adaptive lights. I guess another bucket list thing after dynamic drive.

Started to rectify various issues with our new (to us) 4.8is. It's the better half's car as she wanted a V8 again...Engine is strong, no gearbox issues and pretty low mileage (the car lol)...

It's been sitting unused for over a year (outside also) so has some maintenance to do to get it back up to standard.

The boot lid catch wasn't working so I swapped out the one on my 4.4 and the struts that were buggered until I get replacements.

Gave the seats a work over with some leather conditioner as they are dry as..gonna need a few goes at this...

Now got a list of rattles to deal with inc the window blinds to the rear passenger doors, a rattle up around the sunroof somewhere, a loud 'clunk' when we open the sunroof and some suspension issues. We are finding that the seats don't lower when they go back to the memory settings but put that down to key batteries flat.

I've started the recharging them on the oral b stand trick to see if I can get them back but no joy so far...

Also have a loud grinding noise in the steering wheel region (not suspension) which I think has something to do with the clock spring area....

It collapsed on the nose the other day so had a look at the sensors... one somehow angled downwards in the lever so undid it to make it the same as the other side.
https://xoutpost.com/members/lvr-alb...3-14-08-29.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/members/lvr-alb...3-14-07-50.jpg

Bought it pretty cheap so we're not at all put off by the things that need to be looked at.

https://vimeo.com/290405715

Mine definitely don’t move left. Maybe some speed is required? Broken?

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Yes forward motion required*. The computer takes into account how fast you are moving to determine how far to aim the lights left and right. The formula is pretty complicated. Perhaps not as complicated as the algorithm for adaptive headlights for motorcycles which lean angle has to also be factored in.

* For some functions like how far left it aims.


I'm pretty sure my foxwell will test the lights (I only have leveling and it will send them full up and down on command). They also go through a calibration when the car is turned on you might be able to see the reflector move when first powered up.

:iagree:

Air Suspension fault SOLVED!!!

Took the some time but found the cause of it falling down on its nose... suspension sensor itself on one side was not generating a signal during operation. My indie tested the signal output and nada.... replaced it and all good.

We've bypassed the ride height switch for now as the compressor is on its last legs and only good enough for ride leveling... need to get another and then all good..

Scored some Clear/Euro headlights on German Ebay! Xenon+Dynamic!

I was about to pull the trigger and buy a new set from Uminitza for almost $1300 but decided to check ebay again one last time and albeit I'm buying LEFT & RIGHT from different sellers but still....=) TGIF!

Nice! How much did it end up costing?

Both with best offers accepted plus shipping for both it will end up with a total of $696.62 USD But these are complete lights with ballast, bulbs, and all.

Can you pm me part numbers so I can compare and see what I have.

That’s a great deal!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow that awsome!

Yes and hopefully I can sell my US versions to recoup something back =)

I have been itching to pull the trigger on the Euro headlights as well. The stock amber corners just don't look right with Imola.

Exactly, orange clashes too much with the red. Had to be done lol

I love the stock ambers. I want to know how to make my angel eyes brighter yellow.

Maybe something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yellow-LED-...item4b4e88c24b

Oh nice I swear I’ve looked but just forgot. Just ordered. Thanks.

Happy to help!

I don’t mind the ambers either, just not on Imola or any red in general.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Registered my plates! BMWЯ is officially street legal* again!

After months of O2 heater hell, and replacing my rear brake lines, terrifying transmission hiccup, clean bill of health he's back to life! (Do have to fix the door handle carrier but that was back burner while the car was on the DL)

* Ish I suppose; I don't have the sticker yet that will come in the mail, but the cops run the plate more than look for the color square. Legal to drive not immune to police harassment so I guess it's kinda like probation: don't stand out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Replaced my cracked exhaust manifold, EGR gaskets, glow plugs and glow plug controller. Quite a task list!

(see original thread for write up and pics...)

I brought it back to life :)
both rockers on, no leaks, jobs a gud un
(posted on e53 outpost) on facebook, :)

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9a32bd7550.jpg

BMWЯ is back in business first day after getting plate renewed.

That's 192 SQ. Ft. of R38 insulation and 7 10 ft long 2x6 up there. (Another bag of R38 inside as well)

So I confirmed my euro xenons installed are. It bi-xenon so they do not have the auto level feature. I got the drivers side light working by coding the soft check monitoring back in on startup (1 of 2) on Carly. They are now working. I will prob still search for a bi xenon set. But in the meantime I’m very happy with these.

Awesome ride Andrew, Congratulations on getting back on the road. I hope to be up and running this weekend and thanks for your suggestions on my suspension.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Congrats! Always feels good drive them again after needing work.

I'm still going through this... Have a new bosch unit spliced in... have done it twice to verify all good. I have yet to get live data though as other cars took precedence, but hopefully that will point me in the right direction. Truck runs great other than that so it has been lower on the list... I'm sure you know how it is. ;)

As for the thread, did TONS of work to the e30 and a bit to the e70 as well. But nothing to the e53 but drive it for a change. :D

My O2 heater didn't work until I unplugged both post cat, started the car got new error, plugged both back in and started the car without clearing codes. The pending code for no O2 never tripped the SES and no more errors since


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

fitted mk4 dvd sat nav thingy, and a hybrid tuner , which was a pita to swap over.
Steve had a good day today :)

Just a simple car wash today. I never get tired of looking on to our X from a distance. Timeless design.

definitely is.

Got new kidneys in yesterday. Plastidipped and installed. so clean. need to do the hood vents now.

hey, Overboost did you buy those blue side mirrors aftermarket?

bought new Nokian Haklka 9's studded (265/50R20's) for my BBS CH-R 20x9, 24ET wheels for winter. Not putting the wheels ON just yet, but at least the wheel/tyre combo is ready for install as soon as the white shit flies

No, those are factory mirror glass. Must be the picture exposure, they are not blue.

Expensive winter setup with BBS CHRs! Nice!

I thought the same, those are some expensive winter setups loo but I love CHRs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Wrap my door handle. Previous owner must of wore lots of rings lol

Before:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d7f8982d0f.jpg
During:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c294982c99.jpg
After:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...99803c0717.jpg

It's not perfect but any means but gets rid of the eye sore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Wait. How did you get it off the door

Top effort! I've gotta take my cards off to fix the armrest so might do this at the same time....

What materials did you use?

I had to take off my door panel off again because the cable came off from my door carrier so I decided to tackle it this time.

You have to take off the panel in order to remove it.

Pop off the decorative cover and two bolt and nuts holding it to the panel. Have to hold the nut from the other side.

I used matte vinyl wrap I bought from Amazon by a vendor called vivid wraps?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I was under the impression that the handles were non removable. That’s sweet. Next project for sure!

On the 4.8iS new CVC and front end bushings!!
Air system now working although I still can't adjust ride height till the resistor comes in..

On the 4.4i polished headlights (4 hours) yesterday.

Brother and sister photo op and they both need a bath.

2005 4.8iS
2005 4.4i https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...89b0fd51f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2e2adb8be3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eda776f962.jpg

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fffc8665fd.jpg

replaced my lcd in my monitor , bit fiddly but easy to do :)

That is awesome. Very nice work. Going to have to try that myself. :thumbup:

Originally had replaced the left ccv as it was torn with a dorman part from Autozone and right side was fine so left it as is. The cap from dorman fit a little big so I had to reuse the old one.

It was smoking pretty bad still so decided to order 2 Bosch CCV and new "cold climate" hoses just to be sure it wasn't leaking.

At first it was a success, left it idling 2-3 min and revved and no smoke!!!

But after trying again there it was again :(

Much less smoke but still there.

I guess it's my valve stem seals or maybe residual oil still burning?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Rear brakes: Rotors, Pads, and calipers (pins, clips, bushings, sensor, bleeder screws, dust caps all replaced) cleaned and reinstalled. New SS Lines Rear flex lines, Hard brake lines under body panels, replaced and system bled. Clear all codes and replaced Battery.
Replaced both upper rear control arms and Sway Bar links.

Well, not that long ago I had the guides replaced on our 4.4 X5. Car ran great for a few days then the valley pan took a dump, so it sat in the driveway for a few weeks until I decided to fix it. Reason I didn't do the valley pan while having the guides done was because a friend of mine had traveled up to do the guides and was on limited time. Anyways, I wrapped up the valley pan yesterday after spending a few days and a few hours at a time working on it. Man I missed driving this thing! I ended up purchasing a 2012 4Runner to satisfy my need for overlanding excursions. Big tires and a lift so far but I still enjoy both rigs.

That's a BIG day... ! Well done... looking good... :thumbup:

Transmission filter and fluid change. No metal shavings/debris in the pan and old fluid look pretty good. Fill plug was rounded off a bit, replaced that and the drain plug with new ones. Anticipated that, glad I bought them ahead of time

Oil change and filter, changed the oil level sensor as well.

2004 3.0i

nope, I bought them off a guy for $1000 cdn with great bridgestone blizzaks that I had removed so now I can sell the bridgestones :)

I swear I say I won't spend a extra dime more on her

Just started compiling the main list

New carpet mats
Lower hatch support
Left Front and Rear Vapor Barrier

The chores on this thing has not stopped !

nor will it ever. that's the fun.

LOL. For the 1st 9 years, I kept meticulous records. Excel spread sheet, maint. log. Manila folder was like 2 inches thick. I stopped keeping track a loooong time ago. Sometimes I'll search my email for parts I might have ordered to have a reference point of what might have changed.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Changed tension strut bushings on wife's x over the weekend what a chore. Impossibly rusted in parts.

A couple tips for somebody that has to do the same:

1) just buy complete arms with bushings.

2) see photos how I was able to use impact tool to remove the bolts

3) not terribly difficult to lower the truck to tighten the bolt. Better than try to guess how far to lift the rotor and hope you don't lift the truck off the jack stands

4) the ball joint will spin when you try to reattach the wheel side, use a hex wrench to hold the ball from spinning when you tighten that bolt. See 3rd pic.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b38e2c5142.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8ceaea58cb.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...32d9053efe.jpg

I removed the few screws that held the inside of the fender so I could access the big bolt with a couple wobble bits.

The right side had an air duct that I loosened as well the left side didn't.

Spark Plug Service!
https://i.postimg.cc/GBSRY1v5/IMG_1142.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/S2BpT7TL/IMG_1144.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/yggHyrPY/IMG_1145.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/tnFGLZwK/IMG_1149.jpg

Found out why one of my brake lights wasn’t working. Easy fix.

https://i.postimg.cc/y8ypXVYp/FB03_C...A2_BD601_B.jpg

Easy-ish. Note that likely the plastic holding the metal had melted so the contact doesn't have the full force anymore. I rebuilt wife's when this happened. Cut off the plastic rivets drilled out so I could use stuff tapping screws and put some thick rubber under the metal to keep pressure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just coded my e53 2005
 

Just remove usa mark signal light and fog light with high beam

2002 X5 Manual Sport
 

New to us and already have a love hate relationship. I replaced front passenger door handle with not much problems. How ever the rear is giving me a challenge. It just don't fit right. I am going to change the rubber from the old unit and see if this help, as suggested by someone on this site. Next I replaced the cabin filter which was a breeze. Next up is finding the oil leak, I tested the PCV and it seems ok. It's got a lot of miles 196,750 on it but it seems in ok shape. Just hope it doesn't become my nemesis.

My problem was I didn't get the top of the carrier under the lip on the rear door skin. Try leaning the carrier at 45 degrees towards the door as you push it up into place from the inside.

I never let my pads get to the wear sensor, but it caught me this time :(

I havent put rotors on it since I have owned it so figured it was time

meyle rotors all around with Akebono pads and a new rear sensor :(

Need to do an outer left side CV boot too, need to get then done soon and an oil change this week if the weather cooperates as its rain rain rain in the forecast

Got an alignment finally since I already did front drive axles and bushings and bearings. Front was toed out a bit but the rear was all kind of wonky. All back to spec now though and steering wheel straight as can be.

It's funny you should mention the steering wheel being straight.

I had mine off last summer to replace the blower motor since you had to take the dash completely out... was half present putting it back together and the wheel it tiled about 25 degrees to the left. It was annoying at first, but now it's a comfort -- like the necker nobs from back when, have it at just the right angle to get hold and turn. Lol.

My OCD would kill me while I drove

I understand 200% -- OCD about everything else.

Wife can't stand it. I couldn't at first but honestly haven't had the time to get back in there.

That alignment you got last week, would you say well over due?

Awesome! I've done similar goofs and just went with it. Example: repaired a keyboard and put a couple key caps in the wrong place. Decided to leave them for the humor.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah I did the ball joints and bushings about 6 months ago. The steering wheel was only off about 5 degrees so it was tolerable.

Respectfully, this thread is intended to simply state what you have already done to your X5. It is not intended to be a discussion, conversational or troubleshooting thread. It's easy to private message members with comments or questions rather than potentially annoy members with off topic posts.

Well after reviewing several threads here and watching youtube. I tackled the rear door once more. It started off as an OH #$%^ because the door would not open from outside or inside. HA I said. I already studied the YOUTUBE video where someone had the same problem and was able to remove the door card with out damaging it from the inside. I carefulle got the door card off , no damage. was able to push the mechanism very hard to get the door to unlatch. Now for the fun part. I removed the rubber from the new unit and placed the old units rubber on. Then I removed the cable portion of the new assembly and put the old cable portion on the new unit. I carefully measured the old and new cable. the new units cable was 3 / 16 shorter than the old cable. I also noticed a significant difference in how the rubber seated on the new unit which was different that the old unit. After some component swaps to the new unit, Making sure I got the unit under the lip of the door. It fit like a glove with no hesitation of installation or binding. Due to the fact that I had to remove the back seat portion to get the door card off, I found about $3.50 in coins, lots of gummy bears and a pile of trash. I got that all cleaned up and for now the doors are lubed, functioning and happy. Next I need to find the plastic covering which layed on the floor. AFter many years it just disintegrated. I want to thank all who help out in these forums. As an avid euro exotic collector, sites like this are worth every penny. I hope I can help in the future as you all do for everyone. Thanks

:thumbup:

Hi, i replaced my tension strut arm and my lower arm about about 2 weeks ago (2006 x5 E53 3.0I) you mentioned lowering the car to tighten bolts, i tighten the bolts while it was still on the jack stand, will this cause a problem?? should i redo to bolts while the car is on the Ground?
thanks.

When bolting down the bushings if you do it in the air, then put it on the ground the bushing gets twisted, not a lot but the procedure is to do it loaded so the arm is as close to a normal position as possible.

I normally put a jack under the outer most point I can get it on and lift the car to the point of just being off the jack stand then tighten the bolt down.

Very important to tighten on the ground. You can get to the bolts with the wheels on I just put the car on the ground turn the wheel a bit each way then tighten the bolts. You will see a big "spring" when the torsion is released If you tightened on the ground. I snugged mine a little too tight during assembly and saw quite a twist when I lifted the axle side up onto the ball joint (before I loosened up the main bolt to release the tension)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Replaced fuel pump on my 2006 X5 4.8is. Failed at a stop light last week. Pretty straightforward job requiring a 10mm socket (4 nuts) and a hammer and large screw driver to spin ring holding pump in place.

Took me a few minutes to figure out how to get new unit to sit properly with new gasket installed. It wouldn't press in all the way. Fix was to press gasket in place with pump slightly out - once gasket installed pump unit pressed right in.

On a happy note fixed the rear seat heater too. Turns out the harness was unplugged for some reason. Plugged it in and voila - warm seats. Easiest fix ever!

Headlight refinishing. Driver's is still slightly "blurry" for lack of a better word, but much better than before. It was semi dark by the time we finished, so I'll grab some after shots tomorrow.

I wish that was the reason mine wasn't working. :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gasket goes onto tank not the pump. If you put on the pump and try to install it's very difficult if not impossible.

I wet the gasket with a bit of gas just before pressing in makes it very simple

Ordered a set of DEPO headlights and LED CREE bulbs. About time..

Replaced all, bushings, CV axles, and upper/lower control arms. STILL getting a damn wobble in my steering wheel at 50+/while braking.

My brakes look like they were recently replaced so I will start with front rotors next.. perhaps there is a small warp. My wheel isn't flaming after the interstate or would think it was a caliper.

I did the same thing chasing my wobble braking from speed. Did you replace the ball joint that your lower control arm mounts to?

https://youtu.be/SIBppxXXNKc

That's the only one I have no replaced... i hear it is a PAIN to get off. True or untrue?

It is a real PITA, I just attempted to replace the ball joints last weekend and miserably failed. On top of that I stripped one of the two bolts attached to the driver side BJ.
I had watched that video and it is way oversimplified IMO because it did not show how much hammering was needed. Now I’m probably the worst DIYer out there too, but will try again sometimes this week.
Overboost did you successfully removed those BJs?

I did not replace them myself but I have heard it can be a lot of work. The arms alone corrected 95% of my wobble but 5% remains so I have them on my list. I have read that any wobble at speed is directly realated to these ball joints. I think it depends on the suspension components and how "weathered" they are. I know some of the northern guys have a real issue with rust on both the bolts and the joint removal.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I just tried replaced the bushings In the thrust arm and other than the impossibility of pushing in the new bushing sleeve pulling the arm off the ball joint taper was by far the most difficult part of the job.

75 minutes of BFH hammering I got the first one off.

Pickle fork is probably the proper method but for the second one I sprayed some release spray on the joint, and used a long crowbar and the BFH to pry from the top. About 8-10 solid swings with a 3# hammer and it popped off.

The video shows pre-tension with a prybar where I pounded then hit the side of the thrust arm. I would maybe try that in the future but the downward force has to be a lot.

Impact ONLY to remove tight bolts or expect to round them off. Cut a square head with Dremel or right angle and use a spline socket with impact to remove.

In our experience the ball joint on the other arm (lower/back?) Control arm always the cause of higher speed wobble like when gentle brake from 50mph.

Thanks for the tip andrewwynn

2 Questions..
When you say code your LCM, are you just turning the error on the dash off?

Also, I have WinKFP, what exactly do i need to do to do a soft upgrade?
What differences are you expecting?

Ok so now you have me thinking.. My wobble is also when I brake which makes me think it is still the rotors but my car has been in Florida all it's life.. My tie rod ends came out super easy which tells me there is not a lot of corrosion..

Maybe i should give it a go.. I cannot afford to have the car on stands over stripped bolts etc since I sold the e46..

So it's the BJ's or rotors....
Someone also said that OReily's will turn your rotors for $10 a piece? I am calling them today..

I would not turn the rotors since the probability of squeak will be there afterwards. However, just putting them on the lathe should show you if there is any runout.

Warped rotors will cause steering wheel shake. I have turned over a thousand rotors in a prior life, even had my own lathe, and I no longer recommend turning as it just reduces the meat on the rotor-makes it thinner. These vehicles are heavy and create a lot of heat, a thinner rotor is more prone to warping after turning. Now, if you drive slow, and do not carry a load or tow, then another story.

I would look at the suspension, so many bushings there that become old over the years and all E53s are now at least 12 years old. My 4.4 had 196k miles and when I swapped a few bushings, huge transformation, and very planted when braking.

Warp rotor the shake will be always just different amount but will never go away.

BJ wobble is a very specific type of wobble. Very evident at gentle braking from 50 mph for example. Also gentle lane change will cause a subtle wobble as the wheels cross over center maybe just 2-3 shakes.

I have the beginnings of such wobble I already bought new control arms didn't install yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Front rubber mats arrived. Will be installing when snow enters the forecast.

Got em. Super happy with the 20w amber Vs the white EBay and a few weeks wait.

Yes!!! First mail shipment arrived today!!

New up and downstream o2 sensors going in tomorrow. Still have hope that the resistor is sitting at the stealer waiting for Saturday pickup. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e2f2db2867.jpg

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Returned the DEPO headlights... junk Angel eyes and I am not going to spend more $$ to break open the headlight and take the risk of a moisture leak..

Cant seem to find any affordable projector headlights with an OEM look and good LED angel eyes for these cars..

Nope. Custom is the only way to get what you are describing unfortunately. And performing the surgery suckssssssss!

Lightwerks in NJ may be able to help you. Not sure his prices but definitely sounds like a custom job

Replaced the tail lights a few months ago... the lights were always a bit intermittent, so after 200$ of factory lights from Car-Parts.com

I found that the tail lights had actually melted due to poor ground... unfortunately I made the mistake of using bulb grease when I put them in. Sometimes they worked sometimes they didn't. Went out and bought a tub-o-towels and gave everything a good wipe down and got the bulb grease of there and they work like new! DON'T USE BULB GREASE

I just finished my timing guides and vanos seals, after driving for around an hour, no codes, inpa shows the vanos is working and seems happy, no more rattle, I'm quite happy about this but it was a real pain to do.

the worst part were the oilcheck tube and the power steering pump (the bold behind the alternator that nothing can get to. The only way I managed was to pull off the lower timing cover with the timing pump still attached and moving it enough to access that bolt.

I also had issues with the webasto heater and the coolant lines running all over the place, I had to take it out as well as a few coolant lines at the bulkhead.

I used the chinese tools to set up the timing (blue case) and they could be massively improved by adding a cover plate that would prevent them from moving off the head so easily. If there is a next time, I'll try to make one up that holds onto the oil plates over the cams. I also had to grind the vanos socket as there was a ridge inside from bad manufacturing but that was easy.
If I hadn't bought those (because amazon prime made it quick), I'd probably go for the german auto solutions kit as it seems easier to use.

After the fact, I wonder how hard it would be to simply pull the engine out to do the job, it would make it soo much easier and pleasant.

Overall it took a month but I'll be honnest, I spent most days not touching the car, I did videos of the process for reference and maybe youtube if I can find the time and I've got 20 hours of video all in. Now I know what needs to come off and how, I could probably shave 5 hours off that time.


TLDR; don't be afraid of the timing chain guides, just be patient and check everything 3 times.

How many miles on your 4.6?

260 000km which converts to about 160-170k miles I think. The timing guides appear to have been original.

Just arrived at a junkyard with a matching topaz blue X5 and a couple others. I'm gonna have those sports seats, that black headliner, the paint-matched bull bar, and whatever else I can think of!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Very angry... Been looking for sport seats at yards and none are anywhere decent shape!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

^You guys are lucky. I have NEVER seen an X5 in the general yard at a PickNPull. Maybe you have to pay to into the "special" yard?

Yeah, it was actually advertised on Craigslist. Called the guy and he has a small shop/yard with a bunch of crappy auction cars lol. Just so happens the place is far enough from the city that nobody has really bothered the "foreign stuff" haha. $250 for a pair of nice sport seats [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-N950U using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Wow that's a great deal! I'm here in Florida, wonder how far that is away from me if he has another set?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Replaced the rear cargo cover. The one I had was good, but a little saggy on the driver's side. It's for sale if anyone is interested.

:rolleyes: Went to drive it @ 6:45AM for an MRI appt... and was greeted to battery warning indicator. :dunno:



Will troubleshoot later... have to go over to my parents to hang a door for them.

Battery sign while car is running would be alternator on it's way out no?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Might be. You can check voltage with engine running by unlocking the cluster or with multimeter. Voltage should be approximately 13.8 to 14.2V. Essential tools for DIYer should include good multimeter.

Finally installed the door handle carrier on driver’s side rear door.

Agreed on the multimeter. I can't live without mine.

It's the alternator. Getting 14.3v - 14.4v with engine running. But every now and then it dips down to 13v ish so I'm guessing the voltage regulator is going out. Carly also pulled a code for engine generator so I'm guessing it logged a code for the alternator too.

Also got codes for steering angle/yaw sensors but going to do those after alternator in case those were voltage dip/spike errors.

Is that at idle? I checked mine today and at idle it was steady 13.8v


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

13.8 is ok

What did I do to my E53? Loaded up the family, drove the 4.8is all over, Dinan exhaust and intake singing, pure pleasure. No issues, smooth, and pulls strong. It is next in line for an oil change. Been a long time since any unscheduled service. Very happy with her.

Engine running at idle should be a stead 14.4v ish +/- a couple tenths of a volt. Mine was dipping down to ~13.2v at some points. 13.8v is not going to hurt anything... but it should be higher than that. Did you have any accessories going? I test mine with AC off, lights off, etc. Radio I leave on usually. The computers start to get unhappy in the low 13's and really get pissed in the 12's.

:iagree: Check with all current drawing stuff shut off.

Well all up and running for 1 week and I had to replace the driveshaft center support bearing... I swear (all the time) that when it rains it pours and that's saying something over here.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

The horrible bolt behind the alternator is easy to do with a through hole socket. If I didn't have that I don't know how I could get it off and on. Done it a few times now. I'll try to find a picture

The dipstick tube is not that bad you have to find the right direction to get to it (I think I got it from the front). The right combination of extension and swivel is key.

People that have pulled the engine say it adds 6-7 hours and can be worth it for the ease of doing the job. My ¢¢ is that you will have a very hard time applying 350 ft·lb of torque to the crank bolt when the engine is not attached to a 5000 lb counter weight. Even the 135 ft·lb on the cam shafts could be difficult on an engine stand.

I used timing plates from GAS German auto solutions and they are held down by the oil distribution stud. Works perfectly.

You can get vanos solinoids off by loosening the timing cover and reaching inside with a 27? mm open end wrench.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...27941afa99.png

The yellow arrow shows the obstruction that disqualifies a normal socket but the through hole socket goes into the ratchet and reduces the height by about 7-8 mm. Even that is a very tight fit to get in there however. Get a through hole ratchet set if you need to do the job it will pay for itself on that one otherwise impossible bolt.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...42d823f84.jpeg

Crescent X6 kit it's one of the best tools ever made. Not just through hole they are spline and bite into the fasteners like you wouldn't believe.

The reviews often complain no 16mm in the kit but there is a 5/8 which is the same.

changed the alternator
 

Only had the X for a few weeks. On the day I purchased it the battery died and the previous owner replaced it before we could test drive it. Everything was fine then but a few days later I kept getting an intermittent battery light. It would come on and go off after a quick restart and would not return until like later in the night or the next day. Tested the voltage and the alternator was only charging around 12.2volts, not enough to sustain life for the big 4.8 and all the electronics. Swapped out the alternator and I had a huge improvement in the overall drivability of the X. Used to get some hard shifts and random warning lights but that's all a things of the past now. Shifts are smooth and power is definitely greater with the new alternator. I'm even happier now with my purchase. :thumbup:

Bought a non running 4.6is as a donor to take parts of it =)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

While not today, but my seasonal update. Bought new Snow tires for my 17" set-up and replaced the overflow tank ! (along with cap and ATF thermostat). Air filter.
She went past 200K this summer !

Dropped off the winter rims for fresh rubber.

Not today but recently flushed old PS fluid out and replaced with CHF11s and a matching new reservoir saying CHF11s to eliminate any confusion.
Today...coolant pipe and valley pan...
Soon after..valve stem seals. And I hope I’m done with repairs til summer.

Replaced another door handle carrier - this time front passenger side. In 3 years I had to replace them in 3 doors. The driver door twice! The only door missing is the rear door passenger side. This is getting really annoying and I hate taking the door panels off and on.


Ordered a new screen for the board monitor yesterday from China. Its getting black spots. This screen lasted 3 years only. And while I was on it I also ordered a replacement laser unit for the MK4 in the trunk. Its started to have issues as well.

I recently purchased both of my X5's. Both needed timing chains and some general "going over". The Black Sapphire X5 has 161K miles on it, and the Silver Metallic X5 has 126K miles on it. Both vehicles are 4.6is's and are in pristine condition aside from the mechanical issues, which do not scare me at all as this is what I've done for a living for 30 years. I bought the black one first here locally and after investing several hundred dollars in the tools to repair it, I decided to buy another one (the silver one) to make better use of all of these nice, expensive tools.

I finished up the timing chain job on the black one. It runs and drives excellent, except for the token P0741 code from the torque converter starting to go out. Nice... I'll be pulling the converter and sending it off for rebuild while I'm at SEMA next week. I also replaced the driver's front door handle, and while I had the door panel off, I performed some general maintenance on the window regulator (cleaned and lubed guides and tracks).

I replaced the passenger front window regulator on the silver one, and gave it a quick once over as I had literally just pulled it off of the trailer from the journey from Portland, OR the day before. One nice thing about this car is that it came with pretty much every part required for the repairs that it needs. The guy I bought it from was planning on fixing it himself and had purchased nearly everything it needed (including the window regulator), but some health issues caused him to change his mind.

Nice to see enthusiast saving a couple beasts :thumbup:

Welcome and congratulations!

There is a 4.6-4.8 thread that you might want to join.

I'm not the seller, just browsing 4.6is for sale on craigslist and stumble upon this 10600 miles 4.6is for sale. i dont believe the mileage either, but if true some lucky customer is going to find a good truck:

https://southcoast.craigslist.org/ct...731133251.html

Read my thread about the tweak that will eliminate most DHC breaks. It's a design flaw that causes most breaks because stupidly the lock tries to hold down the handle when locked rather than "dry fire" (let the handle lift and do nothing )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

106k miles, I asked. Not a bad looking vehicle

They are out there. I would not doubt the mileage.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Picking up my 4.6is with my 4.8is =)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f9acd7a16c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

after replacing my full front suspension and still having a deadly wobble on steering wheel. I took the next step and picked up meyle HD rotors and installed them. No more shake after 3 months of diagnosing on my free time.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Wobble only when braking and wobble frequency proportional to speed almost always out of square rotors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I instantly assumed that I needed the front suspension replaced anyway because of how old the car was. My fault on that one.. rides smooth. 189k.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Follow up on the braking wobble: my car wobbles when braking softly when about 50mph (80kph). I can get a very subtle wobble when steering past the center (most obvious when making slow lane changes). In my experience this is always the ball joint in the control arm. (Not the thrust arm).

Hard braking will force a loose ball joint into a locked position so the wobble goes away. Also the frequency of the wobble is not speed related.

Wobble frequency changes with speed and stronger when faster and pronounced when braking firmly it's always the rotors in my experience. (A previous car of mine was Z28 Camaro and I had plenty of experience with rotor shake with that car due to some heavy brake use: I've had the rotors hot enough you could feel the heat like a campfire when you walked past.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Have you checked the tires.
I've seen tires with broken bands cause death wobbles on trucks, and folks always assume it's the suspension.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My tires already needed replaced so I went ahead and did those as well

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

this was my exact issue. My car would Shake anything over 70 miles an hour and it would Shake anything under. That's where shops and opinions would go to the suspension system. I was not convinced that a rotor would make my car shake that bad without even touching the brakes. But that was the case in this.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Pulled the transmission on the black one today to send the torque converter out for rebuild to fix the annoying P0741 code. I think I'll go ahead and go through the transmission while it's out (I own a transmission shop), upgrade to the HD "A" clutch drum, replace the "F" clutch piston, freshen the clutches, and make the necessary valve body mods. It shifted great, but at 161K, and with the transmission sitting there waiting on the converter, it only makes sense to tear it down and freshen it up.

I also replaced the rear air springs with Arnotts today. A pretty trivial job, but it will be nice to not have the LR bleed down every night. With the load off of the rear suspension, I was able to check the rear suspension for the usual wear and tear. Sure enough, upper and lower ball joints were loose on both sides. New parts ordered, and should be here by the time I get back from SEMA.

For the 2nd time I tore into my air suspension compressor :(

The first time was for a piston ring replacement a la Bagpipin Andy. Got me working for a while but I could see the cylinder bore had some scoring and I was hoping for the best, but it was not to be. Here is the scoring of the bore that I had going on and the piston ring fit very loosely at the opening of the bore.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z-...0=w673-h898-no

The suspension codes just kept coming and I knew the piston ring fix wasn't holding things together.

So today I installed a $22 complete cylinder head replacement from China

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Air-...a6f54c4djoKYNk

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB10Z1Nn...-E53-A6-Q7.jpg

I got some surprises in the amount of rust that had occurred inside the unit and how much less spring I have left in my unit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qe...I=w673-h898-no

Here is the new component cylinder head and the pieces that must be swapped over from the old one. Note the rust signature in the silver cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iW...=w1196-h897-no

Cleared the codes and so far so good. A complete 25 mile drive without the suspension code being thrown.

My unit is a 2003 vintage (2002 build) and has 113K miles on it, so one might want to go the full monty of a cylinder head if you desire a more long term durable fix. :dunno: :dunno:

Mike

Washed the X and started my trip to jeddah and..... it RAINED!!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...22fa31ae57.jpgHow loose Crude oil likes to stick to a clean car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d8ee451be8.jpgsign of "civilization " [emoji38]

Sold my last e30. :( The convertible. Sad weekend.


On the X, big red got a wash finally after 2+ months of rain. Now that she's clean I pulled off the replica ACS spoiler as it had started lifting. The beta link is awesome stuff, but the paint job done on the underside was not as good as the OEM imola and the beta link pulled it off allowing the spoiler to lift. As a fix, I took most of the paint off the spoiler and dremmel'd some crosshatching into the bottom of the spoiler and the top of the hatch to allow the beta link more bite and something to really hold on to. Was too tired to get the weights and everything to actually reinstall as I had a long day working on house projects... but at least it's prepped and ready to go.


Also read my codes again... bad o2 heater circuit persists on post cat driver's side. Going to look more (fuses, wiring, etc), but might have to just bight the bullet and buy a unit that does not require soldering. The passenger o2 is doing okay though it seems and is of the same bosch universal 4 wire variety. Maybe I got a bad one... who knows.

Performed some maintenance over the weekend

CCV BreatherHose (Cyl 1-4) Replaced
CCV Breather Hose (Cyl 5-8) Replaced
Pressure Regulator Valve Replaced (2)

Changed the transfer case fluid.

While doing that I saw that the driver's side outer cv boot wasn't clampled on right.

No rips it was just off the shaft. Had to use a regular worm clamp for now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This morning my fuel pump relay finally failed.

Had happened couple times where in cold mornings it would just keep cranking and not start. Had to crank 2-3 times and would fire up again.

Googled the symptoms and lead to the fp relay going bad so ordered one on Amazon and just had it laying around as it wasn't doing anymore (got bit warmer)

So luckily had it on hand and had to do it this morning. Drop the glove box and drop the fuse box to access the green relay and done.

Seems to fire up instantly now where before it would take slightly longer (talking milliseconds here lol) and car also felt more responsive and cured the rough idling but could be all in my head and more seat time is needed to see.

Here is the relay I purchased:
OES Genuine Fuel Pump Relay for select BMW models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G7INQ4..._GUf2Bb2X52NAJ


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Per Andrew’s awesome Fuel Siphon Jet DIY I was able to replace the o ring and add Teflon tape and a zip tie. Goodbye running out of gas at a quarter tank! Side by side if the new and old along with the initial picture of the assembly removal where you can see the o ring saying Hello!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swp30bnpw.jpeg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...szmcrrdbp.jpeg

Is this a normal occurrence on our 4.8is? I know this would be common the E39 M5s, I knew guys who would carry a spare relay in the car just for that specific issue. You have me wondering if I should do the same now.

I'm betting there is a non essential relay that could be swapped. (Anybody know)
Example: rear wiper, rear window defrost, seat heater. All those use a relay maybe one is the same.

Those relays are usually treasured rated by how many million operations that can perform. Very reliable

Horn relay should be the same. It is on the E46

Bingo perfect. I wouldn't bother having an extra spare when the car has some built in spares.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

At $15, just replace it with a new relay and drive worry free for the next 10 years. :dunno:

Yes it was cheap enough to just order it and not think about it again. Just sucked that it finally crapped out on a work morning but I guess better than middle of nowhere as I had all the tools.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

At first blush it looks like a conventional ~$3 12V relay :dunno: :dunno:

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-...-10215696.html

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/ima...s/10215696.jpg

Mike

It should be the TYCO green relay. It does have a 5th pin for fuel pump prime. :thumbup:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~2oAA...g6v/s-l300.jpg

I may just snag one and keep it in the glovebox just in case, better to be prepared :thumbup:

Yeah, here is a 5 pin version for $4

https://www.alliedelec.com/te-connec...85-1/70198785/

https://assets.alliedelec.com/c_scal...g/70198785.jpg


:dunno: :dunno:

Mike

Does anyone have a recommendation for a side window deflector or rain guard for my 2003 X5?

My sister just gave me her 2003 X5 3.0 and I'm excited to start modding it!

Thanks!

Literally gave you it? Blessed

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Haha, yeah, she literally gave it to me.

She bought a newer 2014 X5M and she knew I needed a car and just asked if I wanted it. She's an amazing sister and she has always been looking out for me. Though, I was still fully surprised and extremely grateful.

Welcome and congratulations!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Welcome and congratulations!

Anyone know where this c-clip goes on the outer axle boot?

I’m just replacing the clamps but didn’t see one currently on the car:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ed296a5de3.png




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The c-clip goes on the axle - it retains the axle in the CV joint.

*edit* You can see the c-clip groove in the splined section in this image from dville...

http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...MDc5LmpwZw.jpg

A little hard to see covered in grease here's a little help for somebody that hasn't done this procedure

This did not work for me unfortunately. Just tried it. Still getting p0058/2C9F for post cat bank 2 o2 sensor heating circuit. I verified 12v on the heater circuit at the o2 harness plug so I'm guessing it's just a bad o2 sensor and not a problem on the body side or the 30A fuse by the IVM (that should trigger both post cat heater errors).

Both post cats are new Bosch units of the splice in variety. Bank 1 has been fine since install, and bank 2 has been giving me issues since install. I've re-spliced bank 2 once already to verify it was not a continuity/resistance issue with the splices. Guess I'm going to just suck it up and order an application specific version this time. :rolleyes:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Can you read live data? % duty of heaters? You are having a different error than I had


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'll try and see what I can come up with. Ordered a new sensor just in case. It's from fcp so if it turns out to be unnecessary the return will be painless. I'll report back after hooking up the scanner.

Well, bought a parts truck and since it was not throwing any O2 codes I went ahead and swapped the O2 from it into my truck and so far so good. No more code. I ohm'd the parts truck O2 and the one I pulled out and was getting wildly different results between the two on the white signal wires. I'm guessing it was just a bad O2 out of the box... it happens.

New key order.

Please imagine a grown man crying....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5bb4aaae89.jpg

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

In the actual world.... $1000?! Should have been $300 if that Max

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

No that's in Saudi Riyal so ÷ by 3.75 = (USD)

Problem is that I have to order it from Germany and estimated time for delivery is 14 days.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Got my transfer case fluid changed out yesterday and reset the error codes via Foxwell. Not sure if this also resets "adaptations," but at least my fluid wear code is cleared. haven't driven it yet so not sure if it will ride any different. Old fluid was definitely past it's "use by" date. Took almost the fill liter of fluid.

Oh, and here's what you do when you realize you don't have a transfer pump after draining the old fluid... Short hose gets hooked to compressor to pressurize bottle. Long hose goes down into the fluid at the bottom of the bottle and the top part goes into the fill port of the transfer case. Kind of fiddly to modulate the air coming from the compressor... but it works. :D

https://i.postimg.cc/MHXnj7P6/Transfer-Case-Fluid.jpg

Oh yeah, also changed my rear wiper to the e70 wiper arm version. Looks much cleaner back there. The plastic looks a little too grey though so I may hit it with some SEM trim black paint.

Listed it for sale.. 02 4.4 with guides and vanos done.

Fixed “check rear/brake lights” with aluminum paper to replace metal contact on light assembly.
BEFORE:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...57616d0acd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...480499c855.jpg

AFTER:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...84d49ed6c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...88832c5afc.jpg

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1704491935.png

It seems the high resistance contact caused some secondary damage. Yellow arrow points to plastic rivet that appears raised: meaning the metal is depressed as it heated and melted the plastic, that's usually how the failure goes. I would pull the metal back up and support it or even with the aluminum contact it will just happen again

Thanks for the feedback andrewwynn

Replaced the front ball joints. did this with no torch or major tools. Just take your time and they eventually work their way out. I will upload pictures but I can't seem to figure out where to go to do this

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Upload your pictures to tinypic.com or another hosting site and then copy/paste the <IMG> URL they give you.. :thumbup:

To be honest it's much easier and faster to use Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6341e22743.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...72a63b4c60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6fb8847126.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6283b30b6f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9f88ffa643.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...548a8b7c04.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...197427ac71.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f2c7117828.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Finished assembling the transmission yesterday. The torque converter also came in yesterday, so I will be installing the transmission today.

What brand did you replace with?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Believe it or not I spend like $20 and knew they are quick and easier to replace if needed. My car has 200k on it and it handles incredible again. I took the risk as I have spent way to much trying to diagnosis my damn wobble. I think my end links are next

Front Lower Ball Joint RF LF Left... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Y8TW7B?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Nice! Hope they last. [emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, quick question for anyone that has experience with aftermarket air bags... My X5 is up for sale, but the rear driver bag deflates after a few hours of sitting. I want to replace the bag but I don't necessarily want to spend $130 on an Arnott bag if I can get an aftermarket one for half the price.

Should I bite the bullet and just wait for black friday sales and order arnott or has anyone had positive experiences with aftermarket brands?

Still trying to narrow down my shimmy...

Ball joints, upper and lower control arms, new rotors, wobbles like crazy.

Just ordered hubcentric rings for my oems . And ordered swaybar end links

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I’ve had arnott on my last two x5s and I think it’s a great bargain for the money.
I’ve heard bad stories about poor customer service from the other brands

I changed out a bad sway bar end link which cured my clunking noise. As far as the shaking I had a really bad shake coming from the front that was caused by a bad wheel balancing from sears. Once corrected the shake is non existent

I just learned tonight that I have e70 wheels on my e53. and I don't have hub centric rings. I wonder if the shop took them off thinking I did not need them since they are stock BMW rims. Ever since I got done getting the same balanced I've had a death wobble for the past 3 or 4 monthsSent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

E70 wheel setuphttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c4ef597990.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

E70 setup looks great on e53.

My poor 4.8 was taken from is too soon.

So, if I can get the dme coded for manual trans I think this engine needs to go into my e38.
Anyone know if that's doable?
In the meantime, I'll be crying in the corner missing my X.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b9123782b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eeca0d8b93.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...252bd6f27d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...006f4fad67.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Finished transmission rebuild/torque converter replacement, changed transfer case oil. It's nice to have it back on the road!