That's nice but the only place I can see it being useful is if it's designed as the trunk cargo cover.

That would look awesome!

That is a very clean looking rear brake. How does your disc look so new and rust free?

My rear wheels are stuck on the disc so tight I can't even remove it by hand.

The wheel is so big and heavy I can't even budge it with a rubber mallet.

Well mines still there too. But it goes away after 5 seconds so you don’t really notice it.

https://e39source.com/archives/797

That's what I want. I read it gets a little raspy with the x pipe tho


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Great find! Went ahead and burned a disk with the "modified" software (thanks for the offer though!). Probably the first time I'm burned a CD in a decade. :D

Anyways, install when flawless. Also ordered the new 2015 map DVDs from eBay. This should hold me over till I can afford an android unit to replace it with.


Will show the M logo and then "accept" screen BUT it will automatically go away after a few seconds - without requiring you to click the button manually like before.

It threw me off the first few times as well since I was expecting not to see that message screen at all.

Where did you buy x-pipe from? How much was install?

Still deciding between h-pipe and x-pipe. Leaning towards H or even just replacing the stock resonator with shorter/louder ones (as recommended here: https://xoutpost.com/articles/x5/exh...-x5-4-6is.html).

I don't think the HP/TQ improvements from full length low restriction exhaust systems are a value. Very costly based on what they deliver. If there is gain from H or X pipes info I have read says it will be greater with the X pipe. Unless it is brand name full length system I would go with what delivers the sound you like. H and X pipes sound quite different. Might want to make the changes one at a time. I would also try dropping the muffler section to see what you get before doing any welding. I think the muffler is more restrictive than the resonator. There is a long thread about member results from X and H pipes that you can pull up in Search. Another options are electric cutouts. I have them installed just after the front cats. Can be stock to open exhaust or anything in between at a touch of a button.

From what I've read it seems that the conscious is that the loss of low end on the 4.8is is less with the H-pipe. I already feel like the V8 takes too much throttle encouragement to get up and going...so the last thing I want to do is make it worse.

Don't think I'm terribly picky as far as tone on either...just want slighter louder (but not obnoxious).

Hoping to not do anything too drastic, permanent or costly. Thinking about swapping resonators first as a conservative first step. If it doesn't yield the results I have in mind then maybe try X-pipe (only because they are readily available prefabbed). Followed by H or muffler delete if still not happy.

I was planning on adding magnaflow 2.25 x-pipe soon

The entire point of the foam under the motor and the main point of the plastic on top of the motor is to keep in motor sounds.

You may get just the right amount of sound boost taking the foam off of the stiffen plate under the motor. (it may introduce some really ugly harmonics so I would definitely keep it handy and take some useful before an after recordings.

On the M54 a different airbox will change the motor sound as well but I would do a before and after 0-60 as well to see if changing the resonance chamber affects performance

I did notice it was louder while driving around for a few weeks without the engine cover.

Interesting idea...I'm familiar with the metal stiffing plate...where if the foam you mention in relation to it exactly? Attached to it?

Sweet man! Yeah same I was like what the hell and then it disappeared. The blue color scheme isn’t bad either. Also I had to burn it at work on my MacBook using parallels and a usb external burner. Lol.

It just sets on top of it.

There you go
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...87c8313dee.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e8017df38c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...abb99b08b4.jpg

i will post pics and videos of the xorst, but i will have to park it off for a week or 2 to repair the hose that the ac belt has eaten through,
Steve

Outstanding! Next on my to-do list after H/X-pipe in the next week or so.


Hmm...haven't noticed it. Will need to drop the stiffener plate soon when I swap the sway bar bushing - so will investigate further then.

By the way I strongly recommend to get a wheel hanger. Replacing those big wheel/tires combo quickly turn into a crossfit session

I use a short stool to sit on and use my toes to lift the wheel assembly up to the hub. I jack the car just far enough to clear the ground. When doing just one wheel I fine tune the height just enough to catch the hub, no lifting at all. Very easy to do with the pre 2001 model jack. I'd like to see the wheel hanger you described though

Yeah I used a short stool but I had both wheels up on craftsman jack stands which make for higher clearance generally. I ordered this
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../002840sch01a/

How have I never seen such a thing?! I usually just use my feet as well to lift and hold. But that thing looks pretty handy.

Ok that's very cool


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New rims.

I got these off a Saudi never mounted but sun faded from sitting for 2000 SAR or 533.41 USD. Not sure how the prices are in CONUS, but over here it's a really good deal.

P.S. it's impossible to lug 4 rims in a company Camry... [emoji38]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8d3a5f79d.jpg

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That’s a deal

Thanks.

I was surprised to find a full set of HAAN's from RTX over here, but hey you can't look a gift camel in the mouth... 'cause it'll spit on you or bite you[emoji38]

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I fit four mounted tires in a vw Passat but with the seat to trunk open and still had to overlap them

Apparently a Camry is only useful in moving bodies if you're Yakuza...

For some reason my wife thought it would be a good idea for her to go with me and do some "lite" shopping. So that may be why I didn't have room...

Ah yes spending money, I would complain...

I may be dumb, but I'm not stupid

[emoji38]:stickpoke:

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A few quick and easy projects this past week:

• Disabled DRLs with BMW Scanner 1.4.0
• Wired AEs to switched power so they work as DRLs instead
• Upgraded MKIV computer software to latest version and ordered latest nav map DVDs from eBay
• Added BavTek automatic lift trunk springs

Man you must elaborate on the AEs being DRLs. I’ve wanted to do this so bad.

Yea I couldn't take the yellow DRLs anymore. Check out this thread: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...eyes-drls.html and my post from today (https://xoutpost.com/1139592-post65.html).

Turned out to be pretty quick and easy. Sounded much more complicated. Let me know if you have questions!

well ,today was an interesting day, I started off stripping the car down to repair a bottom hose,
took fan off, removed all coolant pipes and gave the front of the engine a degrease and power washed it to within an inch of its life, to get rid of all the thick crud on it. (to finally find out where the oil leaks coming from)
then removed the offending pipe, really small hole, even though its a inch slit .
then I find this..
water pump bearing bad …… so needs new water pump (4 year old)
I then after removing this...………
http://www.new-part.com/sites/defaul...11990151_0.jpg
find the left tag that's supposed to hold it in place has broke off,
so ive got a week to order new bits :)
oh the joy

This is great! Question tho. Why did you need to disable the DRLs with the scan tool?

My stock DRLs were nasty yellows in the high beam (see pic below - not sure if that's the same for everyone). So you have to disable those via scan tool or code to make them not come on at all times IF you want the classic angel eye only look.

The wire you run from the ECU to each AE gives the bulbs a power source so that they light all the time instead.

So, just turning the key on makes the angel eyes come on and they stay on as long as the car is on. You can leave your light switch in the Auto setting and have them act as DRLs.

Replaced both rear air springs and fixed passenger front window regulator. Installed a Basser box with a 10in Kicker CompRT powered by Massive amp. Also clayed, polished and put a fresh coat of wax on.

Here is my post for modifying the temp gauge on my high cluster
https://xoutpost.com/1121333-post23.html

Another way to wire AEs is to connect to ignition wire and to door light. When ignition is on AEs are on. When doors are unlocked AEs come on. When door or rear hatch is opened AEs come on.

Thanks for this share and your help over PM. Same to @Crowz for his webpage.

I did this today and it seemed to worked flawlessly. Will test on a longer drive later to see the new gauge readings once it's hot.

My hex variables were not exactly the same as yours (3.0 vs 4.8 I assume) but very close. Once I knew where to look it was an easy change of a few digits and write the edits. Very cool!!!

While rebuilding my entire Android Eonon GA6166 system due to a faulty Witson SoM Board I installed the latest version of the BMW IBUS app (2.0.3).

https://www.ibus-app.de/index_en.html

Lots of new features (app opening sequence, speed sensitive volume, etc.) and this app really makes leaving the OBC functions behind while doing a head unit upgrade, a non-event.

:thumbup:

Mike

Holy. That makes me want an eanon unit so bad now.

No kidding... on my list after exhaust and tune. :D

A 4GB RAM unit will run nicely with the stock Android OS. The original 1GB RAM in my early adopter GA6166, was a dog. The 4GB Witson upgrade SoM board has been a Godsend to salvaging my install labor on that dreaded 3 meter Fakra cable from the hatch area.

With 4GB RAM, all apps respond snappy and diagnostics shows I'm using 31% of available RAM.

A 2GB unit could do OK, but like fuel, ammo or HP, too much is just enough. :bustingup

Here is a demo clip of my install:

https://youtu.be/RAv0qZusgBQ



Mike

Sorry for this question but my 4.8is is still in transit so haven't had time to fiddle with it (also coming from a E70 platform)

So the angel eyes on the E53 are not DRL? And can't just be coded to act like it via Carly or some app via the OBD2?

Also the reflector bowl in the headlights are high beams?

I thought the facelifts were bi-xenon adaptive lights?

So how do the angel eyes turn on normally?

Angel eyes are not DRL because they’re wired to the side marker illumination inside the actual headlamp. So no software will turn on just the angel eyes.

Yes the high beams use traditional halogen bulbs.

Unsure about facelift

Normally they turn on with the “side lamps” which is side markers and Turn signals front and rear.

I'm not headlight expert, but with mine:


No not on our facelifted (2004-2006) e53s.


You can disable the factory DRL bulbs (which are yellowish Halogen bulb closest to grill).


That is my understanding all well - V8 facelifted X5s have adaptive bi-xenon headlights.


If I recall correctly, previously my AEs came on when the light selector was in position 3 (the parking lights/side marker, as I believe its called) and in position 4 (lights on) at low beam or high beam. Basically they were nothing but a faint supplement to the regular lights though (one halogen bulb actually powers both rings).

It seems that the AEs on these are not really like those on the new BMWs - not bright and not really intended to be run as DRLs alone. Just fluff...for show I guess?

Even with my LED AE bulb upgrade they are still dim. Not sure they would be bright enough to be legal if you lived somewhere that required DRLs (I don't so not sure the rules on that stuff).

In photos it seems the meager output of low voltage on the high beam for DRL is not any more visible than the angel eye ring, more to the point, I'm pretty sure having parking lights on qualifies.

Installed Aux cooling fan on bottom of Eonon GA6166 to give an extra measure of cooling protection.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tG...w=w813-h610-no

The case was getting quite warm to the touch during normal operations and I didn't feel that the heat sink was doing a good enough job.

:dunno: :dunno:

Mike

Good point. You're probably right. I don't live somewhere that requires them - so not sure if there is a brightness requirement or anything else. Perhaps having ANY light qualifies and makes you legal.

If you hardwire AE and running them on the "Auto" setting (like myself) = there are no parking/corner lights on.

My point is - they're not bright so don't expect much. Certainly no comparison to newer BMWs I pass running nice, bright LED halos as their DRLs.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I bought some 3rd party lights to add bright Halo to my 2001. I haven't had time to install them yet but I chose them rather than actual BMW solution because of the nice bright factor (also far less expensive).

I need to fix one of my "cataract" lenses and looked for a used replacement and it was nearly $100. I bought a set of replacements for about $220 that includes the halo; the halo is wired to the parking lights giving me the choice to have them on.

Was going to mention that your 2006 V8 uses the halogens for DRLs but my 2005 I6 doesn't. My light switch has AUTO, OFF, PARKING LAMPS, and LOW BEAMS. I always have it in AUTO but when I want to turn on the halos I have to put it in PARKING LAMPS to keep the headlights off but turns on all the side markers as well.

When I ever get to doing the DRL halos I wont need to scan and tweak.

Wonder if the DRL halogens was a V8 thing or a 2006 thing.

Yea I've noticed that mine seems to be different then most. I see people saying that the DRL is the same bulb as the high beam. But that doesn't seem to be the case for me.

My DRLs were halagen for sure and the inside bulbs closest to the grill. The outside bulb for me is low beam AND just gets brighter for high beam. The meaning of "bi"-xenon, perhaps?

From reading here I was under the impression that my setup was like my Lexus...one xenon for low beam and a separate halogen for high beam. This through me off for a bit. So since coding off my stock DRLs it doesn't appear that my larger, inside bulb is being used for anything!

Bi-Xenon means that that the single projector can do both low and high beam. There is a plate inside the projector that flaps down creating "hi" beam pattern. That's why I don't understand what the reflector bowl does on the E53.

On the E70, it's bi-xenon and the inner light is actually to light up the corona rings and the bulbs purposes is just for that only.

I have no DRL laws in NY either, just gets you a discount on your insurance if you do.

Lots of cars pre-led scene (basically before everyone started copying AUDI R8 LED lights) DRL was always used by a low voltage high beam or dual filament on the low beam lights.

Maybe the bowl is more for aesthetics?

DRL's were halogen across all years of E53 and E39.

Not every V8 has adaptive lights, but most 4.8's do. If you have HID in the US, you do have auto-leveling. It's a DOT requirement. Bi-Xenon was standard on all HID equipped E53's after the face lift.

The 'extra' halogen bulb in high beams is for flash to pass. Steady high beams use the mirror on the HID side.

I used IBus to code my DRL's off, added AE's and fogs as DRL.

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/tes...small-copy.jpg

I replaced my High Beam halogen bulbs with high performance LED units (with integral cooling fans) and couldn't be happier with them as my DRL light.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1P...A=w813-h610-no

With LED high beams

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mZ...Q=w813-h610-no

I also added similar high performance LEDs to the fog light positions and now via the Android BMW IBUS app I can run the fog lights with my high beams as my DRL.

https://www.ibus-app.de/index_en.html

This is a phenomenally capable app for those that have upgraded to a more modern Android infotainment system and brings back quite possibly all the functionality (and adds new functionality) of the OBC menu.

I've used those in a different car... one burned out in a couple months. seems the cooling on most led units are inadequate.. little hesitant to use them again

I must have purchased a good manufacturer's product.

My high beam bulbs have been functioning well since November 2016 and the fog/driving bulbs since December 2016

:dunno: :dunno: :dunno:

Mike

would you know the manufacturer?

Yes, they are known as TC-X. I have used them for a bunch of LED lighting needs and I have never experienced a problem since doing business with them going back to 2016

https://tc-x.aliexpress.com/store/bi...99_224021.html

Mike

thanks. side note I actually wanna go the other way with angel eyes.. I want to make them more yellow not less. I see white halos everywhere but I want to have them match the side markers.. what color even is that.. just LED orange?

Personal preference :dunno:

I like the clear with an LED bulb in the side marker. VERY visible at night. Also courtesy of TC-X

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nw...A=w676-h902-no

Mike

I'm on the same boat, I prefer the look of the halogen angel eyes over the LED white.

But if you want LED for better performance but keep the halogen color you have to find 4000-4300k temp "natural" white LED bulbs which I have yet to see for this particular AE application.

Most aftermarket LEDs are 6000-8000k range.


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Kinda like this on the right. Excuse my terrible photoshop. :)

I'm a fan of the OEM halogens too... :thumbup:

http://i64.tinypic.com/10zd0zs.jpg

please tell me those are LEDs.... where please.

I have never seen led rings not white. The only way you will achieve that look is with "gels" as in what stage performers use to tint a spotlight.

If you can get inside you could use Amber tape like kapton tape or possibly Amber window tint over the whole lens. Since white is not a good color for actually seeing it will improve the visibility at night if the color temp of the main headlights are also lowered to 4000 ish.

Nope - not LEDS - 10w halogen - 100% OEM. :thumbup:

Well, maybe not 100% - the OEM bulbs blew a long time ago - replaced with these.

https://www.ozautoelectrics.com/medi...lobe-17833.jpg

https://www.narva.com.au/products/17833

I have modified the OEM fitting to allow replacement of the halogen lamp, rather than having to replace the whole assembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDApyupw_1Y&t=72s

LED angel eyes look good on the newer models like 2017+ IMO.

The halogen celis style angel eyes create a nice contrast that's why I think I prefer it on older models.

Ok finally did it. I didn’t want to replace the torch but at the same time my phones light is 100x brighter. So instead I installed a usb/aux jack combo where the torch was. And then using the factory aux cable and a firefly BT adapter, we got steaming to the factory stereo with a switched power supply. So it will turn off with the ignition. Woot. Ok next project.

Trying to make sure I follow all of this...

Did you mean "The 'extra' halogen bulb in DRL [aka the larger lenses closet to grill] is for flash to pass..."

Yes. The halogen bulb fires more quickly than HID which needs a warm up when cold. If you pull the stalk forward to flash high beams, the halogen bulb fires, not the HID bulb.

Unless the car is off then hid


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Interesting. I’m starting to like my setup a bit more. Simpler. One bulb for low. One for high. No DRLs

I am a little late to the party but also had to replace a rear brake line recently; about 80K miles on an '05 4.8is.

Steve


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Welcome to the family of brake line repairers!

The bulbs are the same whether DRL's are coded on or off. DRL's are simply dimmed halogen. They can be coded on/off in every E53.

I think you mean activating pathway lighting. Pull the stalk forward after it's off and the HID will fire for a set time (I forget how long) That is an option that can be coded on/off as well.

Interestingly, I noticed that my pathway lighting doesn't work any more after screwing around with my IBus app and DRLs. I may have inadvertently disabled it. I need to snoop around the LCM options. :rolleyes:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Yes I call it walk me to the door lighting. You can program which lights come on such as tail. You can also set how long


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This is why I chose an LED replacement for my halogen high beam bulbs. The LED fires nearly instantly as opposed to the HID.

I also have stopped using the auto headlight setting because coming in and out of the garage during daylight hours causes additional start up cycles on the HID ballasts and bulbs. IMHO, not a good recipe for HID longevity :dunno: :dunno:

Mike

Can parking sensors be disabled depending on direction? With a scanner of course. In my garage I have no reason to know if something is in front of me when I back up. A single beep is all that’s necessary

That seems duh logical but I'm betting the answer is no. You would probably have to disable the sensor until you backed out a few feet every time.

I think the reasoning is a kid could walk between you and the car in front of you while backing up and it's designed to alert you that something is worth looking at on the other side.

Ya I understand why. My idea is if the car turns on and the sensor sees something static, aka a wall there’s no need to beep unless that distance changes. They’re so smart das Germans but sometimes it’s just 🙄

Like you, I don't leave the headlight switch on auto but I when I do want the headlights on , I switch it to auto rather than to the manual on position. It seems that the headlight auto-leveling system doesn't function when the headlights are switched on manually - only when they are on auto mode. :dunno:

They will auto level when on. The auto on the schedule on the switch only refers to the power.


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Yeah, I thought that too but I read somewhere that that wasn't so... I'll see if I can find it.

Mine only have level, not direction btw...

Found it in the user manual - this kinda infers the adaptive lighting only works in the auto position... :dunno:

http://i63.tinypic.com/2zfpp29.jpg

Yes...that is correct. The HID/xenon headlights will "auto-level" in the adaptive or manual "ON" position. But if you have adaptive headlights...you have to have the switch in the "AUTO" position if you want the headlights to swivel/turn as you drive into curves and corners. :)

Thanks for the clarification, Qsilver7... :thumbup:

Nice to know I've not (yet) gone totally crazy... :D

Wow. I did not know that.


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Wonder how one could tell if they had adaptive 🤔🤔

Decided to drive it in steptronic mode today. Much smoother shifts and better fuel economy. Who knew???


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It actually says it on the headlight.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...25bb63f490.jpg


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Run your VIN (the last 7 digits) through one of the multiple VIN decoder sites...you should see option code S524A listed. The adaptive headlight option came with the bi-xenon headlight set-up on the facelift e53 X5s in the US market. In some markets you could also have regular xenon/HID or halogen headlights that did not come with the "adaptive" feature.

Here's a VIN decoding site if you don't know one off hand: https://www.mdecoder.com/

Well hello there. Never noticed.

Cant you tell if you just turn the wheel? The lights move with the steering motion

I’m assuming it’s more obvious during nighttime driving at higher speeds. Using the speed sensor and steering wheel position sensor. Which I don’t do much of. Mostly under 40 starts and stops.

In the same vein as where Cleanfast was going...you can get an idea of the headlight moving if you turn on the headlights at dusk or night...and turn the wheel to the right (clockwise) while facing a wall or your garage door etc.

You want to turn the steering wheel to the right when standing still because the system is designed not to blind oncoming traffic. So when driving at slower speeds (or stopped)...turning the steering wheel to the left will use result in blinding oncoming traffic or vehicles stopped at an intersection to your left...so the left headlight doesn't turn until higher speeds when you're more likely not to be in oncoming traffic that would be blinded by the left headlight turning into its path.

Sold my e70 for it!


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This past weekend I had the dreaded left rear window regulator blowout :(

Pulled the door card and extracted the regulator to find the cable had completely released itself from the spool.

I managed to reassemble the spool with the somewhat kinked cable just as a temporary measure to hold the window up until my parts arrive.

Going to go into Beast Mode on all these regulators and the rear door carriers since the door cards will be off. I like to knock out many of these high use old parts in one whack to prevent an inconvenient failure/downtime in the future or while in the Wisconsin frozen tundra at some ugly -°F :thumbup:

Will change the little plastic window holder clips as well:

Front 51338254781

Rear: 51357011680

With the front door carriers and the speaker upgrades done, hopefully this will be the last time I have to open up the door cards in my ownership of this E53.

Mike

I'm going to do mine after I overhaul my cooling system. Carriers and regulators all around. Then we'll tint her as dark as I legally can :thumbup:

Cut the "nubs" off the door carriers when you have them out. Most likely to breaks when the little blocking bar sticks in the cold and holds back the handle while trying to open. You think it's just frozen in Frost so you tank hard and break the hinge.


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Great idea! :thumbup:

Could you annotate a photo to point an arrow or circle the "nubs" that you are referring to?

Here is a representative image to work with:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/E9IAA...IB/s-l1600.jpg

Thanks.

Mike

X5 to the arctic circle
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...4&share_type=t

Got it!

Thanks Andrew :thumbup: :thumbup:

I will mod my carriers per your images below before install.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9ad68a0b3e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...287f40505b.jpg

Mike

Any advice on opening a rear door with broken carrier where the child lock is engaged?

Carrier broke and could still open door from inside until someone (name withheld) flipped the child lock on when door open. Do I have to remove door card with door closed? :bawling::banghead:

Thanks.

Depending what broke it can be done!
I accidentally locked my keys in my car with my door handle carrier broken.

I was in Chicago and a little concerned somebody would smash my window to "get a free car" before roadside could come get me in.

I already had my replacement carrier so I used it to study how it works.

I was able to get in two ways:

1) with a flat blade skinny screwdriver: push in and poke on the Bowden cable until it pulled the lever on the actuator.

2) make a little hook with some thin metal rod: reach in and hook on the cable and pull.

Beginner's luck I got it the first try in less than 5 seconds. It took a lot more time in future attempts.


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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Alternatively: practice on the other door: you might be able to flip the switch with a slim jim.

Back to from the outside method: you have to poke through the rubber seal where the handle pokes through. Practice on the new carrier. Totally doable.

So the cable opens the door or deactivates child lock? I'm guessing opens the door.

Thanks I'll give it a try. Likely I'll be back with questions.

Just opens the door but then you have access to the child switch.

That reminds me of a prank I pulled in high school.

Me, my friend and his sister were all in the back seat of one of the first cars ever sold with child safety locks. I hated to notice the switch as exiting to the right and flipped it as I motioned with my eyes to my friend who was on the left side (sister in the middle). We both left the car and shut the doors leaving a very confused sister in the back seat unable to leave with both doors unlocked.


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Partial list from my other post.

Filter box now modified with pantyhose framed filter after filter (wife was PO'd)

PVC valve cleaned.

Post sandstorm oil change (3rd in 8,000 km)

All new o2 sensors on order.

Headlight polishing started to undo sandstorm damage. (should be done before hell freezes over)

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I did the passengers side upper timing cover gasket , (drivers side for you Americans) :)
wasn't too much of a pita, couldn't finish it off as I couldn't find the rtv sealant
the valve gaskets at the top were like hard plastic, really brittle , bottom was a bit hard but not as bad,
brand new water pumo had a squeak on the shaft, but when it was wet it went ,
only thing I have found it a slight lip of about 1mm between the cover and the block (cover being a tad higher) , and I cant get rid of it , new gasket should compensate .

plus here's the pulley with the nick in it

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Put the valve cover on with no gasket and put in the front two bolts with two washers each (to compensate for no gasket). Tighten the two front valve cover bolts while the timing chain cover bolts are a little loose to push the cover down right into the bottom seal then tighten the chain cover bolts before removing the valve cover. Works every time for me

Replaced all four O2 sensors. Not as bad a job as I expected after reading everyone's experiences here. Hit them with PB Blaster the night before. They all loosened easily. Biggest PITA was feeding the wires for the lowers. Ended up having to remove the cabin air intake, but other than that, a piece of cake. Still had time left in the day to wash and wax her.

Dyed my faded lower and door trim back to gloss black. Let’s see how long it lasts. If it’s once a year I’m happy.

Drivers window regulator and door handle carrier while I was in there. Window still going up slowly so trying to figure that out.

What did you use?


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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Needs lubrication. See:

Slow window, fixed with dry lubrication
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...7&share_type=t

25% faster going down 60% faster going up after just dry lubrication spray

Some Forever Black bumper and trim reconditioner. Amazon for like $18? Or so. Two coats. Brush strokes are visible with the foam applicator. Not bad though. I’ll use something else next time. Maybe an old shirt. Taped off painted areas and just took some time. 2-3 hours total

Cool. Yeah, I've got some.
I found something that lasted longer, but I can't remember what it is. Would have to go heck in the garage.


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i'll try that Andrew, cheers for the tip

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I just installed a top timing chain cover yesterday: I was able to simply push it down onto the lower seal by using the open jaw of a longnose pliers* levered from the T-55 bolt in each of the camshafts. I tightened all the bolts just until the back seal was touching then I levered the intake side down and tightened the middle bolt "snug" but not torqued. I did the exhaust side similarly then i torqued down all the bolts evenly by doing them each just a little at a time.

* Rough side of jaw inside the T-55 and smooth outer side down against the seal surface. You could use a piece of plastic or wood shim to protect the valve cover seal surface.

PS. Don't forget to put RTV in the bottom corners of the upper timing covers.

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ill take it back off, :)
forgot to put some of that on. I don't think ive tightened them up fully anywhoo,
?
:)

Especially noticable when driving about 35-45 mph and lots of hills. Up hill in 5th is not helping anything


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Yeah..! or Yeah..?

I hit the 200,000 kilometer mark. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e9f5d44004.jpg

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I was excited then I noticed that's 124k Miles. That's low that's what mine has. nice

Welcome to the medium mileage club... I'm at 260 000km right now but my timing chain decided it was time take a break...

I'm sure that I won't have any trouble until Thanksgiving as that's the date for our newest family addition to arrive....

23 y/o son
18 y/o son
13 y/o X5
and... Surprise! It's another son. (Thanksgiving day)

I should have spent more time under the BMW instead... [emoji38]

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Ok, that made me laugh.

Got a lot done this weekend:

- replaced expansion tank (leaking at join between upper and lower halves)
- replaced lower hose from expansion tank to water pump (existing hose wouldn't seal to hose barb on new tank)
- replaced front windshield (huge crack was driving me nuts)
- replaced front and rear washer pumps
- fixed right outside tail light (lower socket wasn't getting a good connection, triggering a brake light fault message)

No more drips or warning lights!

xDrive service
 

I serviced my xDrive transfer case today - ATC500. Fun little task.

Used OEM "unicorn juice" - DTF-1. The local dealer gave me a good price, so my kids will be able to eat this week after all...

Also bought a fluid pump - which made this task SO much easier.

After changing the fluid I fired up the laptop with DIS and ran the transfer case oil change task, which resets the oil wear adaptation values. Whir, click, buzz.... Done.

Boy, is this thing SMOOTH now. :thumbup:

It's always had a subtle "shudder" in the driveline when under high torque at low speeds. Felt like a grabbing clutch... Stop on a hill, them move off briskly and you could feel a slight driveline shudder. Turn sharply from an intersection when you've had to stop and it felt slightly rough and "graunchy"... but only very slightly.

Not anymore! Butter smooth... just wow... :D

This weeks fun:

• Installed Dinan Stage 1 engine tune with their DIY kit
• Replaced paper filter with Pipercross oil-less foam panel filter
• Updated to latest nav DVDs
• Wash and wax

My tank started leaking in the same spot as yours about a month ago. Replaced it with a generic one from NAPA (was weekend and didn't have a choice - was on a road trip and only place that had one in stock).

Anyways, the hose you're talking about wouldn't snap onto the new tank tight - it leaked like crazy. Figured that was my luck for buying a non-BMW tank. Put some RTV on the nipple to get by - it actually held until this week when it started dripping from the connection.

I just bought a BMW one this week and was going to install this weekend (another $120!!). But now you've got me thinking if I could just replace the hose instead for a solid fit - would be a lot cheaper. :dunno:

Drove nearly to fuel starvation. Left work with 9 mi range on a 16 mi commute. By the time I remember to fill up range was showing - - - . I filled up 24.902 gal (no top off). Anyone ever filled up past 25 gal?

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

The fuel system is designed to have about 4L of fuel left when the DTE reads zero. You could have probably driven about 15 miles past zero. Though the tank size is officially less than 25gal, I'm not sure if car companies include the filler neck in the official capacity

Folding mirrors - again
 

:rolleyes:

They died again today - folding in then right back out again. Popped off both covers and found micro-switch on passengers side had popped out of holder - just like the last time they failed (a couple of years ago).

I used holt-melt glue on both switches to keep them in place. You need to place the glue carefully and cut it back with a sharp knife (X-Acto #11) to ensure the glue doesn't interfere with the switch fitment.

http://i63.tinypic.com/15wmgkn.jpg

Added some lube to the contact point too. All working again. :thumbup:

today, was not a very good day,
went over , drained the water out of cooling system ( making sure the system didn't leak test)., removed some pipes, started putting rocker on, rtv in appropriate places, , moved a little pipe out of the way, but don't know where is goes , got rtv all over the place , then put new gasket on rocker to only realised the gasket was for the right hand side of the engine ,
tried to clean up the crap of the 3 weeks old original gasket , and all achieved was getting rtv everywhere, still don't know where this little thin pipe goes,
the gasket kept falling or being caught on something and coming off,
3 hours later I had lost the will to live, and was contemplating either scrapping it or setting fire to it.
so now I've got to buy another left side rocker gasket
I'm annoyed, VERY annoyed
and my arm and left hand is covered in rtv

and I know where that pipe goes, onto air duck near AFM

I added a 3 way toggle switch to nitrous setup. Connects to bottle opener switch in console. Allows me to open one or both bottles. Purpose is to assure bottle pressure is always in the proper pressure range.

There have been times when I have gently tied a fine strand of wire to keep a gasket in place until I could get part situated and get bolts in place. One twist and lots of extra wire to make it easy to remove. With fine wire you can get the bolt in place before removing the wire.

hmmm. wrap a bit of wire round the rocker and gasket every so often to hold the gasket in place. not a bad idea.
I think its better than setting fire to it .
you know tbh I think the hardest bit is getting the two lobes thingies in the rear positioned right

just thought of something whilst I was in the shower, how does that work when you put cover on, over the cams.
im going to the pube now for beer, I shall be thinking about this while im drinking loads of beers with the wife.
I don't think shes going to appreciate me figuring this one out :)

Replaced MAF (Bosch)

New steering column knuckle installed.

Pulled, cleaned and replaced transfer case electrical connectors.

New bulbs for adaptive headlights bought.

Drilled/slotted disks and ceramic pads inbound (20-30 days)

New o2 sensors ordered

Now only code (according to Torque Pro) is o2 heater bank 2 cylinder 1, yet my fuel economy has dropped so much that even Saudis know my name...

Foxwell NT-510 should be in my hands before end of next week.

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MAF / O2 can cause bad mpg. Biggest drop for me was bad plugs. Have you ever changed your plugs?


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I just installed valve covers on an M62. I'm confused as the gasket was about the least difficult part. The design of the gasket on the model I worked on, the gasket press-fit into the valve cover itself and held pretty tight. Also rubber gasket didn't need rtv other than the corners but not on the bottom sealing surface just between the gasket and the cover. Does your gasket not fit into a groove on your cover?

yeah it fits, but it keeps getting caught on wither the cams or the rear end when I'm trying to get it in, thing is I've done this numerous times before but other day it wasn't my day
I've bought new gaskets for both sides, I might if I can be bothered , remove the other side and get the rockers painted then put them back on , (partly to do the front timing cover , seeing as I got the gasket to do that too) depends on tonight really
my other car, is due a MOT tonight , and the damn thing has just thrown an engine management light, so I've got to fit that first :(
I tell ye its just not Steves week this week

Back in to the dealer for another FSR. The last one didn't even go a year, so the two year warranty period pays off!


2002 X5 3.0 348,150 miles
2014 428i 40,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration - Long block assembly finished

Yes, new plugs, coils, MAF.

Fuel dropped after fixing MAF, o2 sensor code cleared after MAF but will replace all o2 sensors after they come in the mail.

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Have you manually measured your economy? Did you reset the fuel gauge?


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Dang - it's the blower motor this time. You'd think if it would last for 348,000 miles it would make it to 400,000 :rolleyes:

that's a long time. the squirrel cage only lasted 180k in my old 540

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I'm guessing not under warranty any more at 1/3 of a million miles?

Not like you get much opportunity to not use blower in DFW! Last time I was there I was very happy to have a convertible where I could open the top for ten seconds to dump the 160°air when I got in the car (it was 103°).

Good wishes on a speedy recovery your X5 is legendary in these parts

:popcorn:hhaahahaa

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I was saying tongue in check because he had mentioned the porcupine was still covered.


80% chance it's just the brushes, 15% it's the commutator. Does anybody have a refurbish kit like the $20 kit for the valeo alternator?

Fixing it is not the issue - getting at it is.. :confused:

Oh yes that is the annoyance for sure


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An annoyance... ? :rofl:

Takes a bit to get you annoyed, does it Andrew? ;)

http://www.ronstultz.com/knowledge/i...tely%20Out.jpg

BMW X5 - Dash Removal

yeah that job cost my insurance company quite the penny when mine went out.. (extended warranty) i wanna say it was 2000+ which was about 10 hours labor. and 300 for the blower

:bustingup

I've got a little more patience than most. Yeah it's a "full time job" to replace that blower but I've seen detailed step by step it's not outside the DIY just quite annoying.

and I was getting stressed over a rocker gasket :)

Dealer quoted $1650. Since I just had to do the upstairs A/C :( for the CEO's castle, my personal transportation can wait a bit. In the meantime, I'm going to throw in another FSU just in case, because the initial symptom was the blower not changing speed at all. The next day it stopped blowing after about 20 minutes, the next day it took fifteen minutes for it to start, and then the fourth day and since it hasn't started at all. So I'm not 100% convinced it's the motor.


And that dash removal looks tedious, a full day's work without prior experience I'm sure. Believe it or not, I'm most concerned about the cloth covering coming off the A pillar trim more than anything and not being able to get it back on smoothly. It's already come loose at the base from the sun.


I do love seeing the structural reinforcements behind the dash and console though. :thumbup:


2002 X5 3.0 348,200 miles
2014 428i 40,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration - Long block delayed for defective roller lifters - aargh.

I did this on the 4.8is recently.. Just repeatedly kept telling myself the person who designed this is insane!

I took out the center console too... Only lost 1 screw :)
I swear just like E39 Thrust arms... NEVER AGAIN.

This is so much easier to get to in the E39, maybe easier in the E53 to get the blower motor cover off given the extra space.

Hi everyone,
I had oil changed on my 2006 X5 E53 and after the oil change, I noticed a leak. I went back to the mechanic but he tried to convince me that it's the power steering leaking. I came home and put clear plastic under the truck and next morning I saw a puddle of yellow water like liquid, went back to the mechanic with a sample of the liquid and then he said it's the coolant leaking and it would require the hose and sensor replacement.

My question is, why and how can a simple oil change result in coolant leaking? Why do I need to change the sensors? Is there an easy fix for it. Would it really be the coolant? it's my first BMW and I'm pretty anxious about this unforseen problem.

I'd appreciate your help and advice.
Fam

The likely cause and effect would be that the leak was already there and was puddled on top of the under engine stiffening plate. It it's the lower radiator hose it has a temp sensor built into it and not meant to be swapped though it's a likely leak source : the o-ring can be replaced if that is the leak.

I installed the bimmerfix stent to solve a severe coolant leak.
Then I installed a new upper rad hose 2 days ago.
Probably installing a new water pump next week.
And a new tensioner pulley.
Then I need to do a complete coolant flush and replacement.
...and an oil change.
Also going to replace the front passenger power window mechanism.
And I'm trying to figure out how to fix my main instrument cluster.
Also trying to get my remote keys to work again.
And I need to repair my exterior tailgate release button
...transmission feels a little rougher than normal too
...power steering pump has a lot of oil around it and its hoses

Jeebus... why am I keeping this truck again? ;-P

I hope your bimmerfix stent solution works better than mine did. Ended up redoing with the AGA pipe after a few months.:(

As far as key reprogramming goes, I've only had success while doing it intoxicated. :rofl: (Crystalworks knows what I'm talking about)

I also just fixed my passenger front window regulator and now my driver's front is starting to make a grinding noise. :swear: It never ends!

Suggest you start a new thread. IMO the intention of this thread is to let other forum members know what repairs, maintenance, mods we have done/completed on our vehicles.

Amen brochacho. Amen. Still trying to get that rear o2 to stop throwing CEL. :rofl: Maybe I should drink first and then work on it...

@cw: I have been dealing with post cat O2 errors all year I think I'll start a new thread and maybe we can all get them fixed finally.


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Installed the suspension refresher from ECS tuning and tomorrow heading to the stealer to do the four wheel alignment. Hopefully, they give a good loaner vehicle:dunno:

I’m afraid to take mine. What’s the stealer gonna charge you

We have a very good suspension place in town charges $100 to align my x5


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need to take mine in. drives straight if the steering wheel is turned ever so slightly to the right. Unless one of you gents knows how to fix that.

If the tires aren't getting chewed up that sounds like a cosmetic issue. My car similarly has the wheel ever so slightly turned when driving straight. I will have the alignment guys square that up after I put in my new ball joints


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Thing is they are brand new tires. I just replaced the ball joints and bushings. I feel like the last owner may have aligned it with the shit bushings or something.

Signed up for 3 year alignment plan for $180 at National Tires Batteries (NTB). I do the alignment monthly, and because they are so eager to extract more money they tell me all the bad things they notice while they are working on it. Fix those myself.

That's pretty clever!


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After ball joint replace you need an alignment.

No need to ask me why I know:


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ca156e47b4.jpg


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I’m looking to replace ball joints front tension strut arms soon. Although I already replaced font upper and lower arms the X still shakes a little when braking or with feet off gas pedal. I’m thinking it may have to do with BJs. Are you planning to use BJ removal tool or hammer it away?

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I bought control arms with ball joint attached. Removal process requires a hammer not much more. Very good YouTube video available

The shake you describe is almost certainly ball joint and exactly why I ordered mine. Soft braking from 50-45 mph gives you shimmy you feel at the steering wheel. 99% Chance ball joint.

Got my NT-510 in the mail last night, I started checking all my codes and expect to have almost everything done and cleared by 2020[emoji38]

Found new transfer case with solenoids for 2100 SAR (1 USD = 3.75 SAR) as for some reason they won't sell the solenoids separately "sigh"

Good news is that a new Bosch battery is 800 SAR.

Still trying to make the boss lady believe I'm getting a great deal on every single thing that I buy....

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Tons of codes are tripped from a low voltage situation. Record the codes and do a quick reset and see which return.

As you will see it takes a tremendous time for the 510 to auto scan so learn how to navigate abs dive into the modules that you need to access.

[emoji38] I noticed that.

This is the one that has me torqued....

Fluid and filter changed but hadn't been able to do interval reset till now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...239da8978f.jpg

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Just had the subframe out of my convertible e30 and did a complete suspension refresh up front and an oil pan gasket. Easy jobs compared to working on E53's.

I've been coming up dry for an alignment... might have to take it to the dealer as well. :rolleyes: I've tried Pep Boys, NTB, and Firestone. The e30 only has front toe adjustment... ONLY. But everyone is afraid to touch it for reasonable money. Here's how the conversation at NTB went;


Me, "Can you guys do a front end alignment on that old BMW?" Manager, "Yeah, but we can't do that until my BMW/Mercedes guy comes in tomorrow." Me, "Oh yeah, it's only got front toe adjustment at the tie rods... nothing else to adjust." Manager, "Oh no, BMW's are very complex and need to wait until my guy comes in tomorrow." Me, "Oh, okay, how much does that run?" Manager, "$129." Me, "Oh, the sign says $89 for a full alignment." Manager, "Yeah, but you have a BMW. All Mercedes/BMW are $129." Me, "Okay, thanks for the info." :rolleyes::stickpoke:yikes:

Das German tax

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

@eodguy: you may just have a loose connection to your transfer case but in your sand environment I'm not too surprised you have worn out transfer case oil.

In case you missed it those errors are not about the crankcase oil.

Yeah, but I also changed filter and fluid in transmission along with transfer case when I came back from Bahrain. So far the only thing not changed fluid wise is gear oil in the differentials.

But I hope you're right about connection, because the way the wife looked at me when I came in.... I'm already sweating like a whore in church.

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Spot on. Thanks

What did you do to / for your E53 today?

Finally figured out how to turn down the auto volume response of the head unit. So annoying to me for the volume to change automatically.

Over the labor day week I installed a rear camera that fit into the license plate light socket, atsc tv tuner, and an updated oem timing chain tensioner.

The space for the tensioner was so snug, I bruised my thumb and the joint swelled up for the week!

Still it's amazing how much quieter the engine sounds for the first couple of days. Now it's almost back to normal sounding. Which isn't bad, just wasn't as whisper quiet as before.

Installed bbk and European headlights

Where did you buy the Euro lights from? Are they dynamic?

I’m not sure. They are xenon. I don’t see the auto leveling kicking in but I need to disconnect and reconnect battery and see if that will reset my lcm. I’m having an issue where my drivers side headlight won’t turn sporadically. It will turn on every time with welcome home lights. Otherwise hit or miss. I bought them off eBay from a seller in Australia. Scored a great deal on them used. Will need a nice polishing but great shape overall.

Does it say DYNAMIC on the projector shrouds?

Trick for the chain tensioner: use a through-hole socket with extension rather than a swivel. I suspect a normal short socket with 3-4 " extension would also work. On the V8, the airbox is in the way you have to remove it.

If the chain was loose enough to be noisy I would definitely check the oil pan for chain guide parts. You can take a good look through the hole where the oil temp/level sensor goes without having to remove the oil pan.

RIght Hand Drive headlights are different to LHD, (and have different part numbers);
Each have projectors that are made to not dazzle oncoming traffic by way of the cutoff - in a LHD they will direct light slightly down on the left side and up on the right side.

In principal the thought is correct but literally it's quite incorrect.

The cutoff for LHD vehicles is such that light goes up from centerline ONLY right of center, but when properly dialed in the light on the left side will be bright straight out from centerline.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc92c07ce8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...880a46b60d.jpg

Here is a visual of how that works. Notice the beam on the driver side (LHD) stays nearly horizontal. The passenger side (right in this case) rises quite a bit to illuminate the world especially road signs.

This is the pattern of the headlights. I took some out of an X5 one time and retro fitted them into a different car. The blocker? behind the magnifier is cut out to project a pattern. I assume it’s the opposite for RHD Xs. It’s only logical

Yes, that was what I was trying to say.
It’s difficult to describe so I added a photo for clarity.

I had rhd lights before from other cars and it’s very annoying for the on coming traffic. I was flashed every single time lol




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I’m not sure. I don’t think so. Here is a pic. I have the car in the garage at my parents till the weekend so can’t see.