Changed all fluids.
 

2011 X5D 59,700 miles.
Front diff easy. Old fluid a little amber brown like maple syrup. The plug had a thin layer of gray paste coating, not too bad.


Rear diff, Fluid looked almost as good as new, clear light yellow color.


T/C, fluid looked very clean almost like new.


Transmission, Fluid was light brownish, no burnt smell, magnets did have gray coating of metal paste, to be expected.



Coolant, drained 5quarts and replaced 5.
Power steering, vacuumed out and replaced 1 L cfh 11s
Fuel filter. Easy, I used a small set of vice grips to pinch fuel line and didn't purge system, I just turned car on and off a few times and then I cranked maybe 5-6 seconds and fired right up.

Brake Fluid, vacuumed reservoir and bled brakes,1 L of DOT4 lv.

Almost everything from FCP euro.
Pro's- after watching and reading, I thought draining the coolant was going to be a big deal. I saw people having to take off fan and what not. I removed splash shield under front and lo and behold there was a 1" coolant line running parallel under radiator. I removed spring clip and let drain overnight.
Con's: fricking T/C crossmember was in the way and couldn't get to the four bolts on front of Trans. Removing crossmember wasn't too bad but it took me 3 hours to put it back. I could have used another set of hands.Kinda hard, laying on your back trying to get some leverage. Oh BTW the german bottles have a bigger size than a standard qt bottle. I knocked over bottle more than once trying to pump the fluid in (good thing it came with 7 bottles I used all of them to refill). And about 20lbs of cat litter and 2 rolls of shop towels.LOL On hindsight, I should have bought the mityvac or something similar for trans fluid. I think I have carpal tunnel now from pumping 5000 times on the cheap $9 shampoo pump I used. I did rig up a 3/8" copper tubing to the pump tubing to drain rear diff and fill trans.
I do have a question though on the fuel filter. Why run fuel through heater then filter then do a 180 to rear for 2' the 180 back to engine, instead of just straight from filter to the front to engine??:dunno:

Big Thanks to everyone on here, who made write ups and videos.

New driver's side tailgate tail light. Also saw water in the pass side, drilled a small hole in the side to let it out. Probably only a matter of time before that one goes, too.

Finally replaced plugs and coilpacks! Definitely a huge improvement over the rusty 2 last coilpacks.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...86977d0e6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1c85b10d7a.jpg

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Replaced the knocking N62 in my E70
 

Pulled out my hydrolocked rod knocking N62 (long story) and put in a replacement 70k mile one...

Ok so this has been what did I do in the past week or so...

Attachment 75168

Adaptive drive power steering hoses are a pain to deal with. I dropped the subframe onto the engine crane and lifted the engine and eventually was able to just roll it out after getting the power steering lines free and clear.

I didn't even have to remove the transmission, exhaust, or hood.

The replacement engine is in but I haven't connected the wiring and fuel system yet.

-Rich

Got the recalls taken care of. Front airbags and fuel pump/harness. Also got our second key registered for comfort access.

Dropped it off at 830, got the inspection report and work authorization at 1020, done at 310.

Yesterday I jbwelded my broken rear hatch handle shaft back together, today I'll reinstall it. Also need to download BMW Tools, because I need to code my trailer module into the car so the trailer brake lights work. Was supposed to have this done yesterday, but we found out that with a short code tripped, you can't code the AHM. And my mechanic forgot his laptop with Tool 32 at home today which really screws me. I'm going to be downloading all the tools and trying to figure it out today on my own. I'm not worried about the ISTA/P retrofitting coding, that's easy enough- I'm intimidated by tool 32. I'll need to clear the short code with tool 32 and see if it pops right back up.

I completed my heated steering wheel retrofit yesterday!

replaced the heater control valve and coolant as the vents were not consistently cold with A/C on.

drained the xdrive oil and ATF and put in new fluid. shifts are a bit quicker it seems.

...used all BMW fluids :thumbup:

Blizzak snow tires out on 18" oem wheels. Unfortunately, I'm dealing with the TPMS lamp because the tire shop I went to mentioned that the TPMS seal may leak since I didn't bring in new sensors. Standard rubber air valves were used instead.

Also, hanged out ebay backup light LEDs since one of them seemed to have burned out after only a month or so. The housing seems to be melting around the bulbs. I should keep on eye on the bulb mounts.

Car wouldn't start in -13 deg weather.