What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[andrewwynn]

He's got two cut keys both the remote doesn't work.


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[Serb404]

Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...02551s#fitment

No reason to buy the off brand ones.

perfect, thanks Nick!

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Yes but step one to sync the key is to put the master key into the ignition and turn to run then take the key our. That will be difficult with a blank.

Additional keys can be added to putting in the car. You might be able to put a non remote key in to start the process but that is most definitely off-script and should not work for theft prevent purpose. Zero chance that would work if I did the programming.

There is no "master" key. Mechanically working key can be used to turn the ignition and then any E53 remote synced with GM. For test purposes I've used my E53 and E39 diamond keys across.

[andrewwynn]

That's great feedback.

What I was calling "master" was what bmw calls key 1. That's good to know though and makes sense how people were able to use an ebay key as a remote fob.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

What I was calling "master" was what bmw calls key 1. That's good to know though and makes sense how people were able to use an ebay key as a remote fob.

Regarding remote and car & key memory functions GM will number the remotes according to order they are paired.

EWS key numbering is different because only 10 keys are ever available for one EWS module and the keys have a fixed numbering. Any individual key can be ruled out on the accepted key list on EWS.

[andrewwynn]

That's great feedback.

What I was calling "master" was what bmw calls key 1. That's good to know though and makes sense how people were able to use an ebay key as a remote fob.

Also aware of the EWS ten key limit and numbering. Wasn't aware that the remote pairing starts over each time. I do know I regularly must figure out which key is 1 2 or 3 when programing for husband/wife as I always program wife key to unlock only driver door first press and typically auto lock the doors slower speed.


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[alberniken]

Thermostatic fan was not freewheeling cold, warm or hot.

Decided to go with conversion, but wanted automatic activation rather than manual switch.

Amazon sourced 16" fan plus adjustable thermostat with probe. The fan kit came with a thermo-switch, but there was no easy way to install it, as it would require drilling/tapping a port. The adjustable 'stat came with a probe that fit snugly in-between fins on radiator.

I went the lazy route, just to make sure all was working and I will clean up later and find a switched power signal. For now it is all tapped off battery.

[andrewwynn]

I'd have prob taped the probe to the top hose vs. inisde the radiator but nice solution two thumba up.


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[Effduration]

Yeah I looked at that fan on amazon, since you can adjust when it comes on...I would also recommend you attach probe to upper radiator hose and then using the coolant temp display on the cluster sub-menu (test#7) dial in the on/off adjustment to about 100C..

Then again, I would have probably gotten a good, new Bear/Sachs viscous fan...

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by alberniken

...fan conversion
Amazon sourced 16" fan plus adjustable thermostat with probe. The fan kit came with a thermo-switch, but there was no easy way to install it, as it would require drilling/tapping a port. The adjustable 'stat came with a probe that fit snugly in-between fins on radiator.

I went the lazy route, just to make sure all was working and I will clean up later and find a switched power signal. For now it is all tapped off battery.

When I replaced my clutch fan with a high volume electric fan see this thread: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ctric-fan.html...I joined the thread at post #40, I found that I couldn't insert the temperature probe into the fins on my Nissen radiator (I tried two different probes). I didn't want to create a leak, so I did like andrewwyne suggested, and attached the adjustable thermostatic switch's probe to the radiator inlet, then I ran the sensor tubing on top of the radiator, and secured the adjustable switch on the other side (right side) in a waterproof plastic box (after I adjusted it to come on at 183F, so it would be working before the coolant got to 194F, when the thermostat opens).

I also had a problem locating a "switched power" circuit, so I decided to remove the positive and negative wires from the flashlight charger inside the glovebox, and used them as the switched power source.

I ran more wires from there, then behind the console to the driver's side, where I put a manual override switch (in case the thermostatic switch failed) and a Power Magic Pro BlackVue Vehicle Battery Discharge Prevention Switch (so I could let the fan run after the key was off, regulated as to a set voltage drop and/or time limit). I set it to switch off at 12 volts or 10 minutes (IIRC). From there, the wiring continues thru the block-off grommet above the dead pedal, and connects to the fan wiring relay. Of course, the relay's power and ground are the jumper posts underhood!

What fan did you get? Are you sure it has a high enough CFM rating for the engine?


Might I suggest that you reattach the factory fan shroud, as it really helps the fan pull air thru the radiator. I think that a shroud needs to cover about 70% of the exposed surface of the radiator. Naturally, since I had trouble pushing temperature probes into the radiator fins, the plastic rods that were supposed to mount the fan to the radiator posed the same problem. So, I used aluminum flat stock and zip ties to mount the fan to the original shroud, and put it back in place. Redneck engineering, but it works.