Don't know about the import costs but over here you can get a e53 euro spec for $4,000-$6,500 USD and we used to pull the engines out of cars and ship them back stateside as parts in HHG shipments. Back in the day...:dunno:

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^Would love to get an e70 x50d... but have a few more years before that will be legal. :(

There's one for sale on the compound for $13,300 USD Alpine White/Creme Beige

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Oops it's not a D it's a Xd50i

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Legal? Why is that?....and why do I want one now? :eeps:

That whole stupid crap of having the extra tank for the sulfur reduction chemical. It kinda bit VW in the ass since they used programming to make their stuff US qualified. European models don't have them and Germany won't allow that setup. (or vice versa) can't remember exactly.

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Can't import Euro vehicles for 25 years after model year. :(

And you want one because three turbos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3BS_SUDY0o

Well technically you can import them on day 2 but they already have to meet US EPA standards before they'll issue the permit. Not sure if shipping as parts (engine, transmission) in separate container from body still works:dunno:

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In Oz we had both the M50d and the 50i available,
and although on paper the 50i was only a few tenths of a second quicker in a standing start to 100km/h, that doesn’t tell the true story-

In the real world, having driven both back to back, the 50i destroys the M50d - especially in passing acceleration at speed; the diesel just can’t rev out and relies on its massive torque, but it’s power just completely falls off a cliff as it nears 5k rpm...

BMW X5 M50d (F15) vs BMW X5 50i xDrive (F15) : Duel 48394864

Certainly believe that. But with a tune it'd be a monster and still deliver respectable gas mileage. The 50i I imagine barely does better than my 4.8is in the mpg dept.

By the looks of the crumbs that fell out Id say 107k - or my current mileage.

Took a little run with it last night with the BLIZZAKS on it that were installed when I bought it, it however came with the Style 87's which I put on at sunset last night.

Its been a damn riot to drive and a long time coming. Today Im getting tire pressure right and doing a little cleaning. The drain line on the SC was not on correctly, so it was loosing oil and lubing my undercarriage with synthetic oil.

Next up, AC service. Snow flake lights up, but not the compressor... probably a leak. Dinan puts a custom line on it to fit the blower, Im sure thats in part to blame along with 17 years of age.

Drove it, hit 120,000 milestone
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6da7b03b29.jpg

I took the time to enjoy my progress so far :)

I'm getting very close to that mileage on my imola as well. I'll hit 119000 on the trip home tomorrow.:thumbup:

Nice work. 3m makes a great vapor barrier stick. I also did the speaker diy. Super and ways and simple with a little silicon and time and patience. I hope you soldered!

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Everything was acid prepped and soldered. :thumbup:

Congrats! I am not even at 80k yet :rofl:

Now that it's warmer I expected my cold start (coolant temp) random misfires to go away but still get them occasionally.

We're at 60F lately and still does when coolant temps are cold.

So definitely not the IL.

New coils (Bosch) and new plugs (Iridium IX)

All new gaskets and seals when VSS was done including 8 new vanos seals.

Can't figure it out.... I've switched around the coils to see if it follows but it didn't.

What else?!?!

Not losing any coolant or oil either.

I changed the mass airflow meter on my 323i and it fixed the random misfiring when starting up from time to time.

Cant promise it will fix yours but it flat fix the 323i's issues with it.

The meter eventually got bad enough it either popped a code I tracked to it or some other symptom popped up. I can't remember. I was surprised when it straightened out the missing when starting it sometimes. Since it had done it for years before I changed it.

I’ve cleaned mine twice already and put a new filter as well.

Ive never had any luck with cleaning a maf meter. I cleaned the one I changed on the 323i just for kicks but it didn't help it any.

So even though it’s not throwing any codes for the maf?

Who did your VSS job mr robot?

I think we need to start a thread of refrances for the VSS job and location.

A BMW Tech doing it on the side. Takes him 1 day to complete.

As soon as I get all of my parts together and tear in to it, I may be able to add to that VSS thread.

I’m hoping to have everything together and to be able to get started on it within the next two weeks ish.

Yep and if someone told me to change my maf back then or even suggested it I wouldn't of done it without more to go on :)

So that leaves "its old and couldn't hurt" or "at least I will have a spare if that isn't it".

Again I cant promise it will fix it but it did for me.

The one I went with was around $130 or something from oem bimmerparts.

Finally got my M3 wheel installed.

Put on a cheap eBay leather wheel wrap and wrapped the trim to somewhat match my imola trim.

That is good looking, really like the red too!

Didn’t see them, but does it have the paddle shifters too?

I suppose I’ll give it a shot for $130 I can get the OEM Bosch.

I even did the IVM for $99 but that wasn’t the culprit either.

Please spill the beans and how much. Hit me up with contact info if you don’t mind. Ty.

Changed the Two O-rings on the vacuum pump. It wasn't really leaking but did it in hopes it improves something.

Also I know the MAF on the N62 is a BOSCH unit but is it suppose to have a BMW Logo on it if it's OE?

If you purchase MAF from Dealer as OE part it will have BMW logo. If you purchase the MAF from Bosch as OEM part it will not.

Today I did some de-funking under yonder bonnet.

I also hooked up INPA chasing a fault code after the blower rebuild & tranny replacement.

DMTL pump code (189) came back a few times along with 3 separate codes all pointing to a post cat sensor.....which I just as soon delete post cat from the lines of code.

Changed the thermostat on my 3.0D. A very easy job once the EGR pipe is removed and easy to bleed the system with a couple of hot-cold cycles and the bleeder valve at the top of the radiator.

The engine warms up well and holds it temperature very well now. Just in time for winter here and some towing of our 1100kg camper trailer.

Don't even have to remove the fan... :thumbup:

Replaced the left front CV axle. Had to go to 2 different parts stores to rent a 12pt axle nut and a 7-ton puller. But now I know even simple axle changes take longer on a BMW than a Chevy.

The left is a beast to get out at least on LHD cars. Almost impossible to find any place to get leverage.

Took the X5 in for its 357,000 service :D Time for engine oil and filter and brake fluid flush. As an added bonus, it was treated to two new motor mounts and a rear driveshaft guibo :rolleyes: But the FSR and its harness connector were replaced under warranty :thumbup: The last one overheated so badly it melted the connector and that's why I had intermittent blower operation.


2002 X5 3.0 357,500 miles
2014 428i 61,800 miles (The CEO is adding them at 1400 per week lately)


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration with reassembly starting in June

today, drum roll ………………….. :):)
to do. change PS pump, timing , and the engine covers, and all the rest of it ,
total time 8 hours work,.

:)

Sounds like you got an axle from advance Auto parts like me. I had to do the same thing

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Gave Red a wash and put in new anthracite OE floor mats. Sooooooooo much better than the all weather OE mats. I'm the type who likes to kick off his flip flops and feel the carpet. Oh, I also noticed they no longer use that stupid foam that always disintegrates on the back of the floor mats. They use a different material that should help with longevity. "So I got that going for me." ;)

I need to do that. My floor mats are perfect because they are always covered with the all weather mats but the foam started disintegrating.

I don't think mine has been washed since the year started.


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I bought mine from FCP this time anticipating the foam failing in 3 or 4 years and would utilize the lifetime warranty. Was going to just order a new set when 2 or 3 of the mats foam had failed and the mats started wandering around the floor pan. Most irritating. But at least I can just buy a new set and the cost (minus shipping) will be refunded. :thumbup: Might be a non-issue now though due to the backing material change.

That's not good. They're like women, need love and attention or they start to get angry. Then bad things happen. ;)

Back in town? You should come by. See the final result of the aero kit in person.

Naw. Still down range. I had her go get the oil change the other day and new front tires. Everything is running well with it. I just don't think she's washed it.

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Yesterday, wipers stopped working. I can see it moving a bit so I knew motor was good. Today, I searched for possible cause. True enough, it was the one of the trio bolts (bottom one) that holds the wiper motor in place as what others have experienced.


This bottom bolt has a habit of coming off causing the wiper mechanism to jam on it. Applied locktite on the bolt and everything is good.

Lucked out: the bolt can be broken right off. Or the wiper arm from the motor can break. One of my very first repairs was that I noticed one wiper had a "stutter" where it would stop in a repeated way with a clunk : the wiper arm was broken but was jammed in such a way it still worked-ish.

Rather than replace I cut a 6" piece of angle iron and made a splint. That was nearly 4 years and 50,000 miles ago.

Why? A new wiper arm is only about $50?

Whole motor mechanism the "arm" I mention is what turns rotary to back and forth motion. Used over $100 new a gazillion

changed left passengers side (uk car) door carrier, and replaced, rear boot handle ,

Wow it's been a while for me.

Just got the X5 3.0 out of storage. Replacing the leaking evaporator with a new Behr, and having the expansion valve (Egelhoff) and condenser (Behr) done too for good measure.

I just had some work on my E39 done and got the chance to drive a 2019 x1 28i. Made a quick review video on it here, if the E53 guys are interested:

https://youtu.be/0_o83KetEYY

My wife's 2005 X5 3.0i is just hitting 175,000 miles and going strong. It's due for a set of tires and front brakes, oil change. Some oil pan dripping. It is pretty tempting to start to look at a replacement but the X1 is not it, in my opinion.

It sure is nice to get back into the E53 after driving the X1. Totally different feel.

That X1 looks "good" but I have to ask..

Does it come in adult size? That X1 is just one wash in hot water away from becoming a Jetta.

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:bustingup

No to the X1. I think they look terrible, not even sure how they are on their 2nd gen. Drove the new X3 M40i, now that is a nice SAV! Can only imagine what the new X3M will be like.

----

Took the 4.8iS on it's longest road trip to date (~700 miles). Great highway bruiser, I was avg almost 22 mpg at one point. :rofl: Coming up on it's next oil service.

Hahaha. That's it. Shit. Flew to Albany NY. Bought mine and drive it back to San Antonio, TX.
That's the longest trip I've had it on since.
Averaged about 19mpg tho. Cruise control set at 80 most of the way.

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I had a ride in the X3 M40i and it is soooo much nicer than the X1. Next time I will request to get that as a loaner if possible.

I made this:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0aa0721d8e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf5a826e7e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a04db0fb24.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2db262dc22.jpg

A roller bearing upgrade for my 30 ton in-place bearing press. I have two upcoming bearing jobs: front for me, rear for wife. I completely forgot I had bought these 1" roller bearings a couple years ago. It's not optimized for thrust so in order to beef up the strength I u buddy turn a steel donut to hold the outer race so it wouldn't self destruct.

That is impressive! And just has to make things that much easier. Haven’t done a bearing yet, which is more “fun” front or rear?

Front requires more power the 1" bolt was necessitated from the first three 3/4" bolts that came with the bearing press being "single use". A grade 8 3/4 may have helped but the ones out could find III think were grade 5.

With the 1" bolt the front is an easier job mostly because in the back it's a bear to get to the e-torx bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the car.

Both jobs well within typical DIY. I plan to take some measurements so people can make their own press.

I want to see what kind of torque is required (going to try to use a 3/4" ratchet by hand) since the last time I just used my big impact tool.

The first couple times I used long extension and ratchet but lots of heat on the knuckle to break it loose. After applying what amounted to a calculated 35,000# the bearing didn't move.

I heated the knuckle to about 240°F and the bearing snapped into motion with a literal BANG as loud as if you just snapped a 1/2" bolt. I thought something broke.

The third and 4th bearings I did I had the 1" bolt and the 750 ft·lb impact so the personal effort dropped 90%.

I'm going to make some how-to guides for both front and back.

I'm working on a non-destructive way to remove the front hub without a slide hammer. I don't recommend using a slide hammer on the front lest you damage one of the FOUR ball joints that are attached to the bearing carrier (knuckle). My usual method is using long 14mm bolts through the lug holes but that destroys the dust cap behind the hub. I'm trying to invent a way to use a push press from inside and push the hub out.

Andrew - good idea, but a flat thrust roller bearing is really what you need. The tapered roller is very limited on its axial load capacity (think of older cars with tapered front wheel bearings and typical bearing pre-loads of 12-15 lb ft and then backing off one notch) and I think you'll find it binds up before you're able to get a high enough torque on the bolt to be effective. It's worth a try though, so let us know if it's successful.

I'm aware I even joked with my buddy there is a good chance the rollers will lock Into the race and make 20 little dents that just start to turn the whole part I just made.

The bearing cost me $1.50 and I made the donut to hold it for free. I still have the bronze thrust bushing as plan B if the bearing fails.

I estimated with the sharp angles of the rollers that 30,000# linear becomes 150-200,000# sideways so with 80,000 psi steel i need 2.5 SQ in. That's nearly exactly the size of the donut so that will hold. The weak link is the bearing/race interface as there will be a stupid amount of pressure. I may be inventing a "20-sided torx bolt/tool" as the bearings are pressed into the race.

I'm considering using the bronze bushing for the initial break and switching to the roller after to increase my odds.


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I hit 190K yesterday!

Not all today, but, this week: New Meyle front rotors and OEM pads. New passenger side door carrier. Fixed the broken passenger window switch. New 6K low beams. Lubed up the steering joint. New oil & filter. Added a few ounces of refrigerant. New cabin air filter. Polished the heck out of the headlamps.

In general, all the rear suspension is new including subframe bushings, the front suspension is 80% new, the body is extremely clean, the interior is near mint, it still drives and handles fantastic. Sooner or later my transfer case will call it quits. I've got a backup waiting. I'm getting the "clunk" when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a16fd817a5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d19e4dc2cc.jpg

Chili Red vs Imola Red


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Spotted another 4.8is [emoji102][emoji41]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d3b328cc0.jpg


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Mine is getting full detail. Paint correction. Ceramic coat. Leather treatment. Everything.
Waaaay overdue.


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Who's doing it for you Rhon? She's going to look gooooooood afterwards.

Mine has been sitting for the past few days awaiting a new rear driver's side airbag. It has an intermittent leak depending on how the bag sits.

My buddy Wayne.
https://instagram.com/vipautowerks_w...d=nl4qn5eqockp

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Got her allll cleaned up.. and then took her out for a ride!

Can't see the page, it's private. But definitely in for pics. :thumbup: I need to get Red cleaned up again after all the rain we've had. Poor thing has had to sleep outside during the bathroom remodel. #Firstworldproblems :D

Painted my exhaust tips black. (Stole the idea). Now that the rain is done and my job sites are no longer muddy, completely power washed and detailed my wheel wells. All the crap in there was driving me nuts.

Pictures please


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Ahhhh. Didn't know it was private.
He's been doing detailing for years.
He's really good.
I can give you his contact info?

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Wish I could. This site always asks for a URL anytime I try to post photos. Is there away around that?

I upload pics direct to the site.

Try that using the section below this reply box:

Then choose the file from your machine to upload.

I use tapatallk there is no better way


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+1

Tapatalk does all the resizing and so on. I had a problem with it for a month where I could only get it to start via the alert but that's been solved by the app folks.

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Someone the wife got cement stuck to the sides. My guy got it off and the rest is coming along nicely.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...28510ec22c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...874281e799.jpg

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^Coming along nicely. Day is shaping up to be nice too. Supposed to have more rain this week though. You going to keep her in the garage all week after the detail?

I've been using WOT Detailing off Bandera. Good guys. Not the cheapest, but I trust them with the truck, which goes a long way. Used to go to Concourse but they got ridiculously expensive and were always booked like a month out and rarely delivered on time. Definitely post pics after completion and PM your guy's contact info. Does he do ceramic coatings as well?

Gave her a wash and parked her away from everyone at work. Still glance back at her every time I take her out

Probbaly not, not a fan of the M3 sitting out in the elements with the ragtop.
Yeah, he does it all man. He's pretty much a freelance pro detailer.
Ceramic coat will help it stay shiney longer. I got that specifically because it sits outside.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4a78481da2.jpg

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All done. Wish I could see it myself. Looks amazing.
So nice the wife put it in the garage and put the M3 outside. Lol. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1b7c99dbac.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5f159a9e06.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...107517642d.jpg

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Niiiice....

I can't wait until I get mine repainted and ceramicoated, but any dark colors in the Middle East makes people burst into flames like the nazi's in Raiders of the Lost Ark....

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Hi Snik,

Could you offer a source for your side marker LEDs?

Thanks.

Mike

Looking good Snik! :thumbup:

These are the ones I bought. They come in 2 flavors. 4 flat LEDs and 3 LEDs with different angles. He bought the 4 flat, I got the 3 angled. Directional visibility would be the only real difference between them I would imagine. Mine have been on since 2017. Both styles are ~$30 on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BAR-Autotec...8AAOSwdGFY0Nw-

You can also buy them from Bimmian now for $30. They used to be $50 a couple of years ago which is why I bought them on Ebay.

https://bimmian.com/led-side-lenses-...es-lci-e53-x5/

Shit man. Either eBay or something. They were like $20. I think maybe ddmtuning or something.


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Replaced both upper control arms and the driver side CV axle. My wobble is finally gone! And yes I preloaded everything before tightening. The reason I'm posting the picture is because I didn't remove the rotor or the brake caliper to take the CV axles out. I used this method on both sides and you're wasting time if you're taking them off unless you really just want to..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8c3092586.jpg

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Agreed on rotor for CV: especially if you are replacing a control arm. I just disconnect from the shock tower and the "knuckle" will fold out of the way with the 3-4 ball joints still attached.

Yeah, timely, need to do both outer fronts on the 3.0.

Just did fuel filter and right front power window mechanism yesterday.

Had the LCD screen replaced with one I ordered off ebay and the viewing angle is off :/

Just a simple bath today... Always love a black car right out of the wash... :thumbup:

Best with black grill


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Looks awesome and I do love the blacked out look, but if mine was black in Saudi.... It'd be like trying to touch a singularity while wearing a banana hammock.

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:bustingup I'm guessing Mother's Day isn't a thing over there either?

Not really but this year they made Valentine's day legal...

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Routine Maintenance
 

Engine Flush
Engine Oil & Filter change.
R&R Drive & A/C Belt....


Here's where the fun started...


Busted the thermostat housing...replaced with new; $50.00.
Reset SVC lights.



Cleaned the driveway...


I've removed a number of cooling fans over the years; have 7 dedicated wrenches on the wall....but I got careless and the housing was very brittle. Once I got it out, I could break it by hand.


Cooling fan notes: 1-1/4" wrench; set it up and impact (wap it) the wrench to the right (clockwise). Re-thread counter-clockwise (funest part of every fan R&R)...



Advise to change that bugger out after 100k miles.


Got a airbag recall notice last month; dealer did a visual while it was there and quoted me $425.00 to chg belts and repl. coolant....nope!


Back on the road!


G

Bought her some flowers

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6a86b503a.jpeghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef88df6786.jpg


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She must be special. Those roses cost a fortune over here. Beautiful.

Blue roses don't cost as much further from UNC. ;)

:bustingup

Wrap some tape around the nut. Hold fan by a blade in the right place and pull the tape like starting a lawn mower

Painted tail pipe tips black. Photo this time.

Looks good. :thumbup: I have some black OEM tip covers that come on the factory sport package from mine if you want them.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I fixed my random fuel gauge:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...uel-gauge.html

I like your exhaust. What do you have on yours?

I bought these and had the muffler shop weld them on to my 3.0L mufflers. You need to shorten the tips by cutting all the 2.5" inlet almost all the way to the "Y" and then leave just enough tip on the 3.0L muffler to weld to. All in was about $200. $70 plus shipping on the tips and around $100 at the muffler shop. :thumbup:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009R6ZSWI...iglink20444-20

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1pgP3HkfuL.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...107_095425.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...107_111444.jpg

I like them. Does it change the sound any?

No sound difference at all. All the "muffling" is done before the tips. Just looks better than the ED tips on the 3.0L. ;)

That's for sure! :thumbup:

I bought my 4.8is about a week and a half ago. One major point of contention is that the brakes and brake system were so terrible and unsafe that I made a point to address this issue soon. As you can see by the photos provided, the rear rotors and pads were shot. Deep gouging along the surface, strange pad wear near the outer circumference, tons of rust. The front rotors were warped enough to cause pulsation under heavy or prolonged braking. In addition to pads and rotors, I also did an entire brake fluid flush as the pedal feel was also off to me. Low and behold, the fluid was turning brown and I had air in the lines on both the passenger rear and front. Passenger rear fluid had particulate in it.

The parts I used were from ebay seller brake_overstock. I didn’t feel it necessary to go OEM or something from Pelican. There are tons of reviews regarding the QC of this brand so I’ll spare the details and internet arguments. Fluid was ATE super blue (which I prefer to use in all my BMW’s). Price including shipping for four rotors, four sets of pads and 1L of ATE was $250. I reused the wear sensors without issue. Just pop them off the old pads and pop them into the new ones. Total installation time with one-person bleeding was about 2.5 hrs. Bedding took about five minutes following the manufacturer recommendation. Driving this afternoon, everything works nicely. My preference tends to be blanks, but for the price decided to give this setup a try.

Rear assembly
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d4l1zyzk5t...2044.jpg?raw=1

Close-up of rear rotor
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sb6qah4llm...2049.jpg?raw=1

New rear rotor and ceramic brake pads
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hu22xtk2u9...2007.jpg?raw=1

New front rotor and pads
https://www.dropbox.com/s/72z2q6e3jk...2029.jpg?raw=1

Front pass wheel
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8jyznnib9f...2011.jpg?raw=1

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Holy shit.
Wouldn't be shocked if one of those calipers was sticky.
I'd keep a close eye on the new pads to see if they're wearing evenly.


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Jeez, what Snik said. Good job getting those off the truck. Keep an eye on the calipers for sure. I guess if you aren't getting any pulling or dragging you're in the clear. Also, where did you find Super Blue? I thought the feds outlawed colored brake fluid... because you know, people willing to do their own brakes can't find the right reservoir for it. :rolleyes:

I've used brake overstock before. No problems. Been using Brake Motive now for the last 5ish years with the same results. Similarly priced. Can't beat a full brake setup with ceramic pads for the 4.8 for $230. :thumbup:

Indeed. I knew this buying the truck. During the test drive with the PO I told him flat out that “the brakes are shit” and used that (and a few other things) to haggle on price. Though, the backside of the rotors are worse which I didn’t see at first. Irrespective, I knew this would be dealt with soon with new parts.


I am...I’ll rebuild those if they are pressing stupid. With all the new seals and a dremel this can be done in half a day with rebleeding..or maybe pick up some used rear calipers and swap them out.

Super blue can be had online. There are German and UK sellers with stock on hand. Occasionally you will find someone in the US selling it. Of course...you’re not breaking a federal law unless the feds arest you for it!:D On a more serious note, federal law requires brake fluid to be amber in color, no acceptions. Ate was selling super blue as a compliant fluid even though it obviously wasn’t. Being the stubborn Germans that they are they said ‘f this nonsense, we’re not changing or relabeling anything for the US government’. They very well can sell/market super blue as a race-online non-compliant brake fluid but don’t. Also, if you want you can dye your own brake fluid using a glycol friendly dye. It doesn’t take much.

Agreed. The price and quality is a no-brainer. Happy wrenching!

167,000 niles and still looks good from 10 feet away
 

3 more layers of Klasse sealant glaze today.

It is still early in the detailing season here in the Northeast

Far to many rainy/snowy days

Just bought this bad boy...

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/dw/...sh=1000&sm=fit

My X5 has developed a bad engine rumble/whine when cold (and it's cold here!) that goes away once the engine warms up. I can also hear the viscous fan coupling run-on once I turn off the (warmed-up) engine and the coupling bearings sound like crap. I'm going to pull the coupling (and fan) off and drive the car to see if that's the culprit (pretty sure it is). Will remove belts and check all pulleys/tensioners etc. too, while I'm in there. Water pump, alternator and power-steering are also possibilities but I'll start with the easy items first!! ;)

Don’t forget to use the super long flat-head screwdriver trick to bust that 32 mm nut loose.

Do tell....

But... before you do, I should point out that the water pump on my M57 diesel is nothing like the water pump on either the M54 or M62/N62 engines.... the M57 water pump has a round boss with two flats, so you can hold it with a regular wrench....

Now you're just rubbing salt in it for fun[emoji38]

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Lucky you. Most BMW’s that I have owned require using a long flat head to pin/hold the assembly in place at two of the three smaller bolts while counter-leveraging/torquing in the opposite direction to break the 32 mm loose.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Most the cars I've worked on smack the 32mm with a big hammer and get it to break loose no need to hold the clutch.

https://youtu.be/lozXFFwfok8

That bad boy will fit your oil filter housing too... :2thumbs:

On the fan clutch; clockwise to come off (wap it), counter to go on.


Might as well repl the thermostat n housing if it's the brittle original.


I think the tensioner bolts were 17mm ) a/c tensioner bolt is sorta hidden...

That is slick!

Thanks all - great tips!

But in the end it was a non-event. It wasn't very tight - the fan boss undid easily and just spun off by turning the fan blade.

I pulled the rad shroud and removed all the belts, checked all the tensioners/idlers etc. Checked for any play on the water pump, alternator and power steering pulleys/shafts - all good. As was the belt - like new.

And I found my noise - the viscous coupling is pooched. Check out this video...

https://youtu.be/kdhRraCZorA

So I've put it all back together, sans the mech fan and coupling. Boy, is it quiet now, esp. when I shut it down. Instant silence - whereas before there was the grinding of buggered bearings for about 3 seconds after shut down as the fan wound down.

As it's winter and I know the aux fan is working, I'll run with no mech fan for a bit but I'll watch the KTMP value like a hawk. Thermostat is an 88DegC. unit, so engine runs pretty cool most of the time

Debating the pros and cons of converting to an all electric setup - the cost of the coupling is similar to that of an electric conversion. Will sleep on it.... for quite a few nights.

You really don't need to hawk eye the temp too much once you verify the elec fan kicks on as it is supposed to.

Warm up the car and turn on the AC then sit while idling it usually just takes a few minutes before the temp gets warm enough for the elec fan to engage.

You usually can hear from the cabin.

I'm planning to take my mech fans off next winter instead of blocking the fan with cardboard

I bought the "bmw" tool for removing the fan blade from the water pump. I use it about 1/2 the time and just hit a wrench with a hammer the other times.

Takes to long lining the tool up with the bolt heads on the pulley best I remember.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40b45a4dd9.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0de6818287.jpg

More "for fixin'" my X5 but I was removing all the rattles from my new aluminum 2T floor jack when I noticed how crappy the main wheels were made: the hole through the middle was a cone shape.

Had my brother cut an inset into the hub of the wheel where I could add a 1/2 x 3/4 with 1" flange bronze bushing.

Now the wheels actually use the entire width vs push a dent into the asphalt as they lean 4°

As a bonus, I put o-rings bewteen every touching piece of metal so I can bring the thing with me without going insane.

(Tapping metal is a huge trigger for my misophonia). I came close to throwing it out the window on my last trip home.

The gray is JB Weld to fill the conical space from the unmachined cast iron (the inner hole went from about 19 to 21mm!)

Maybe it’s supposed to be that way? I mean any idiot with a drill press can make a straight hole, a conical one takes effort. Maybe they are supposed to flex and lock when conical? I dunno. Just shooting the shit.

Shouldn't have to block off the fans but if that is necessary consider an electric fan. I installed one several years ago for performance benefits. I set the variable thermostat so that the fan comes on just before the aux fan does which means the aux fan seldom runs. Aftermarket fan generates far more CFM than mechanical fan and it runs when the engine is off until the engine drops and stays below thermostat setting thus preventing any heat soak.

Its die cast. The mold was conical so it will release and the moron engineers decided to skip the drill out and make a cylinder step.


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Bought it's replacement. 4.8iS has to go now!

Other than when my t-stat was broken open I didn't "need" to block the fan but it helps how quickly the car heats up. I like the idea of switching to two electric fans but I also like the idea of just taking off the mechanical fan for a couple months in the winter.

I can't be sure but I think the car actually runs a little cooler with the fan off. :confused:

I guess on my (short) runs to work, the fan never contributed much cooling but as it wasn't driven, it did "block" airflow through the radiator somewhat. Without it in place, air flow is unimpeded and I swear it runs a few degrees cooler. :rolleyes:

Still looking at electric alternatives. I want a variable fan though, not just on/off.

Swap my Xenon headlights today. the original ones were very faded. they probably could be saved but I got a nice set for cheap.



Anyone needs a set? from a pre-facelift 2003

Upper windshield trim thing. Mine literally crumbled in my hands. More of a pain in the ass than I anticipated.

Advice. Lots of soap and water in a spray bottle. Lots.

1/8” overlap on each end under the vertical trim.

1/2” thick wood block, and a mini rubber mallet. Push in both ends. Keep going toward middle. Middle I got stuck. Could be cause I just didn’t have the leverage. Block of wood against the trim. Couple of love taps with a mini mallet, and it will pop in.

Pulling it out is easy. Pull back vertical trim. Grab pliers and pull toward sunroof and up.

I used pain thinner and compressed air to clean out the area.

Oh yeah, what did you get?


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2001 BMW X5 3.0i 5MT with 204k miles. Replaced front wheel bearings.

This is on my to-do list. I wonder if the compound was changed by BMW considering soooooo many X5’s have this issue. Pretty lucky that this can be fixed in less than a half hour rather than an entire new windshield replacement . Every windshield business will try and sell you a new window with that seal, but of course some likely have no idea this is even possible.

Did you open the sun roof and stand out of your truck to get the middle of the strip in?

No. I probably should have though. But it was hot as hell outside and my garage has low ceiling. So I committed to doing it inside.

The new trim felt about the same, but not 14 years old.

Change 107k mile original spark plugs. Now more misfires and slug.

Trips to the dealer are so much fun post aero kit. Brought Red in for a brake fluid flush this morning with the wife. Kids were being watched by their aunt so we ran errands of course. :rolleyes: It was fun anyway looking at the lot, wife was interested in a 2016 X5M for $51,000. Told her to keep dreaming. :rofl:

Anyway, after an hour and a half the SA came to get us and was asking about the X5. Said the techs were going goo goo over it and taking pics so she was curious about it. That always gives "the feels" to think the X5 is something "special." Told her they probably just don't see many of them anymore and paid (~$160 in case anyone is shopping the job) and left. Gave the gas an extra little stab while inside the enclosed service drive to hear the exhaust. It's the little things in life right? ;)

I've definitely been overseas too long as all I could think of after reading your post was that with a sandbag and duct tape you could of left the dealership with your very own mechanic and his tools....[emoji38]

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Finally finished my valve stem seals! I put the rocker arm back on the last one this evening- those suckers are done!

Now I just have to put it all back together [emoji16]

I mean, it is IR, and that body kit adds a 3rd level of uniqueness.
Figure just being an IR 4.8iS is rare as is.

I like hearing stuff like that.
Next time hit me up, I have a mighty vac positive pressure brake bleeder.
Easy and clean.
I need to take my zhp over there for the airbag recall.


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121,380 miles; replaced the accelerator pedal and final stage resistor, @$200.00, & 30 min.



Hug my 2002 x5, 3.0i; lov'n it!


Previous accelerator had a slight "snag" at the begining of the acceleration movement, and the blower fan was acting possessed.


Gonna repl the D/S/F window regulator this weekend.

Ordered my left rear regulator from the dealer today. It comes in tomorrow morning so I will be replacing it first thing.

Just scored a set of adjustable comfort seat headrests from an E65 for my 4.8iS

Took forever to find matching cream beige headrests, but I got a pair.

Mine are nappa, the ones I got are nasca leather. I'm still uncertain what the difference is, but both are labeled cream beige according to the VIN decoder. So should match perfectly.

I are excited.


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Replaced my left rear window regulator today and had her washed. Only to have the TPMS light flip on pulling back into the garage. Checked pressures and left rear 30 PSI. A quick look to find a nail stud buried in that tire. Damn it. :banghead:

I have the same issue with the left rear. Not losing air though so I just leave it. I know it's too close to the shoulder for the major tire chains to want to patch it... and I'm not paying them $800 for a new one. :confused:

Yeah mine is also close the the shoulder (about 1" from the shoulder) so I took it by NTB to have the tech come out and take look at it in case he had to order a replacement. He thinks he can save it so fingers crossed... Appointment tomorrow 5:00 PM.

One inch from the shoulder might still be repairable. Is it a name brand tire or knock off?

I found a little very smooth "stone" in my tire recently. When I tried to pick it out It it steadfastly refuses.

Closer inspection revealed it's either a screw or a nail and it's closer to the edge than they will want to fix even though it's pretty far away, my outer tread blocks are quite wide, the first groove as like 2" from the sidewall.

I'm just leaving it in. That tire is on the chopping block anyhow. Getting cupped and I have a replacement tire ready for when I update the rear suspension

Conti DWS06 315/35/20 ZR. Not too bad but still close to 300 bones if it needs replacement.

Are you sure it's a leaker? Could it be a nail/etc. that is partially in there, but not an actual puncture?

My brother in law came over on the weekend for me to help him plug his tire, and after getting the wheel off, everything ready, we found that it was not even a real puncture. Pulled the object out and it had only gone in about 3/16" below the surface - between treads so there was more of that sticking up above. So of course, no repair was made.

Fortunate to see that my ABS module is not failing again after getting the ABS, DSC, and brake lights in the dash again. I thought something seemed odd once my engine would go into fail safe mode, my idle was very rough all the sudden. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c58b1b43a1.jpg

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My freezing evaporator also stopped after I recharged my Freon in the X5. Finally blows all day without freezing over!

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Actually I have no apparent leak I do not know if the screw is self sealing or does not go in far enough to be a problem. Since the tire is run on flat and I have a spare and power tools for changing a tire on the road I don't need to pull it out to find out.

Cords push pretty far on most Contis....my bet is that it can be fixed. If they don't pull the tire off and pull the object and inspect, they can't give you a positive yes or no on repair. If they just look at it and say "sorry, you need a new tire..." what they are really saying is "sorry, you need a better tire/repair shop."

E90 M3

Ooooo. I want one of those, but not to replace the X5, but to replace both E46s.


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brake going to floor
 

when braking kinda hard break goes to floor feel cailbor going in out feel wierd
.

my rear passenger regualor is out and now my drivers ide window regualor went out

how long of a job is it and how to dou get the foam off the door panel black glue looking stuff

can i do it my self ?

2003 bmw x5 4.4i

@tmat1977 you can replace the regulator yourself. There are some very good write ups here and also youtube. The vapor barrier can carefully be removed and replaced with the same sticky stuff if you are careful.

Today with my E53 6MT at 130,628 I performed the following:

Changed the oil with 7 quarts of Mobil 1 0-40w and a Mahle filter.
Changed the transmission oil with just less than two quarts of Redline MT-90
Replaced transmission fill and drain plugs.
Replaced engine air filter and cabin filter. The cabin filter looked like it really was in a cabin in the woods with leaves and branches all about.
Replaceed all three windshield wipers with BMW OEM.

The transmission was sometimes hard to shift into 2nd. It does feel better now. Though now I am just learning to start in second instead of first which is a very low, low gear.

Thank you FCPeuro as I don't expect to buy any of the above again.

What's next?

Brad

Cut the vapor barrier glue right through the middle with one of the long extending razor blades.

Heat with hot air or a micro torch and it will seam back together like the day it was assembled


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The first thing they said was "oh no, that's outside of the limit we can fix legally". I said I spoke with the manager and the tech said "ok, I'll take it off and have a look at it". Dismounted the tire, prepped the puncture and installed a mushroom plug from the inside. A couple of days later, so far so good :thumbup:

I understand policy is policy, but common sense and having someone take the time to thoroughly inspect something right is not something you see every day. Glad to see they took the time to help you out. :thumbup:

Yeah, just a generic "we can't legally repair that". If it had been a little closer to the shoulder I would agree. The best part was the repair was free since I bought the tires from that NTB so I tossed the tech a 20 spot and all good...

Outstanding choice. This will be a collector. Fortunately prices are still all over the place as the fan boys are still scared of *gasp* an M3 with a massive V8.

Today I had the stealership enable/disable some key fob features:
*Key press unlock once unlocks all doors
*5 mph all doors lock
*90 second courtesy lights
*disabled steering wheel easy entry
*key press unlock once adjusts seat and mirror position to its respective key
*increase park sensor tone
*increase park sensor sensitivity

I was going to do daytime running lights but meh, the highbeams dimmed looks stupid IMO. I then asked if the technician could disable the orange side marker lights but he didn’t have a setting for it such that the halos are the only lights on. He said it wasn’t possible. Too bad as it looks pretty nice, especially with updated/upgraded bulbs.

Washed her and did an oil and filter change.

It is very possible with BMW Scanner 1.4 or NCS Expert. You can even code the halos as additional turn signals with either software...

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...ingsideoff.png

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...er_delete1.jpg

I was just reading the thread with the owner in the Pacific Northwest who is looking for a setup to tweek his truck and you were referenced a few times. I wish I knew about this ten hours ago! I would have waited and ordered what I needed! Still will though, for future adjustments!;)

Recheck my post above. Edited to show more...

That looks so sweet.

I believe that corner delete is standard European light operation. Those of us running the aftermarket Android radios have our halos programmed as DRL. (no light switch to position 1 or 2 needed) It will require an Android radio and the iBus adapter for that to work. We have tried for years to accomplish that by coding the factory LCM module with zero results. I guess BMW knew the factory halos were never going to be bright enough for DRL and never offered that option. But LED technology and development never stops... 15 years later, here we are... :thumbup:

my x5 need help with mods
 

Any thoughts on what else i should do

magnaflow with xpipe and performance mufflers being installed this coming week

I bought a steath box for the rear cargo door with a JLAudio 10 off ebay fits perfect

I can't decide on what aftermarket head unit to put in i have eonon ga9166 not having the gardest time installing it looks like i have to cut the factroy stero bracket becasue i have business cd with dsp any one do this install before?

Thank you

Replaced all four rotors with new pads. Pads were in good shape but rotors were uber dished. Brake shimmy is now gone. :thumbup:

engine coolant
 

is there a major difference in using green stuff in your 2003 e53 x5 as apposed to the blue oem blue stuff?

Nope. The new green stuff is ok for any brand. I use the green because I can get it anywhere and in both full strength and mixed.

I'm assuming you mean coolant

after market head lights
 

i think i have basic head lights on my e53 2003 4.4 can i just plug and play led lights for bightness?

any suggesstions

No. You will need to code out voltage monitoring (also called cold check monitoring) in the LKM. Otherwise, best case, the bulbs work... but flash periodically when the LKM checks them and you will get a check message on the dash.

BMW Scanner 1.4.0 will do this :)

Yes, as will Carly (what I used to do it), and ISTA I believe. :thumbup:

led lights part number or link
 

anybody have link for me to get the led light rings angel eyes?

I was thinking of buy new head light assemblys or just restore the ones now and smoke them out myself


thoughts?

I just snagged a setup on eBay and will have an XP pro running Panasonic Toughbook by next weekend. Let the tweaking and code pulling commence! Side note, if anyone in the Seattle area wants to use this setup, no worries. Just supply the coffee and lunch ;)

General note to the thread, the kidneys on the hood were peeling off the Titan color, so I pulled all the grills and sprayed an epoxy based paint that matches the Shadowline trim. I chose epoxy for its durability against minor rock and bug chips to the finish.

Back to the original stated purpose of this thread:
 

Last week I had a new valve body installed in the transmission of my wife's '05 X5. I bought a rebuilt valve body from RevMax ( https://revmaxconverters.com/ ) and had it installed by my local indie BMW wrench. After a year of intermittent hard shifts and a terrible 2-1 slam if you didn't stop completely, now my transmission is like new. I should have sprung for this 6 months ago. I was so happy with the change that I sprung for a $150 detail job before I gave it back to my wife. She was ecstatic with her "like new" car. i heartily recommend that anybody considering a valve body switch, look at RevMax's products and read about the improvements that they add. Worked magic for me.

AceEngineer :cool:

Yeah. It's amazing. I had mine rebuilt last fall. Shifts flawlessly.
Didn't use revmax tho.


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In case it helps, I just installed BMW Scanner 1.4 / PA Soft on my Win10 laptop on Saturday.

Copying from a post I made yesterday on this:

I bought something called BMW Scanner 1.4 on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Programmer-...3/132853106131

Searching eBay for the 1.4 BMW Scanner will find it. I paid $12. Was supposed to come from China, but somehow mine arrived 3 days later from within CA. That eBay listing very clearly says that it will only work on Windows XP, but I did not try that since it worked fine on my Win10.

Then these instructions:
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpo...72&postcount=1
Work perfectly. No need think, guess, iterate, experiment. I just followed them exactly (despite the post being 7 years old), using my completely normal Win10 x64 laptop (about as normal as you can get), and it installed, ran, etc.

Reading / clearing errors (including some my Foxwell NT520Pro did not find), editing EEPROM, etc. all worked exactly as it was supposed to.

Started my long journey back to the sandbox and while at the airport lounge I get a call telling me that my AC clutch locked up and smoked my belt and my driver can't pick us up...

The joys of making international calls for a rollback and mechanic to get the X ready for my arrival in 18 hrs.... when it's too late to grab a rebuilt clutch for $87 USD[emoji38]

Not using Arab Uber....

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Unless no AC means certain death out there (does it?), could someone just cut the AC belt off? I know on the M54, the AC belt is for AC and only AC. Good luck.

Yeah it's pretty much skillet time without AC as the temperature runs around 120 daily and 140 on hot days[emoji38]

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Had H&R sport springs and a fresh set of rear tires installed. I think the drop in front looks great, but I would like to adjust the rear sls to be a bit lower.

https://i.postimg.cc/NfbRF1fR/1-A4-D...B829637-F7.jpg

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Hahha. Absolutely man. I'm in Kuwait now and it's like 100F by 0830 in the morning. Bahrain is just as hot.


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So you only did springs up front, and kept the air out back?
Looks great, what model springs did you go with?

What exhaust setup is that?

What shoes are those? they look great.


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Thanks! I went with the H&R Sport Springs, which are just front springs and rear height sensor arms for vehicles with rear self leveling suspension.You can find them (and the non-sls springs) here:

https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...s&autoModClar=

Exhaust is Dinan.

Wheels are Vossen VPS 306 in satin bronze with Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires.

https://i.ibb.co/DLhw8c4/IMG-3616.jpg

I also recently found an acoustic cover (mine was missing) and did some trimming so it would fit over the vacuum lines for the supercharger.

https://i.ibb.co/hfzD8dB/IMG-3418.jpg

How long you TDY? I'll be back in Kingdom midday on the 7th, so if our schedules sync we can meet up in Bahrain or maybe there in Kuwait depending.. [emoji38]

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Interesting. I'm sitting on H&R springs all around, but the front of mine def doesn't sit that low. I wish it did.

Didn't realize it was a Dinan X5. Those are awesome.


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