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  #121  
Old 01-21-2017, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semcoinc View Post
You're welcome.

PS: FYI, I used a short length of wire to make the connection from the factory tabs to the JL tabs. Not knowing the strength of the JL tabs, I did not want to bend them over and solder them.

And BTW, you'll need a T30 bit
I was thinking the same after i seen the. Gap between tabs. Its just as easy and instesd of soldering onto speaker terminals i will just put quick connects to slip onto its connections.

I am getting soo excited to do this!!!

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
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  #122  
Old 01-21-2017, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
I was thinking the same after i seen the. Gap between tabs. Its just as easy and instesd of soldering onto speaker terminals i will just put quick connects to slip onto its connections.

I am getting soo excited to do this!!!

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
Dang! Wish I had thought of that! But I was happy practicing my soldering skills!

In retrospect, that sounds like an excellent idea and saves two solder actions per speaker.



Mike
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Last edited by semcoinc; 01-22-2017 at 12:42 AM.
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  #123  
Old 01-22-2017, 12:20 AM
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Have I told you a$$holes (and of course, I mean that in the absolute lovey-dovey-est way possible).. Have I told you people that you suck? Every damn one of ya I tell ya!

I'm telling my wife it is 100% your collective fault. So there. And you don't want her mad, either. Not at you. Believe me.

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  #124  
Old 01-22-2017, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by PropellerHead View Post
Have I told you a$$holes (and of course, I mean that in the absolute lovey-dovey-est way possible).. Have I told you people that you suck? Every damn one of ya I tell ya!

I'm telling my wife it is 100% your collective fault. So there. And you don't want her mad, either. Not at you. Believe me.


Nice tool!!!
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  #125  
Old 01-22-2017, 11:29 AM
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^have had that solder gun myself for a few years now.

SemcoMike (since there are 2 Mikes in here) - excellent pics of the JL install! I am debating whether to do quick connects or solder small lengths of speaker wire on the woofers myself.

So on the tweeters you just glued them in place in the factory foam mount and did not need to reuse the plastic mount correct? Should eliminate a potential source of rattles.

Also, very interesting that the woofers were 2ohm. Wonder if the rear woofers are also 2ohm? If so, our theories are out the window as we were assuming we were doubling impedance on 10 speakers and we may only be doing that on 6, and yet halving the impedance on 4 so the amp should not be taxed much more at all. And since these drivers are more efficient no worries there.

I'll get the rear midrange sizes up for you shortly with a few pics.
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  #126  
Old 01-22-2017, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
^have had that solder gun myself for a few years now.

SemcoMike (since there are 2 Mikes in here) - excellent pics of the JL install! I am debating whether to do quick connects or solder small lengths of speaker wire on the woofers myself.

So on the tweeters you just glued them in place in the factory foam mount and did not need to reuse the plastic mount correct? Should eliminate a potential source of rattles.

Also, very interesting that the woofers were 2ohm. Wonder if the rear woofers are also 2ohm? If so, our theories are out the window as we were assuming we were doubling impedance on 10 speakers and we may only be doing that on 6, and yet halving the impedance on 4 so the amp should not be taxed much more at all. And since these drivers are more efficient no worries there.

I'll get the rear midrange sizes up for you shortly with a few pics.
Hi RB,

After the fact, I like the idea of using the supplied slide on connectors on the speaker terminals and a short length of wire soldered to the more robust factory mount housing.

Yes, correct, I just glued the JL tweeters into the foam and eliminated the complete factory mounting frame and factory tweeter assembly. I did use one of the supplied JL housings for the JL tweeter to fit into and fit more snugly into the foam. You can see that I used the housing with the flared edge.

And yes, the factory tweeters are 8 ohm so the JLs take that pair to 4ohm.

Mike
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  #127  
Old 01-22-2017, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by PropellerHead View Post
Well... They work.. I think the rattle is from the fact that the sub enclosure isn't installed. Unsure what I think ab this for now.
I'm still not confident that the rattle will go away, but today was the day to break in the new soldering iron. I haven't soldered alone in a couple decades, and I'd never done it even once before that. So, I am anxious to let the gobs of silicon set in over the generous application of foam weather stripping. I *know* it looks like ass, but I've never been particularly passionate about clean silicon, either. Besides, this whole exercise is more about function than form. If this works as sounds OK, I'll send it to someone to test here for the cost of shipping. If that works out ok, I'll ask to recover the ~$50 in cost of speakers and their OEM sub and I'll do it again- for someone else. Maybe at some point, I'll get better at silicon.



GOBS o' silicon!

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  #128  
Old 01-22-2017, 09:04 PM
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Gotcha Prop, no worries on cosmetics.

I just finished a minor amplifier tune on my X retrofitted DSP sub with factory woofers to blend in with the new JL front door set up. They sound OK to me but then again, I've not heard other systems so I'm anxious to hear about from others on how they Pyles sound.

I believe those are 6" correct?

Mike
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  #129  
Old 01-22-2017, 09:40 PM
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Alright boys well it looks like the exact diameter is definitely 65mm for the rear midranges if you want them to clip into the mount. About 2.5" exactly.

If you go with 2.25 or 2" I would imagine you could hot glue/silicone then in place easily (as Prop did with his tweeters)

About 1.25" inches in depth -

Hope that helps - I didn't get to get my Memphis midranges in these weekend but hopefully during the week. And now I'm super pumped to do my JL components in the front doors after seeing what semco Mike did - excellent work!
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  #130  
Old 01-22-2017, 09:47 PM
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As a follow up, those Peerless midranges should be perfect fit, about 1/4" more depth (don't think it will be a problem -

The diameter is spot on though and you may have to file the housing a bit but I would imagine it could clip right in as the diameter is exactly the same (65mm) as what it would be replacing
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