You people suck. 12 years later, I finally replace speakers.

[Clockwork]

Sadly I have induced a rattle in drivers door that I only hear when deep frequency plays with no other (like a piano key). I noticed it before putting door cards back on but it's odd. The left most screw area is the reverberation area. So if I pressing on that area it goes away but there is only so much I can tighten the screw. I may have to look at inside the door (window regulator area). Ugh.

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[Ricky Bobby]

Mike I'm really glad you liked your JL C2/Fountek upgrade!

With 12-13 year old door panels and such I would expect to want to do some sound deadening, even without upgrading my speakers, just over the years and taking the door panels off a few times I notice the occasional rattle on mine. I am probably going to get some GTMat like Prop and either do the inside of the door panels or put it on some areas of the door skin when I do my door speakers.

Also take a look at the area where the door panel meets the sail panel of the tweeter - I had a bit of a rattle there and stuck a piece of sticky felt on the sail panel in that spot before I put my door panel back on last time and it actually helped a lot -

[semcoinc]

I am equally pleased with the C2 woofers and tweeters in the front doors of my E53. No rattles detected.

The TR series JL woofers are doing a very respectable job in the E46 front doors and rear deck. A very tight fit to the E46 front door without cutting any sheet metal.

Speaking of rattles, I was tuning the E46 system (OE HK set up in sedan) with my upgrades yesterday and picked up a buzz/rattle in the HK subwoofer 6x9 on the driver side. I suspect it may be a fractured foam like I found in the 15 year old mid ranges and these factory 6x9s are the last OE speakers remaining in the car.



So, for $30 I have a set of Pyle PLSL6902 coming to make the speaker replacement upgrade complete. The factory mounting housing looks to be about 2.25" deep and these have a depth of 2.125" so really looks to be the right fitment.

Pyle PLSL6902 6"X9" Slim Mount Speaker 2-Way Coaxial W/ 1" Voice Coil & Tweeter 68888743082 | eBay



Mike

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

With 12-13 year old door panels and such I would expect to want to do some sound deadening, even without upgrading my speakers, just over the years and taking the door panels off a few times I notice the occasional rattle on mine.

RB, I'm lucky to say I've only ever er had the door panels off twice before this speaker install. For a new door handle and new window clips (both done within last 8 months). I never had any rattles from factory woofers. And I only get them now with certain frequencies. Door is still quite with stereo off and driving so nothing else rattles from road vibration thank god). Oh well time to take door panel off for a 4th time (but in no major rush). The mids and tweeters have me in music heaven. Even my SiriusXM radio sound quality has improved and that was my main objective. Music from my GROM or CD player (ewww what's that) sound great but even brighter now.

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[Ricky Bobby]

Just adding this as I'm doing DSP amp research into a solution that one can keep the factory enclosure and DSP amp happy, while upgrading the factory subwoofers in the rear of the E53 to something of a bit better quality construction -

Bob Hazelwood of Cambridge Soundworks and ADS fame writes...
"...the DSP amplifier uses a series of Philips chip amplifiers which are actually pretty good . There are four woofer channels feeding the two dual voice coil woofers. Each of these channels can produce 40W RMS into 8-Ohms at low distortion."


Based on that I am guessing the key is to try to find DVC subs as replacements (as Prop found out with his Pyles!) and not single voice coil


Although I have limited wiring experience, if you have 8ohm, SVC subs, you would hook them up to only use one channel on each sub (can you do that?) -

For example these Dayton woofers I referenced are 30W RMS so if you hook up each sub to 2 channels of the factory wiring, yes you would have 2 unused subwoofer channels compared to the factory setup, but you would still be well within factory wattage per channel and keeping impedance the same (I think)

Everything I'm reading says that if you take the + and - connections of a DVC and wire them together (parallel?) to go to a SVC sub replacement, you'd be cutting impedance by double, so a 2ohm load? Which would not be healthy on the amp I believe -

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm theorizing.

[semcoinc]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Everything I'm reading says that if you take the + and - connections of a DVC and wire them together (parallel?) to go to a SVC sub replacement, you'd be cutting impedance by double, so a 2ohm load? Which would not be healthy on the amp I believe -

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm theorizing.

This is the way I have connected my OE DSP sub to an aftermarket sub amp. All four (+) wired together and all four (-) wired together to a single speaker termination block.





My one sub output channel is split into two (L + R) going into the amp



and the mono amp feeds the one speaker termination mod on my OE DSP Sub.

Sounds good to me, but I am open to electrical input from the group on this set up as to the wiring route I have taken on the OE DSP sub.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

[Ricky Bobby]

Hmmmm, interesting - I'm wondering what kind of impedance that gives you - I guess I have to see how the stock subs are wired in my DSP setup from the factory to the factory amp -

Just theorizing, but based on the limited wiring I am taking in, if I take single voice coil replacements that are 4ohm and wire them up I can make the impedance the amp reads into an 8ohm load which would (technically) be how its set up from the factory (I think)

[semcoinc]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Hmmmm, interesting - I'm wondering what kind of impedance that gives you - I guess I have to see how the stock subs are wired in my DSP setup from the factory to the factory amp -

Just theorizing, but based on the limited wiring I am taking in, if I take single voice coil replacements that are 4ohm and wire them up I can make the impedance the amp reads into an 8ohm load which would (technically) be how its set up from the factory (I think)

Not sure if this image of an OE DSP sub connector is any help in understanding????







Mike

[Ricky Bobby]

Glad you liked the mids Mike! You seem to have a good ear for audio so I am very much impressed to hear how much of a difference you are hearing

And SemcoMike thank you for posting those pics of the DSP amp, most helpful indeed, I will be doing more research and hopefully I can find a solution that doesn't take much modification, and can be wired up easily to keep the OEM DSP amp happy -

[semcoinc]

RB,

It looks like each channel of the DSP sub is receiving a separate channel from the amp, given the four twisted pair wiring connections

Mike