My 2005 X5 Aftermarket Radio Install Thread - Page 45

lo_jack · #**441** 11-14-2017, 03:38 PM

I just went through this whole thread. 1) This is an awesome project, 2)you've had some strange luck.

Let me ask you some questions about the solar side-project:

I have a 30w monocrystalline panel, a battery isolator and a charge controller. Can you maglock the panel to the charge controller and hardwire the charge controller to the BMW, or should you put the maglock at the end of the entire charge circuit after the controller (will that even work)? It looks like to ran the receiving end of the maglock to the battery positive and the negative stud in the engine bay, but could you not run it to ground and straight to the battery in the rear?

I'd like to run TWO batteries, and be able to draw current off the non-starting battery, but remove the panel when not needed (as you probably move it around from car to car).

BCReds battery disconnect idea is great, but where he put it is not for me. Totally agree on the main-line battery disconnectors that live ON the battery being a super pain in the butt, but they are more direct and make you feel really sure about their operation.

Final question back on topic, how much did that whole thing run you, in the end?

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Crowz · #**442** 11-14-2017, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lo_jack

I just went through this whole thread. 1) This is an awesome project, 2)you've had some strange luck.

Let me ask you some questions about the solar side-project:

I have a 30w monocrystalline panel, a battery isolator and a charge controller. Can you maglock the panel to the charge controller and hardwire the charge controller to the BMW, or should you put the maglock at the end of the entire charge circuit after the controller (will that even work)? It looks like to ran the receiving end of the maglock to the battery positive and the negative stud in the engine bay, but could you not run it to ground and straight to the battery in the rear?

I'd like to run TWO batteries, and be able to draw current off the non-starting battery, but remove the panel when not needed (as you probably move it around from car to car).

BCReds battery disconnect idea is great, but where he put it is not for me. Totally agree on the main-line battery disconnectors that live ON the battery being a super pain in the butt, but they are more direct and make you feel really sure about their operation.

Final question back on topic, how much did that whole thing run you, in the end?

Cost wise on the solar part that charges the cars is as follows :

$20 solar controller

$8 per timer that switches the batteries out. One needed per vehicle ideally.

$100 in cable. I have a bunch of wire run all over the place mostly buried.

$50 per magloc magcode connector set (one end for vehicle one end for cable) The ones I just put on vehicles was $30 I think.

$100 for 2 panels that I think are 30 watts each wired in parallel. So 60 watts total.

60 watts is enough to maintain the cars. I would prefer to have 100 watts but I used left over panels from when I first started tinkering with the solar stuff.

My house panels are 255 watts each. But that would be horrible overkill to maintain the cars.

You need the controller on the outside of vehicle and I recommend the duo controller since it has two leads to charge two batteries at once.

The reason for this is to have one lead on a battery at all times. You can damage a solar controller if you disconnect the load side while the panels are still connected. So at any given time one load is still on the solar controller when I disconnect a vehicle to use it.

Also the controllers are not water proof so putting them under the hood is asking for it to fail. As for fuses just a normal inline 10 amp or less fuse is fine since your not jump starting with the magcode plugs just charging the battery.

I haven't done a battery disconnect on the X5. I may one day but so far I haven't.

Crowz · #**443** 11-14-2017, 08:28 PM

Oh and the reason I put the magcode front has to do with how I park the X5. I pull in towards the house to park and back out to leave. I didn't want to back over the connector if I forget to unplug it. It will pull off on its own when I back out if I forget it and where I put it keeps me from driving over it.

The back would be fine if that's where you want to put it. You can even have multiple connectors if needed and plug in where ever is convenient based on how you park.

Crowz · #**444** 11-14-2017, 08:29 PM

Ok who got what installed radio wise while I was napping ?

bcredliner · #**445** 11-15-2017, 12:25 AM

I have aftermarket amp and subwoofer and speakers.

Where is the white wire in the rear? I tried connecting 20 to amp, no sound.

Crowz · #**446** 11-15-2017, 03:18 AM

Your amp should have red, black and usually blue wires for power, ground and activation (turns the amp on). Positive 12 volts applied to the activation wire turns the amp on. Plug 20 on the radio supplies the positive 12 volts to turn the amp on via the activation wire. What amp do you have and I will pull the diagram for it to see what it has for wires and plugs?

bcredliner · #**447** 11-15-2017, 06:46 PM

When I installed the sub and amp I ran a trigger wire from the amp to the existing connector purple and white wire. I don't remember why but amp has always worked fine. The existing connector is now plugged into the Seicane main connector. I have tried running a wire from 20 to the amp trigger in place of the wire I spliced to trigger the amp but am getting no sound either way.

Crowz · #**448** 11-15-2017, 06:49 PM

Running from plug 20 to the same spot you had the trigger wire for the amp already with everything hooked up as it was should give you sound.

You can also use plug 1 as it does basically the same thing but its for the power antenna but should work fine for this too.

Also just applying your own 12 volt power wire to where the amp's trigger wire was already at should give sound if nothing is wrong with the old system.

bcredliner · #**449** 11-15-2017, 07:39 PM

I checked and the wire from 20 to amp does turn trigger the amp but no sound.

Two RCA connections go from AB input on amp to red and white wires on the converter switch. The purple and green wires are spliced into the blue, yellow and 2 brown wires that are coming from the NAV unit. These splices were part of the aftermarket amp and subwoofer install. The amp is an Elemental Designs NINe.2. I've had it many years and may not be what I need for the new system. I assume the connector with the cut wires went to the original sub.

Crowz · #**450** 11-15-2017, 07:57 PM

Ok your install is unique since you have your own amp.

How many speakers are driven by this amp? Is it a sub woofer only or does it run all the speakers?

If it runs all the speakers your home free but you need a cable. Your going to need an rca cable long enough to go from the headunit to the amp. Once you plug that in you will have sound.

If the amp only runs the sub then things are different. I'll wait on a response.

If you are running all the speakers with this amp Im guessing you didn't have front to back fading? Just left to right adjustments?

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