What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[andrewwynn]

Ouch on the accidental toss. I have a similar ouch: I cut my leaky original intake boot in three pieces to remove it then shortly after discover that rather than a flex pipe with corrugation the cheap knock off boot I bought just had ribs on the outside making it kink vs. bend around the tight corner!

Superglue got my boot Frankensteind back together while I waited on an OEM boot. Don't think sg will solve your ouch.


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[Salty B.]

Replaced left headlight with an eBay part after trying about ten times to re-seal the old one (kept getting water in it after lens replacement). Drove about 400mi to start the camper season. Threw a "P1620 - Map Cooling Thermostat Control Circuit Signal High" code a few times but temp gauge is dead center so I will check the t-stat wire connection later, also tossed in a "P0172 System Too Rich Bank 1" code, whatever that means. Cleared em and they have yet to come back. So far.

Old bitch endured a torrential thunderstorm Sunday night that produced tornadoes nearby and I was worried about a sunroof leak as I haven't yet snaked out the drains, but it did't leak at all. Gotta take the little wins!

[80stech]

"Map cooling thermostat" is probably the thermostat heater as you are suspecting but if you didn't re-code the temp gauge the difference won't show up. The reason the temp gauge has the wide span at center is so that it doesn't move up and down when the thermostat heater (map cooling) is working properly. If the connection is corroded at the thermostat then likely it's leaking a bit and you should probably replace the stat as well.

[Salty B.]

Originally Posted by 80stech

"Map cooling thermostat" is probably the thermostat heater as you are suspecting but if you didn't re-code the temp gauge the difference won't show up. The reason the temp gauge has the wide span at center is so that it doesn't move up and down when the thermostat heater (map cooling) is working properly. If the connection is corroded at the thermostat then likely it's leaking a bit and you should probably replace the stat as well.

Checked where the sensor taps into the t-stat and no leaks detected... it's pretty intermittent. It does rotate a little. Unsure if that's normal.

[Salty B.]

Unsure where to post this 4.6is I found on hemmings... looks decent for the price.

https://www.hemmings.com/auction/200...mico-wi-507910

[EODguy]

I picked up my next set of suspension parts (6 months or less) till refresh times and got the Witch a cleaned....

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[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by EODguy

I picked up my next set of suspension parts (6 months or less) till refresh times and got the Witch a cleaned....

At least you never have to worry about corrosion seized parts? If we're looking for a bright side...

[andrewwynn]

That's awesome!

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

At least you never have to worry about corrosion seized parts? If we're looking for a bright side...

True, but that could also be from changing suspension components more than tires at a Nascar race....

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[Bdc101]

I got the missing parts and put my E53 back together after replacing the idle control valve, MAF, DISA and the intake boot. All brand new parts (VEMO, VDO and Rein).



I had to take it apart and put it back together after it idled high. After I put it together the second time it idles well at about 950rpm, but it throws "idle speed plausibility" codes instantly every time. It doesn't illuminate on the dash, but the Foxwell picks it up.





I logged data on the foxwell and the idle speed is pretty stable at about 950rpm. When I active-test it, it seems to work correctly (the test is to increase idle speed to 1500 rpm which it does). When I turn the AC on it goes down to about 850 rpm. However it seems like it is pretty solid other than that.



I haven't driven it much, only around the driveway and started it three or four times and idled it for a while. I'll test drive it later today. Anyone else know if this is a symptom of something else broken?