What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Salty B.

Noticed a trail of oil drips followed me into work... friggin filter cap o-ring bulged out after torquing it to (as it's printed right on it) 25nm. Fixed it in the parking lot after serendipitously finding a 36mm combo wrench in a random tool chest. Lost about 1/2 liter after driving about 20mi yesterday oblivious to the problem post-oil change and failed to notice generous parking spot oilage this morning on departure.

I had a buddy change my oil I think either he forgot to change the o-ring or the one that came with the filter sucked and I had the same thing happen. Wow that made a mess. Didn't realize for a day or two lost a quart.


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[X5chemist]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Only rotate if you see wear indictive of such. EG fronts usually wear from under steer on the outside and if rear suspension worn it'll chew up the inside edges. Swwp front n back can share the pain but if you have inside wear on the back get the ball joints changed that cause it.

The suspension rebuild eliminated all tire wear. 5000k miles and no sign of wear. I did bend an ebay tool replacing the rose ball joints. Arms and other parts are new too. I'll measure the inside rear tread. The fronts are nice and flat wearing.

[andrewwynn]

No call on rotating then. BMW officially says don't do it.

Wife's F10 developed terrible cupping the rear tires looked hexagonal by the time we replaced. I was certain the rear bearings went until I raised the car to spin and stethoscope the wheels.

Spun the wheel only to see the peaks and valleys go by! Yikes!

[Salty B.]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I had a buddy change my oil I think either he forgot to change the o-ring or the one that came with the filter sucked and I had the same thing happen. Wow that made a mess. Didn't realize for a day or two lost a quart.

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It's still drippin... I didn't lose THAT much! I guess the belly pan needs to sloooowly drain it out. I should go stick a pig mat under it again.

[Henn28]

My “new” eBay drivers side door card was delivered today. Exciting stuff as it’s in very good shape and all the plastic bits are still glued on. I will clean the leather and swap it out for my busted up drivers side door panel. I’ve been looking for both front cards for some time now and jumped at it when one in tan popped up.

I ordered a new crank position sensor today. I read recently that a CPS must be properly gapped if the flex plate is changed. Since I put my old flex plate on the new motor, I figured this was worth revisiting. I’ve been meaning to change the CPS anyway since it’s 22 years old and I read this is a showstopper when it fails. An easy change and a cheap part. Bentley has the procedures to properly measure and gap it.

I also got the results of a Blackstone oil analysis. My second in 14k on the motor. They are an interesting read, but I’m not sure if I’m qualified to draw any lasting conclusions. I suppose if certain numbers were really out of whack it could be super helpful in narrowing down what to look at before the motor grenades itself.

[andrewwynn]

I was confused. CPS is cam position sensor. CKP is crank position.

Yep when that fails you can't start because the car will have no idea when to fire the spark or I suppose fuel.

Definitely measure and gap/shim. They are stupidly sensitive. They can detect how much the rotation slows between power strokes with enough detail to know when a cylinder didn't put out the power expected of it so they are extremely sensitive to the bumps on the reluctor. That tech amazes me

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I was confused. CPS is cam position sensor. CKP is crank position.

Yep when that fails you can't start because the car will have no idea when to fire the spark or I suppose fuel.

Definitely measure and gap/shim. They are stupidly sensitive. They can detect how much the rotation slows between power strokes with enough detail to know when a cylinder didn't put out the power expected of it so they are extremely sensitive to the bumps on the reluctor. That tech amazes me

My 650cc single-cylinder BMW (Rotax engined) motorcycle has a similar sensor/function - the crank position sensor can detect the differences between a compression stroke and an exhaust stroke and the BMS-C uses this to figure the ignition timing at start-up. Unsurprisingly, it takes a few revolutions to fire when starting!

And of course, INPA can even show the rotational conformity, at least it can on the M57TU diesel.



Amazing tech, all right!!

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I was confused. CPS is cam position sensor. CKP is crank position.

Yep when that fails you can't start because the car will have no idea when to fire the spark or I suppose fuel.

Definitely measure and gap/shim. They are stupidly sensitive. They can detect how much the rotation slows between power strokes with enough detail to know when a cylinder didn't put out the power expected of it so they are extremely sensitive to the bumps on the reluctor. That tech amazes me

That is amazing. I assumed they simply allowed the DME to count rpm. CKP…good info. Sounds like there are different types too? Something called a Hall sensor, and an older tech?

I put two new cam sensors in the new motor, but reused the old Crank sensor for some reason.

[80stech]

Actually it's the DME that measures the time between power strokes, the crank sensor can only report the position of the crank.

[andrewwynn]

If the rpm was exactly smooth the ckp generates a waveform with exact periodicity. When a cylinder fires weak or strong the timing will be off from the anticipated average and the computer can make adjustments or register an error.