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#91
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Now the first set back: I just finished a putting together a cardboard template of the subwoofer box according to dimensions. I chose the 11.0 cm dimension instead of the 13.5 cm one. That part made for a perfect fit! I ran into trouble with the rigid box-shaped design of the back upper section of the subwoofer box, the 28cm x 27cm x 4-1/2" section. It did not want to go into that contoured cavity plus the fact that there is a brake light connector that just protudes enough to further hinder this cardboard installation....Now I see why the factory/after market subwoofer enclosures are contoured as they are! Well, it's back to the drawing board to reduce the dimensions of that upper-back section somewhat and try again..... Did anyone else initially encounter this problem? |
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#92
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did you pull out the fuse box 1st.........
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#93
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#94
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I used clamps to get the front panel attached to the sides. Ran a screw in here and there to just hold it together to see how it fit. Once you even loosely attach the front panel, everything is at nice right angles and you will have no problem with that. Then I put all the screws in, assembled it all, then took it apart, applied the construction adhesive to one panel at a time and then screwed it together and went on to the next panel and did the same. I have a Bosch impact type driver and I wish I had one a long time ago. So superior for assy work. I forget the adhesive's brand name, got it at a local lumber yard. You can find construction adhesive in every hardware store. I bought the expensive brand because it cost only $1 more, so why not? Liquid Nails is a popular brand name, but I was used to the other brands from rebuilding my house. I used Spax brand MDF screws. This is a German brand, so your X won't reject them. Spax screws of every sort are really nice, so if you do woodwork try to find a local source. OSH carries them around here. They do not require pre-drilling except at the ends of the "bottom" parts, where the threads are. In those areas you should pre-drill as well as through the small part at the step area between the top and bottom of the box. A jigsaw is fine for this. Some care, a nice line to follow, a good work surface and all is well. The hole doesn't show, but it is always good to do neat work. In volume, or for a visible hole you would want to use a router with a circle guide. Use one if you have one. I bought those half-sheets of MDF for a staggering $15! There is enough for at least two boxes. If you screw up, then cut another piece. Sure, I'll build them for less! Shipping might be too high, though. |
#95
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They have so many there but I am not sure which ones to use with this setup. Thanks. |
#96
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....but, yes, I unbolted the white fuse box before attempting the install. I did make the 28cm dimension (of the upper-back section in question) to 28.2cm, though, but everything else to spec. I'll get back out there and post my results...... |
#97
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What should be a "normal" price for the power kit (cable, fuse, etc)?
I found one at Circuit City(going out of business) for around $40.00 Is that a good price? Do I really need it? |
#98
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Hey Essam ...
I ordered the amp & speaker and have a question. This enclosure doesn't require an opening because of the actual speaker design? Also, I have DSP so I guess I'll contact you later about wiring - when I'm closer to actually starting this project. |
#99
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Man..... everyone is doing this Mod , thanks to Essam, ![]() there were other DIY sub mods posted on X5 world but those members would not share ![]() ![]() |
#100
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![]() BTW ... smokin avatar! ![]() |
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