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  #91  
Old 01-23-2009, 10:16 AM
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Thanx Essam! Do you do a lot of highway driving/travelling there in your X5!

Now the first set back: I just finished a putting together a cardboard template of the subwoofer box according to dimensions. I chose the 11.0 cm dimension instead of the 13.5 cm one. That part made for a perfect fit!

I ran into trouble with the rigid box-shaped design of the back upper section of the subwoofer box, the 28cm x 27cm x 4-1/2" section. It did not want to go into that contoured cavity plus the fact that there is a brake light connector that just protudes enough to further hinder this cardboard installation....Now I see why the factory/after market subwoofer enclosures are contoured as they are!

Well, it's back to the drawing board to reduce the dimensions of that upper-back section somewhat and try again.....

Did anyone else initially encounter this problem?
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  #92  
Old 01-23-2009, 10:55 AM
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did you pull out the fuse box 1st.........
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  #93  
Old 01-23-2009, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Essam Khafagi
You dont want to know

Price per litre is 0.16$ for unleaded 95 Octane and 0.12$ for unleaded 91 Octane ... this is the ONLY good thing about living in Saudi Arabia
Also you don't have to worry about the Cold weather
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  #94  
Old 01-23-2009, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5-limo
I wouldn't blame you because you definitely came up with a winner here!

I now have the 'infamous' 10" Pioneer TS TW251 subwoofer after first buying a 10" JL Audio 10w 1v2-4 (which required too much volume for the X5 subwoofer enclosure).

Carlgo: What thickness MDF (in inches ) did you buy? Are you using the two different thicknesses - one for front and back and a smaller thickness for the sides?

I think you can order a (4-pin molex) Alpine amp connector from their parts distributor: Melissa Marin
http://webmaila.netzero.net/webmail/...ntent=central# (Customer Service Representative) of
PacParts, Inc.

(800)421-5080 Ext. 154 - (800)782-5747 Fax

She'll take care of you!

Question, are there any tips you can pass on to us first time 'cabinet makers'? Audio installers around here want to charge $200-$250 to build this box so I've decided to tackle this myself....

(1) After we cut the boards, how do we hold the 90 degree angles together when we attach the sides toform the box?

(2) Do we both glue and screw the boards together at the same time?

(3) What brands of wood putty(?) and screws did you buy from Home Depot?

(4) I have one of those 10" table saws but what type of machine is needed to make the 23.8 cm speaker hole?
I used 3/4 MDF for the sides and 1/2 for the front and back. I did do a write-up of this in this thread.

I used clamps to get the front panel attached to the sides. Ran a screw in here and there to just hold it together to see how it fit. Once you even loosely attach the front panel, everything is at nice right angles and you will have no problem with that. Then I put all the screws in, assembled it all, then took it apart, applied the construction adhesive to one panel at a time and then screwed it together and went on to the next panel and did the same. I have a Bosch impact type driver and I wish I had one a long time ago. So superior for assy work.

I forget the adhesive's brand name, got it at a local lumber yard. You can find construction adhesive in every hardware store. I bought the expensive brand because it cost only $1 more, so why not? Liquid Nails is a popular brand name, but I was used to the other brands from rebuilding my house.

I used Spax brand MDF screws. This is a German brand, so your X won't reject them. Spax screws of every sort are really nice, so if you do woodwork try to find a local source. OSH carries them around here.

They do not require pre-drilling except at the ends of the "bottom" parts, where the threads are. In those areas you should pre-drill as well as through the small part at the step area between the top and bottom of the box.

A jigsaw is fine for this. Some care, a nice line to follow, a good work surface and all is well. The hole doesn't show, but it is always good to do neat work. In volume, or for a visible hole you would want to use a router with a circle guide. Use one if you have one.

I bought those half-sheets of MDF for a staggering $15! There is enough for at least two boxes. If you screw up, then cut another piece.

Sure, I'll build them for less! Shipping might be too high, though.
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  #95  
Old 01-23-2009, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5-limo
Thanx for that, 'How to make a hole' tip! That pushes me off the starting line!

We can all help each other by sharing our steps:

I'll be installing my subwoofer box into my '01 X5 w/ Premium Sound-DSP and NAV & 6-changer CD: I'm going to try to follow Essam's wiring route but I'll post or answer questions as best as I can.

I would like pointers on all the steps that go into the constructing of the subwoofer box.

Besides butt connectors, speaker wire, pipe strapping, sheet metal screws, washers, electrical and duct tape and zip ties and that small 4-pin, box-shaped white plastic input line Alpine MRP M350 amp connector that can be ordered, I'm also going to use a '4 / 8 ga. AGU In-line waterproof Fuse Holder', a 'Hi/Low Impedance Adaptor RCA to line' and a pkg of '24k gold Ring terminals'.....all ordered from ebay.
Can you please post your eBay link where you got the power cables from.
They have so many there but I am not sure which ones to use with this setup. Thanks.
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  #96  
Old 01-23-2009, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepless
Also you don't have to worry about the Cold weather
....ha-ha-ha, yeah, I was going to mention that, too! Here we, (I), am in -25F wind chill weather (last week), snow almost up to my knees and having to 'raj(garage) the X5 for fear of corrosion from the salt slush on our snow-frozen roads and not wanting to push my luck of experiencing a plugged oil-separator.....but why remind Essam of those things Hi-hi-hi

....but, yes, I unbolted the white fuse box before attempting the install. I did make the 28cm dimension (of the upper-back section in question) to 28.2cm, though, but everything else to spec. I'll get back out there and post my results......
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  #97  
Old 01-23-2009, 04:06 PM
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What should be a "normal" price for the power kit (cable, fuse, etc)?
I found one at Circuit City(going out of business) for around $40.00 Is that a good price? Do I really need it?
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  #98  
Old 01-23-2009, 04:34 PM
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Hey Essam ...

I ordered the amp & speaker and have a question. This enclosure doesn't require an opening because of the actual speaker design? Also, I have DSP so I guess I'll contact you later about wiring - when I'm closer to actually starting this project.
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  #99  
Old 01-23-2009, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa
Hey Essam ...

I ordered the amp & speaker and have a question. This enclosure doesn't require an opening because of the actual speaker design? Also, I have DSP so I guess I'll contact you later about wiring - when I'm closer to actually starting this project.
No you do not want to port out this box ......... sorry Essam I know by now you are probably asleep ......

Man..... everyone is doing this Mod , thanks to Essam,

there were other DIY sub mods posted on X5 world but those members would not share the detail information (box dim) .... but who cares we have Essam now...
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  #100  
Old 01-23-2009, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepless
No you do not want to port out this box ......... sorry Essam I know by now you are probably asleep ......
Thanks sleepless!

BTW ... smokin avatar!
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